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It’s 3 o’clock in Dubbo Catholic Mission, Ethiopia. Outside the air is steamy and hot. Inside the health clinic, I am trying to be innovative, creative and funny in teaching English, begging for an active class participation and questions. Imagine my frustration when Tedelech, a nurse, says to me, “Instead of wasting our time asking questions, why don’t you just tell us the answer?” On another occasion with the same class, I was dispelling the myths of the English language, when Alfort, another nurse, yells out to me (in barely understandable English), “You speak poorly and you’re teaching us incorrectly!” These two quotes sum up my frustrating moments as an English teacher in a totally different culture! Primarily, I was in the MSC mission to teach six courses of English. But, I also tried to be flexible and do whatever was needed in the mission. Twice a week, I worked in the MCH outpost program with Sr. Francesca. With the collaboration of Brenda Ruth, an ex-CMC volunteer in Swaziland, now director of Habitat for Humanity in Ethiopia, we were able to commence the housing project in the area in conjunction with some motivated locals. I did some administrative work. I visited the sick, and I did a lot of transportation.
After only three months in Ethiopia, it is difficult to come to a conclusion about the status of the country. I am left with still many unanswered questions as I try to get a grasp of its culture, traditions, and customs. Ethiopia can be viewed as a model of preservation or a severe case of backwardness. I am often torn between these two points of view as I reflect upon my brief experience in this third world nation.
Ethiopia’s long preservation is seen in its untouched, undisturbed, and gorgeous landscape. The vivid green color, the glorious mountains, the rich and fertile soils are all astounding. Agricultural practices, crop rotation, the traditional homes (tuculs) and food preparation in southern Ethiopia have been undisturbed for centuries. Much of Ethiopia has stood still throughout the course of time, unaffected by foreign influence and power.
Ethiopia’s government does not help to effect change. In fact, it appears to have a total disregard for its country and people. At the conclusion of the war with Eritrea, many believed that changes were going to be implemented throughout the country as it entered a new phase of hope and optimism. What a delusion that must have been! Fr. Angelo and Fr. Pacifico, two Italian Capuchin priests who have dedicated their lives to the mission in Ethiopia, have become discouraged with Ethiopia’s present lack of progress and claim it has never been worse. For example, in April, the government had severe clashes with its university students in Addis Ababa. The students were asking for the restoration of the university newspaper and the removal of the military presence from its campuses. The government refused and violence broke out. Thirty-eight students were killed and thousands were sent to prison. Sr. John, Ashenafi, one of the men from the clinic, and I were witnesses to a terrifying moment! Outside the university, we saw students with books under their arms fleeing from soldiers firing machine guns. At first, I froze as I saw the people panicking, closing up their shops, running around, and the traffic fleeing from the area. We were barely able to escape down a side street ourselves. Since the violence in April of this year, the university classes have been suspended, and many remain pessimistic about the reopening of the university.
The current government cleverly displays a democratic image but in fact, it is a political disguise that pleases foreign nations. The mass media is government controlled. The government sends out spies to infiltrate potential subversion groups and to root out all political complaints of ordinary citizens by automatically imprisoning thought-provoking Ethiopians. In addition, the government promotes the disunity of the Ethiopian nation by not supporting the idea of one national language. Amaric, the predominant language, is not taught in the schools. Instead, the government allows the eighty-two languages to flourish within the country so that it is easier to divide the people in order to control them more effectively.
The standard of health care in Ethiopia has plummeted. Here’s a typical example. In one family in Areka, a mile away from the Dubbo mission, Tesfaye, the father, died of malaria. Ayalech, the mother, battles elephantiasis with two hugely swollen legs. She has two sons that have been severely crippled by polio. Arja walks on his hands like a dog. Mengistu is not only crippled but he also suffers from mental problems. He refuses to wear clothing therefore, he is always found naked in the streets.
Mentally ill patients go untreated. In one such case, a boy named Marcos was chained by his ankles to a post in his hut. This was the family’s solution because they do not understand his disease; because of their poverty, this was the only possible therapy!
Ethiopian people are complex. Especially in southern Ethiopia, foreigners are not easily accepted into their culture. The service and help of others often are not appreciated. Many rural Ethiopians resist any new teachings and prefer to follow their culture despite the harm inflicted on women, children, and the weak. They are a proud people who will not ask for advice or help, but at the same time, many demand money, clothing and food from you. In public areas, even children can surround you, screaming “Franja, Franja!” (“White man”) pulling on your clothing, putting their hands in your pockets. In rural areas, the first expression that many Ethiopians learn in English is, “Give me money!”
One day, Sr. John asked me to teach Mikele and Ashenafi, two drivers at the clinic, how to drive better. During my lesson, I offered some suggestions on better ways to drive the cars in a relaxed, joking, and easy-going tone so that it would not seem offensive. Afterwards, Sr. Francesca overheard Ashenafi and Mikele, “This franja comes here, and now he’s already teaching us how to drive. What does he know?” With situations like this, I had to believe in what I was doing; that it was what God wanted and needed me to do. Therefore, I moved forward.
Due to the efforts of the Roman Catholic Church and CUAMM, the Italian non-governmental organization, our Maternal and Child Health Care Center on the mission in Dubbo is finally reaching full working capacity. With both in and out patient capabilities and fifty beds available, I think that it’s the best clinic of this type in Ethiopia and many Ethiopians agreed with me. However, it will be very difficult to maintain standards because of the lack of personnel. In addition, Fr. Angelo lamented, “Many work just to collect the paycheck; you wonder if they really care about the people.” Despite these difficulties, the sisters and priests keep giving of themselves, often with little return. Sr. John stated it best as she commented to me, “The reason that I am here and continue working in Dubbo, Ethiopia is because of my love of the poor.” Ethiopia was a true challenge that increased my tolerance level to new limits. I was confronted with another harsh reality in our world where the sisters and I struggled to find ways to help those in need. The focus of the mission has become human development and empowerment, developing the people through resources such as a health clinic, education, women’s promotion, the adoption program, and youth groups.
On May 28th, the current government of Ethiopia had its anniversary. Only a small minority celebrated and demonstrated throughout the country. It’s true that things are better socially than during the Marxist regime when soldiers used to cut off people’s skin and make them eat it and when mothers were forced to sing and dance on the bodies of their dead sons and daughters after they had been executed. Ethiopians have been through so much terror and trauma. One day, while we were talking about politics, Bekele, the reception clerk at the clinic, said to me, “We have no hope. This government and the state of the country are the best situations we have. Who can do it better? Why should we change it if we think that it could only get worse in the future?” The role of the Cabrinian family is to make a small contribution to the future of Ethiopia, to offer some realistic hope for modest human progress and peace, not dehumanizing poverty and terror.