Beautifully whitewashed with lilac trim and green-tiled fountains, Dar Soukaina is a tranquil haven in a hectic city.
This cosy riad has been renovated with a light touch - no heavy styling here, just spare whitewashed walls, smooth tadelakt (polished plaster) floors and nubby-textured natural fabrics.
The lack of extraneous detail may seem extreme but it's actually smart, since the nine high-ceilinged rooms are quite narrow and clutter-free aesthetic makes them seem more spacious. Little details like the pointy Islamic arches also help to lift it above the ordinary.
A new extension across the street is a bit more spacious and sumptuously kitted out in handsome dark woods and plush fabrics. Omar keeps the house running like clockwork and usually appears at breakfast or in the evening to see how you're getting along - he's a mine of local information and speaks English and French,
Non-smoking rooms: the terrace and the patio area are smoking friendly tough