By Adam Cutler

Santiago is an active, outwardly growing, and surprisingly metropolitan city. On a first look it is actually rather ugly with not much character, polluted airs, and not much to offer in terms of tourist attraction. However, after spending a lot of time wandering around many of the communas and streets of the city, I grew to learn that this is not the case. Santiago is a city with a lot of beauty, though it is hidden and one must look very hard to find it, but it is certainty there. One example is that without a doubt, Santiago has the best film scene of anywhere in the world that I know, even more so then large American cities.

In terms of tourist attraction, the most popular is San Cristobal. This is a large cerro in the middle of the city with a funicular taking you the top. It is here where one can appreciate how large in terms of area the city actually is, as well as polluted. San Cristobal also boats a large pool and a zoo as well as miles of walking and bike trails. Nearby is the smaller Santa Lucia, which is the old home to the military fortress of the same name. La Moneda, the capital is also another popular destination. With the exception of a smattering of mediocre museums (with the exception of the Museo Chileno de Arte PreColombino, which is fantastic) there is not much else with respect to outward invitations to a tourist.

However when delving deeper there is actually a lot of cultural diversity, which I feel is best, explained with the example of the Alameda, or the principal road, which essentially dissects the city at its core. Beginning in third world poverty and ending in first world riches. Disembarking one’s plane in the Pudahuel Airport is where anyone’s international journey will typically begin. This is also where the Alameda will begin as well. These areas are unfortunate to play host to some of the poorest and most unsafe areas in the city as the long and seemingly endless avenue proudly strides on into the old cultural center of Barrio Brasil. In fact, most nights the metros will not even stop at these stations such as Pila del Ganso. This neighborhood is home to the Brasilian Embassy, but I think this is about as Brasilian as it gets. In actuality, there are likely more Asian restaurants in this section than any other part of the city.

Before one realizes it, La Alameda arrives in the center as Estacion Central comes into view. This is the working class’s shopping district and always filled with eager crowds along with eager pickpockets. An interesting side note is that Chileans are notorious for being the best at this trade, and most of them have found a good living in faraway places such as Italy and benefiting from it. The actual city center could be indicated by the Paseo Ahumada (literally ‘smoked passageway’) which is a closed off street about 10 blocks long. Always bustling with people and ideal for any avid people watcher.

There is always a traditional band playing, a street artist, or a human statue, and a plethora of beggars looking for a way to make money in this city where unemployment, lack of education and jobs is a major problem. In the middle of Paseo Ahumada is Paseo Huerfanos (orphans passageway) which forms a sort of cross of cultural activity full of restaurants, museums, stores, cafes, and theaters of all sorts. Towards the end is the Plaza de Armas where people go to sit on many benches and chessboards to relax from the sometimes-sweltering heat. It is here were the Peruvians and Ecuadorians hang out amongst the multitude of pigeons, tourists, and locals alike. Beyond the Plaza de Armas is the Mercado Central, a thriving fish market that boasts the best and maybe cheapest seafood in the city. Beyond this is another large market where all sorts of food products can be bought for a buena oferta known as La Vega.

Across the street are the Paris y Londres barrios. These are a unique part of the city and South America for that matter which is literally out of 1930’s Europe with its cobbled-stoned streets and antique and well maintained houses. This area is also home to Chiles oldest church and more cultural areas such as one of the only areas where one can find used books. Moving on down the Alameda one will pass by Santa Lucia and the gypsies begging to read your palm or sell you their wares and into Plaza Italia. This is a large square where people will often gather for big city events like winning a football game of elections. Adjacent is Bella Vista, Santiago’s answer to Greenwich Village.

Next is the upper class communa Providencia. The streets suddenly become cleaner and the stores ritzier. These are upper-middle class neighborhoods, nice ethnic restaurants and stores as well as language schools. This is also where most of the Gringos reside and frequent the popular bar street Suecia. Also San Cristobal lies mostly in Providencia as well. Just to the South of Providencia lies Plaza Nunoa. . Plaza Nunoa is where the neo-hippies congregate around a growing bar, restaurant and theatre scene.

The next communas of Las Condes and Vitacura are as elite and ritzy as the upper class areas of New York or London or any other metropolitan area in the world. This is where the banks, and large business do their work and where the embassies and high-class restaurants reside. The streets are almost literally cleaned with a toothbrush. The further one moves towards the Cordillera, the more affluent the areas will get. In a sense this is Santiago, a city of extremes. In a 2.5 hour bus ride from Avenida de Bernando O’Higgins (Chile’s Liberator) to Providencia and 11 de Septiembre (the date of the Pinochet’s infamous coup de etat) to Apoquindo, the Alameda meanders through every class level imaginable. The principal metro line follows the Alameda most of the distance. Every part of these streets were bustling and filled with people on their own personal missions, yellow buses, black taxis, and more noise than anywhere else imaginable. However, one of the hidden beauties of Santiago is that if you walk maybe two blocks away from the hustle and bustle, you are in a quite suburb with birds chirping.

With over 40 communas Santiago has many different faces. This is exemplified not only by the class structure but by the architecture as well. One could denote what communa they were in just by the texture and consistency of the diverse sidewalks. The majority of the people reside in the Centro, La Florida, Maipu, Puente Alto and Penalolen. Santiago is the ultimate lesson on how not to judge a book by its cover. While I don’t know if I would like to call Santiago my permanent home, it is a great place to spend a period of one’s life, as there is so much to learn and know. Despite all of its negatives, I very much miss the city and hope to return one day.