{"id":237388,"date":"2018-04-30T09:22:14","date_gmt":"2018-04-30T09:22:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/an-insiders-guide-to-yerevan-armenias-dreamy-capital\/"},"modified":"2023-11-08T17:59:05","modified_gmt":"2023-11-08T17:59:05","slug":"en-insiders-guide-til-yerevan-armeniens-dr%c3%b8mmeagtige-hovedstad","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/da\/en-insiders-guide-til-yerevan-armeniens-dr%c3%b8mmeagtige-hovedstad\/","title":{"rendered":"En insiders guide til Yerevan – Armeniens dr\u00f8mmeagtige hovedstad"},"content":{"rendered":"

Jeg skal v\u00e6re \u00e6rlig – i lang tid vidste jeg ikke engang, hvordan man stavede til Yerevan, endsige at Armeniens maleriske hovedstad er spr\u00e6ngfyldt med kultur, avantgardekunst og velduftende traditionel mad. Mens flere og flere rejsende lokkes af sk\u00f8nheden i Kaukasus, synes Armenien stadig at flyve under radaren, hvilket g\u00f8r Yerevan til en opdagelsesrejsendes dr\u00f8m.<\/p>\n

Det bedste r\u00e5d, jeg kan give til at bes\u00f8ge Yerevan (udover at tage af sted s\u00e5 hurtigt som muligt f\u00f8r alle andre<\/em>), er at tale med alle, du m\u00f8der. Studerende, sikkerhedsvagter, taxachauff\u00f8rer og kunstnere var alle ivrige efter at hj\u00e6lpe mig, hvilket gjorde Yerevan til en af de mest g\u00e6stfrie byer, jeg nogensinde har bes\u00f8gt. Uanset om du backpacker alene eller med en partner, er en erfaren rejsende eller p\u00e5 din f\u00f8rste udlandsrejse, garanterer jeg, at du vil elske Yerevan.<\/p>\n

\"Yerevan<\/p>\n

Yerevans markeder<\/h2>\n

Start din dag p\u00e5 Vernissage Marke. Det er det perfekte sted til en morgentur, is\u00e6r i weekenden, n\u00e5r alle kunstnerne og s\u00e6lgerne er ude med deres varer. Man kan nemt tilbringe timer p\u00e5 dette marked, som har alt fra h\u00e5ndlavede backgammons\u00e6t i tr\u00e6 til gamle sovjetiske memorabilia. Der er noget for alle budgetter og smagsl\u00f8g, ikke kun kitschede souvenirs. Hvis du pr\u00f8ver at finde noget, der repr\u00e6senterer Armenien, skal du kigge efter h\u00e5ndlavede varer, der bruger granat\u00e6bleformen.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Hvis du gerne vil se et lokalt marked i funktion, skal du tage til G.U.M Market (Gumi Shuka), hvor gamle damer lokker dig til at smage p\u00e5 t\u00f8rrede frugter og n\u00f8dder, og k\u00e6derygende slagtere f\u00e5ret gemmer deres cigaretter, n\u00e5r du beder om et billede. Jeg ville gerne pr\u00f8ve churchkhela<\/em>, en r\u00e6kke n\u00f8dder dyppet i frugtsaft, s\u00e5 jeg stoppede, da en s\u00e6lger kaldte p\u00e5 mig. Hun var ivrig efter at forklare mig om sine forskellige produkter, selv om hun talte en lind str\u00f8m af russisk, der fl\u00f8j lige forbi mig. Jeg k\u00f8bte en churchkhela <\/em>og spurgte, om jeg m\u00e5tte tage et billede af hende. Hun trak sit barnebarn hen til sig og poserede som en stolt babushka<\/em>, og s\u00e5 – f\u00f8r jeg kunne g\u00e5 – for\u00e6rede hun mig flere abrikosgodter.<\/p>\n

Kunst og museer<\/h2>\n

Yerevan har n\u00e6sten 50 museer. Der er virkelig noget for enhver smag. Jeg bes\u00f8gte Sergei Parajanov-museet<\/a> for at l\u00e6re mere om Armeniens historie.<\/p>\n

Museet er skabt til \u00e6re for Armeniens mest ber\u00f8mte instrukt\u00f8r og er en fantastisk samling af kunst. Det var et utroligt mindev\u00e6rdigt bes\u00f8g, blandt andet fordi en ung museumsassistent fulgte mig rundt i udstillingerne, udpegede s\u00e6rlige v\u00e6rker og svarede p\u00e5 mine sp\u00f8rgsm\u00e5l. Uanset om hun beskrev hans kunstneriske vision eller fortalte mig om den forf\u00f8lgelse, han blev udsat for af den sovjetiske regering, gjorde hendes entusiasme Parajanovs kunst s\u00e5 meget mere levende.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Jeg tog ogs\u00e5 en tur til Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum<\/a>. Selvom det var et dystert bes\u00f8g, var det meget v\u00e6rdifuldt at l\u00e6re om den forf\u00f8lgelse, armenierne blev udsat for i begyndelsen af 1900-tallet. Denne m\u00f8rke periode i Armeniens historie har haft en vidtr\u00e6kkende indflydelse selv efter hundrede \u00e5r og p\u00e5virker fortsat lokalbefolkningens liv.<\/p>\n

Caf\u00e9er og jazz<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Yerevan er ber\u00f8mt for sine solrige fortovsborde, hyggelige k\u00e6ldre, romantiske verandaer og caf\u00e9er, hvor man kan f\u00e5 alt fra armensk kaffe til granat\u00e6blevin.<\/p>\n

Yerevan oplever ogs\u00e5 en guldalder for jazzcaf\u00e9er. I bussen fra Tbilisi til Yerevan m\u00f8dte jeg en georgisk pige, som inviterede mig med hende og hendes venner p\u00e5 en jazz- og vinbar, der hedder Enoteca<\/a>. Jeg tilbragte aftenen med at spise og drikke i det fri sammen med en gruppe venlige armeniere, unge mennesker, der arbejdede i regeringen, med kunst og humanit\u00e6r hj\u00e6lp, og de havde gode samtaler med fremragende livejazz i baggrunden.<\/p>\n

Enoteca har ogs\u00e5 deres eget vodkadestilleri i k\u00e6lderen, og jeg vendte tilbage den f\u00f8lgende aften til deres jazzfunk DJ-aften, hvor jeg smagte p\u00e5 deres forskellige vodkaer.<\/p>\n

Kunstnere fra Jerevan<\/h2>\n

Armeniens kunstscene er en fascinerende blanding af gamle teknikker og moderne sensibilitet. Cafesjian Center for the Arts<\/a>, der har til huse i den imponerende Cascade-trappe, er en magnet for fans af moderne kunst.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Jeg bes\u00f8gte ogs\u00e5 et udend\u00f8rs v\u00e6rksted for at tale med en mand, der snitter khachkars. Khachkars <\/em>er kunstf\u00e6rdigt dekorerede monumenter, traditionelt kors, som er udsmykket med traditionelle symboler og m\u00f8nstre. Det er en kunstform, der har eksisteret i over tusind \u00e5r, og kunstneren, jeg m\u00f8dte, havde l\u00e6rt h\u00e5ndv\u00e6rket af sin far.<\/p>\n

“Jeg er vokset op med at lege her,” sagde han og viste mig s\u00e5 en video af sin egen fire\u00e5rige s\u00f8n, der “arbejdede” p\u00e5 en khachkar<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Khachkars<\/em> kan veje flere tons, og nogle gange arbejder mere end \u00e9n kunstner p\u00e5 et stykke. Det er den ultimative souvenir.<\/p>\n

Armenske restauranter<\/h2>\n

Uanset hvor meget jeg fors\u00f8gte at spise, var 72 timer ikke nok til helt at tilfredsstille min trang til armensk mad. Det nationale k\u00f8kken er imponerende mangfoldigt, og retterne fra det vestlige Armenien og det \u00f8stlige Armenien kan variere meget, fra det spr\u00f8de lahmacun <\/em>pizzalignende fladbr\u00f8d til hjertelig khorovats<\/em> barbeque.<\/p>\n

De lokale, jeg talte med, anbefalede Pandok (Tavern) Yerevan<\/a>. Jeg tog derhen med den hensigt at proppe mig med khorovats<\/em> og sammenligne det med andre grillretter i regionen, men min tjener havde andre id\u00e9er.<\/p>\n

“I morgen skal du pr\u00f8ve barbeque,” sagde han og anbefalede i stedet en gr\u00e6skarret.<\/p>\n

Jeg havde ikke en dag i morgen i Jerevan, og jeg var ikke meget for at opgive tanken om mit k\u00f8dm\u00e5ltid, men jeg har l\u00e6rt altid at stole p\u00e5 min tjener, n\u00e5r jeg rejser. Jeg n\u00f8d min forret af dolma<\/em>, m\u00f8re drueblade fyldt med k\u00f8d, og drak noget af den bedste husets vin, jeg nogensinde har f\u00e5et.<\/p>\n

Da min tjener kom ud med et helt gr\u00e6skar, faldt mit hjerte (og min mave) i svime. Ghapama<\/em> er typisk en s\u00f8d ret, en blanding af ris, frugt og honning. Denne version af ghapama<\/em> var en salt udgave med k\u00f8d og b\u00f8nner. Ghapama<\/em> er den slags ret, jeg ville booke en flybillet til.<\/p>\n

Jeg spiste andre l\u00e6kre m\u00e5ltider i Yerevan, blandt andet hjemlig mad p\u00e5 Anteb og perfekt armensk kaffe p\u00e5 Gemini Caf\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Tjek vores hostels i Yerevan.<\/b><\/a><\/b><\/p>\n

Om forfatteren<\/h2>\n

Amy Butler er skribent fra New York City, hvor hun i \u00f8jeblikket rejser rundt uden fast adresse. Hendes hovedaktiviteter er at blive venner med bartendere og opleve forskellige kulturer gennem br\u00f8d. L\u00e6s hendes blog The Wayfarer’s Book <\/a>, eller f\u00f8lg hende p\u00e5 Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":163,"featured_media":137369,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"hw_related":"[{\"id\":237346,\"score\":0.62580000000000002291500322826323099434375762939453125,\"hook\":\"\"},{\"id\":1291482,\"score\":0.55130000000000001225686219186172820627689361572265625,\"hook\":\"\"}]","footnotes":""},"categories":[18254],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-237388","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized-da","wpbf-post"],"yoast_head":"\nEn insiders guide til Yerevan - Armeniens dr\u00f8mmeagtige hovedstad - Hostelworld Travel Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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