{"id":243189,"date":"2018-04-30T09:22:14","date_gmt":"2018-04-30T09:22:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/an-insiders-guide-to-yerevan-armenias-dreamy-capital\/"},"modified":"2023-11-09T15:24:54","modified_gmt":"2023-11-09T15:24:54","slug":"ermenistan%c4%b1n-r%c3%bcya-gibi-ba%c5%9fkenti-erivan-i%c3%a7in-i%c3%a7eriden-bir-rehber","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/tr\/ermenistan%c4%b1n-r%c3%bcya-gibi-ba%c5%9fkenti-erivan-i%c3%a7in-i%c3%a7eriden-bir-rehber\/","title":{"rendered":"Ermenistan’\u0131n r\u00fcya gibi ba\u015fkenti Erivan i\u00e7in i\u00e7eriden bir rehber"},"content":{"rendered":"

D\u00fcr\u00fcst olaca\u011f\u0131m – Ermenistan’\u0131n pitoresk ba\u015fkentinin k\u00fclt\u00fcr, avangart sanat ve mis kokulu geleneksel yemeklerle dolu oldu\u011funu bilmek bir yana, uzun bir s\u00fcre Erivan’\u0131n nas\u0131l hecelendi\u011fini bile bilmiyordum. Kafkaslar\u0131n g\u00fczelli\u011fi giderek daha fazla gezgini cezbederken, Ermenistan hala radar\u0131n alt\u0131nda u\u00e7uyor gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor ve bu da Erivan’\u0131 bir ka\u015fifin r\u00fcyas\u0131 haline getiriyor.<\/p>\n

Yerevan’\u0131 ziyaret etmek i\u00e7in verebilece\u011fim en iyi tavsiye ( herkesten \u00f6nce m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olan en k\u0131sa s\u00fcrede gitmenin<\/em> yan\u0131 s\u0131ra) tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z herkesle konu\u015fmakt\u0131r. \u00d6\u011frenciler, g\u00fcvenlik g\u00f6revlileri, taksi \u015fof\u00f6rleri ve sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n hepsi bana yard\u0131m etmeye hevesliydi, bu da Erivan’\u0131 \u015fimdiye kadar ziyaret etti\u011fim en misafirperver \u015fehirlerden biri haline getirdi. \u0130ster tek ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131za s\u0131rt \u00e7antas\u0131yla seyahat ediyor olun, ister bir partnerle van life yap\u0131yor olun, ister deneyimli bir gezgin olun, ister ilk yurtd\u0131\u015f\u0131 seyahatinizde olun, Erivan’\u0131 sevece\u011finizi garanti ederim.<\/p>\n

\"Yerevan<\/p>\n

Erivan pazarlar\u0131<\/h2>\n

G\u00fcne Vernissage Marke’de ba\u015flay\u0131n. Buras\u0131 sabah gezintisi i\u00e7in m\u00fckemmel bir yerdir, \u00f6zellikle de t\u00fcm sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n ve sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n mallar\u0131yla birlikte d\u0131\u015far\u0131da oldu\u011fu hafta sonlar\u0131. El yap\u0131m\u0131 ah\u015fap tavla setlerinden eski Sovyet hat\u0131ralar\u0131na kadar her \u015feyin bulundu\u011fu bu pazarda kolayca saatler ge\u00e7irebilirsiniz. Sadece kitschy hediyelik e\u015fyalar de\u011fil, her b\u00fct\u00e7eye ve zevke uygun bir \u015feyler sunar. Ermenistan’\u0131 temsil eden bir \u015fey bulmak istiyorsan\u0131z, nar \u015feklini kullanan el i\u015fi \u00fcr\u00fcnlere bak\u0131n.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Yerel bir pazar\u0131 i\u015f ba\u015f\u0131nda g\u00f6rmek isterseniz, ya\u015fl\u0131 kad\u0131nlar\u0131n kuru meyve ve kuruyemi\u015f \u00f6rneklerini denemeniz i\u00e7in sizi \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve sigara i\u00e7en kasaplar\u0131n foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirmek istedi\u011finizde sigaralar\u0131n\u0131 utanga\u00e7 bir \u015fekilde saklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 G.U.M Pazar\u0131’na (Gumi Shuka) gidin. Meyve sular\u0131na bat\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir dizi f\u0131nd\u0131k olan churchkhela<\/em>‘y\u0131 denemek istedim, bu y\u00fczden bir sat\u0131c\u0131 beni yan\u0131na \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131nda durdum. Bana farkl\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnlerini anlatmaya hevesliydi, her ne kadar s\u00fcrekli Rus\u00e7a konu\u015fup beni ge\u00e7i\u015ftirse de. Bir churchkhela <\/em>sat\u0131n ald\u0131m ve foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekip \u00e7ekemeyece\u011fimi sordum. Torununu yan\u0131na \u00e7ekerek gururlu bir babu\u015fka<\/em> pozu verdi ve sonra – ben ayr\u0131lmadan \u00f6nce – bana daha fazla kay\u0131s\u0131 ikram etti.<\/p>\n

Sanat ve m\u00fczeler<\/h2>\n

Yerevan’da yakla\u015f\u0131k 50 m\u00fcze bulunmaktad\u0131r. Ger\u00e7ekten de herkes i\u00e7in bir \u015feyler var. Ermenistan’\u0131n tarihi hakk\u0131nda daha fazla bilgi edinmek i\u00e7in Sergei Parajanov M\u00fczesi<\/a> ‘ni ziyaret ettim.<\/p>\n

Ermenistan’\u0131n en \u00fcnl\u00fc y\u00f6netmeninin onuruna kurulan m\u00fcze, \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 bir sanat koleksiyonuna sahip. \u0130nan\u0131lmaz derecede unutulmaz bir ziyaretti, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc k\u0131smen gen\u00e7 bir m\u00fcze g\u00f6revlisi bana sergilerde e\u015flik etti, \u00f6zel par\u00e7alar\u0131 g\u00f6sterdi ve sorular\u0131m\u0131 yan\u0131tlad\u0131. Sanatsal vizyonunu anlat\u0131rken ya da Sovyet h\u00fck\u00fcmetinden g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc zulm\u00fc anlat\u0131rken duydu\u011fu co\u015fku Parajanov’un sanat\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ok daha canl\u0131 hale getirdi.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Ayr\u0131ca Ermeni Soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 An\u0131t\u0131 ve M\u00fczesi<\/a>‘ne de bir gezi yapt\u0131m. Bu h\u00fcz\u00fcnl\u00fc bir ziyaret olsa da, 1900’lerin ba\u015f\u0131nda Ermenilerin maruz kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 zul\u00fcm hakk\u0131nda bilgi edinmek \u00e7ok de\u011ferliydi. Ermenistan’\u0131n tarihindeki bu karanl\u0131k d\u00f6nem, y\u00fcz y\u0131l sonra bile geni\u015f kapsaml\u0131 bir etkiye sahip oldu ve yerel halk\u0131n hayat\u0131n\u0131 etkilemeye devam etti.<\/p>\n

Kafeler ve caz<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Erivan, g\u00fcne\u015fli kald\u0131r\u0131m masalar\u0131, rahat bodrum katlar\u0131, romantik verandalar\u0131 ve Ermeni kahvesinden nar \u015farab\u0131na kadar her \u015feyi bulabilece\u011finiz kafeleriyle \u00fcnl\u00fcd\u00fcr.<\/p>\n

Yerevan da caz kafelerin alt\u0131n \u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015f\u0131yor. Tiflis’ten Erivan’a giderken otob\u00fcste G\u00fcrc\u00fc bir k\u0131zla tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131m ve beni Enoteca<\/a> adl\u0131 bir caz ve \u015farap bar\u0131nda kendisine ve arkada\u015flar\u0131na kat\u0131lmaya davet etti. Ak\u015fam\u0131, h\u00fck\u00fcmet, sanat ve insani yard\u0131m alanlar\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan gen\u00e7lerden olu\u015fan bir grup dost canl\u0131s\u0131 Ermeni ile a\u00e7\u0131k havada yemek yiyip i\u00e7erek ve arka planda muhte\u015fem canl\u0131 caz e\u015fli\u011finde harika sohbetler ederek ge\u00e7irdim.<\/p>\n

Enoteca’n\u0131n bodrum kat\u0131nda kendi votka dam\u0131tma tesisi de var ve ertesi ak\u015fam caz funk DJ gecesi i\u00e7in geri d\u00f6nd\u00fcm ve farkl\u0131 inf\u00fczyon votkalar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6rnekledim.<\/p>\n

Erivan sanat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131<\/h2>\n

Ermenistan’\u0131n sanat ortam\u0131, eski teknikler ile modern duyarl\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici bir kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131d\u0131r. Etkileyici Cascade merdivenlerinde yer alan Cafesjian Sanat Merkezi<\/a>, \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f sanat hayranlar\u0131 i\u00e7in bir m\u0131knat\u0131s gibidir.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Ayr\u0131ca ha\u00e7kar <\/em>yapan bir adamla konu\u015fmak i\u00e7in bir a\u00e7\u0131k hava at\u00f6lyesini ziyaret ettim. Ha\u00e7karlar <\/em>, geleneksel semboller ve tasar\u0131mlarla bezenmi\u015f, geleneksel olarak ha\u00e7 olan, \u00f6zenle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f an\u0131tlard\u0131r. Bin y\u0131l\u0131 a\u015fk\u0131n bir s\u00fcredir var olan bir sanat dal\u0131 ve tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m sanat\u00e7\u0131 bu i\u015fi babas\u0131ndan \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

“Ben burada oynayarak b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fcm” dedi ve ard\u0131ndan bana d\u00f6rt ya\u015f\u0131ndaki o\u011flunun ha\u00e7kar<\/em> \u00fczerinde ‘\u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131’ bir video g\u00f6sterdi.<\/p>\n

Ha\u00e7karlar<\/em> birka\u00e7 ton a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda olabilir ve bazen bir par\u00e7a \u00fczerinde birden fazla sanat\u00e7\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131r. Bu nihai bir hat\u0131rad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Ermeni restoranlar\u0131<\/h2>\n

Ne kadar yemeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rsam \u00e7al\u0131\u015fay\u0131m, 72 saat Ermeni yemeklerine olan \u00f6zlemimi tamamen gidermeye yetmedi. Ulusal mutfak etkileyici bir \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fe sahip ve bat\u0131 Ermenistan ile do\u011fu Ermenistan’\u0131n yemekleri, \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r lahmacun <\/em>benzeri g\u00f6zlemelerden doyurucu khorovats<\/em> barbek\u00fcs\u00fcne kadar \u00e7ok \u00e7e\u015fitlilik g\u00f6sterebiliyor.<\/p>\n

Konu\u015ftu\u011fum yerel halk Pandok (Taverna) Yerevan<\/a>‘\u0131 tavsiye etti. Oraya khorovatlarla<\/em> karn\u0131m\u0131 doyurmaya ve b\u00f6lgedeki di\u011fer barbek\u00fclerle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rmaya niyetli olarak gittim, ancak garsonumun ba\u015fka fikirleri vard\u0131.<\/p>\n

“Yar\u0131n barbek\u00fcy\u00fc dene,” dedi, onun yerine bir balkaba\u011f\u0131 yeme\u011fi \u00f6nerdi.<\/p>\n

Erivan’da yar\u0131n\u0131m yoktu ve et ziyafeti fikrimden vazge\u00e7mek istemiyordum ama seyahat ederken garsonuma her zaman g\u00fcvenmeyi \u00f6\u011frendim. Et ile doldurulmu\u015f yumu\u015fak \u00fcz\u00fcm yapraklar\u0131 olan dolma<\/em> mezemin tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131m ve \u015fimdiye kadar i\u00e7ti\u011fim en iyi ev \u015farab\u0131ndan baz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7tim.<\/p>\n

Garsonum b\u00fct\u00fcn bir balkaba\u011f\u0131 getirdi\u011finde kalbim (ve midem) bay\u0131ld\u0131. Ghapama<\/em> genellikle pirin\u00e7, meyve ve bal kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131ndan olu\u015fan tatl\u0131 bir yemektir. Ghapama<\/em> ‘n\u0131n bu versiyonu etli ve fasulyeli tuzlu bir yorumdu. Ghapama<\/em>, u\u011fruna u\u00e7ak bileti alabilece\u011fim t\u00fcrden bir yemek.<\/p>\n

Yerevan’da Anteb’de ev yemekleri ve Gemini Caf\u00e9’de m\u00fckemmel Ermeni kahvesi gibi ba\u015fka lezzetli yemekler de yedim.<\/p>\n

Yerevan’deki hostellerimize g\u00f6z at\u0131n.<\/b><\/a><\/b><\/p>\n

Yazar hakk\u0131nda<\/h2>\n

Amy Butler, New York’ta ya\u015fayan ve \u015fu s\u0131ralar sabit bir adresi olmadan gezinen bir yazar. Ba\u015fl\u0131ca aktiviteleri aras\u0131nda barmenlerle arkada\u015f olmak ve ekmek arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrleri deneyimlemek yer al\u0131yor. The Wayfarer’s Book <\/a>adl\u0131 blogunu okuyabilir ya da instagram<\/a> hesab\u0131n\u0131 takip edebilirsiniz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":163,"featured_media":137369,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"hw_hurry":"","hw_related":"[{\"id\":243145,\"score\":0.6369000000000000216715534406830556690692901611328125,\"hook\":\"\"}]","footnotes":""},"categories":[18274],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-243189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized-tr","wpbf-post"],"yoast_head":"\nErmenistan'\u0131n r\u00fcya gibi ba\u015fkenti Erivan i\u00e7in i\u00e7eriden bir rehber - Hostelworld Travel Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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