{"id":250284,"date":"2023-02-07T11:19:39","date_gmt":"2023-02-07T11:19:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/should-you-put-the-killing-fields-on-your-cambodia-itinerary-2\/"},"modified":"2023-11-13T18:01:46","modified_gmt":"2023-11-13T18:01:46","slug":"m%c4%9bli-byste-do-sv%c3%a9ho-itiner%c3%a1%c5%99e-v-kambod%c5%bei-za%c5%99adit-i-vra%c5%beedn%c3%a1-pole","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/cs\/m%c4%9bli-byste-do-sv%c3%a9ho-itiner%c3%a1%c5%99e-v-kambod%c5%bei-za%c5%99adit-i-vra%c5%beedn%c3%a1-pole\/","title":{"rendered":"M\u011bli byste do sv\u00e9ho itiner\u00e1\u0159e v Kambod\u017ei za\u0159adit i Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kdy\u017e sledujete n\u00e1dhern\u00fd v\u00fdchod slunce nad kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi rozpadaj\u00edc\u00edmi se chr\u00e1my<\/a> Angkor Watu nebo pop\u00edj\u00edte koktejly na zasn\u011bn\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017ei Koh Rong, je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 si p\u0159edstavit Kambod\u017eu<\/a> jinak ne\u017e jako klidnou.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Nicm\u00e9n\u011b za klidnou fas\u00e1dou zem\u011b se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 d\u011bsiv\u00e1 historie, kter\u00e1 je st\u00e1le v \u017eiv\u00e9 pam\u011bti. Re\u017eim Rud\u00fdch Khmer\u016f, kter\u00fd vedla extr\u00e9mn\u00ed komunistick\u00e1 partyz\u00e1nsk\u00e1 skupina, trval v 70. letech \u010dty\u0159i roky a jeho v\u00fdsledkem byla smrt v\u00edce ne\u017e milionu lid\u00ed na m\u00edstech zn\u00e1m\u00fdch jako “Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole”. Dnes jsou z nich dojemn\u00e9 pam\u00e1tn\u00edky, k jejich\u017e n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b jsou vyb\u00edzeni turist\u00e9. <\/span>Za\u0159adili<\/span><\/i>byste <\/span> je do sv\u00e9ho itiner\u00e1\u0159e <\/span>? <\/span><\/p>\n

Pro\u010d byste rozhodn\u011b m\u011bli nav\u0161t\u00edvit Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole – Jemima<\/b><\/h2>\n

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P\u0159ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvou Kambod\u017ee jsem o hr\u016fzovl\u00e1d\u011b Rud\u00fdch Khmer\u016f nev\u011bd\u011bla t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nic (koneckonc\u016f je to ud\u00e1lost, kter\u00e1 je \u010dasto zast\u00edn\u011bna p\u0159edchoz\u00ed v\u00e1lkou ve Vietnamu). Tak\u00e9 o Vra\u017eedn\u00fdch pol\u00edch jsem sly\u0161ela jen zb\u011b\u017en\u011b, ale hned po p\u0159\u00edjezdu jsem v\u011bd\u011bla, \u017ee – podobn\u011b jako koncentra\u010dn\u00ed t\u00e1bory z druh\u00e9 sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky rozeset\u00e9 po Evrop\u011b – jsou d\u016fle\u017eitou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed historie zem\u011b a \u017ee je chci vid\u011bt.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Jejich n\u00e1zev velmi p\u0159\u00edmo\u010da\u0159e odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed jejich n\u011bkdej\u0161\u00ed \u00fa\u010del: byla to m\u00edsta, kde Rud\u00ed Khmerov\u00e9 mu\u010dili, hladov\u011bli a nakonec zavra\u017edili ty, kte\u0159\u00ed se nep\u0159izp\u016fsobili jejich p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010den\u00ed nebo s n\u00edm nesouhlasili. Dnes tato pole slou\u017e\u00ed jako pam\u00e1tn\u00edky t\u011bm, kte\u0159\u00ed b\u011bhem tohoto kr\u00e1tk\u00e9ho, i kdy\u017e stra\u0161liv\u00e9ho obdob\u00ed kambod\u017esk\u00fdch d\u011bjin p\u0159i\u0161li o \u017eivot.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Po cel\u00e9 zemi jsou rozesety des\u00edtky vra\u017eedn\u00fdch pol\u00ed, ale nejnav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed z nich se nach\u00e1z\u00ed jen kousek od Phnompenhu. V roce 2005 se z n\u011bj stalo Genocidn\u00ed centrum Choeung Ek a v sou\u010dasnosti je to nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed pam\u00e1tn\u00edk v\u011bnovan\u00fd lidem posti\u017een\u00fdm re\u017eimem Rud\u00fdch Khmer\u016f. P\u0159edpokl\u00e1d\u00e1 se, \u017ee v letech 1975-1979 bylo na tomto m\u00edst\u011b zabito a poh\u0159beno v masov\u00fdch hrobech v\u00edce ne\u017e 15 000 lid\u00ed – mnoho z nich byly \u017eeny a d\u011bti.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Pro ty, kte\u0159\u00ed se zaj\u00edmaj\u00ed o temnou turistiku, je n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva opravdu bez debat. Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole Choeung Ek jsou \u010dasto spojov\u00e1na s Muzeem genocidy Tuol Sleng (b\u00fdval\u00e1 politick\u00e1 v\u011bznice p\u0159em\u011bn\u011bn\u00e1 na muzeum) v sam\u00e9m centru m\u011bsta. Zpo\u010d\u00e1tku jsem byl na v\u00e1\u017ek\u00e1ch, zda do sv\u00e9ho itiner\u00e1\u0159e za\u0159adit jedno nebo druh\u00e9. <\/span>Opravdu<\/span><\/i>jsem <\/span> cht\u011bl str\u00e1vit cel\u00fd den sv\u00e9 cesty pozn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm mu\u010den\u00ed a smrti? Naopak, n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva obou nakonec dodala m\u00e9mu v\u00fdletu na emocion\u00e1ln\u00ed komplexnosti a umo\u017enila mi hloub\u011bji poznat kambod\u017esk\u00fd lid.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

To plat\u00ed zejm\u00e9na pro Choeung Ek. Pole 17 kilometr\u016f za m\u011bstem bylo kdysi sadem poset\u00fdm stromy longanu; tropick\u00e9 rostliny, kter\u00e1 plod\u00ed ovoce podobn\u00e9 li\u010di. V polovin\u011b 70. let 20. stolet\u00ed se sad – kdysi nositel \u017eivota – stal masov\u00fdm hrobem tis\u00edc\u016f nevinn\u00fdch lid\u00ed. P\u0159i proch\u00e1zce po cesti\u010dk\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 se vinou mezi posledn\u00edmi longany, je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 snadn\u00e9 zapomenout, \u017ee pod korunami a zkroucen\u00fdmi ko\u0159eny le\u017e\u00ed lidsk\u00e9 ostatky.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Genocida v Kambod\u017ei se odehr\u00e1la p\u0159ed necel\u00fdmi 50 lety, tak\u017ee je st\u00e1le velmi siln\u011b zako\u0159en\u011bn\u00e1 v pam\u011bti mnoha m\u00edstn\u00edch obyvatel. \u0158idi\u010d tuk-tuku, kter\u00fd m\u011b a m\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtele na m\u00edsto vezl, si pamatoval den, kdy byl Choeung Ek otev\u0159en jako pam\u00e1tn\u00edk. \u0158ekl n\u00e1m, \u017ee tehdy, kdy\u017e byl je\u0161t\u011b mal\u00e9 d\u00edt\u011b, nebyly kolem m\u00edsta \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 bambusov\u00e9 pl\u016ftky ozdoben\u00e9 pestrobarevn\u00fdmi n\u00e1ramky (dary dobr\u00e9 v\u016fle zanechan\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky). Mohli jste se proch\u00e1zet p\u0159\u00edmo dovnit\u0159, co\u017e mnoha m\u00edstn\u00edm obyvatel\u016fm umo\u017enilo pravideln\u011b nav\u0161t\u011bvovat m\u00edsto posledn\u00edho odpo\u010dinku sv\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00fdch.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

A\u010dkoli se n\u011bkomu m\u016f\u017ee zd\u00e1t, \u017ee za prohl\u00eddku tak pochmurn\u00e9 p\u0159ipom\u00ednky kambod\u017esk\u00e9 minulosti se dnes plat\u00ed, cena vstupenky je minim\u00e1ln\u00ed a jde na \u00fadr\u017ebu prostoru – zejm\u00e9na pam\u00e1tn\u00edku v jeho st\u0159edu, kter\u00fd je snad nejskromn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm pohledem na cel\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b. Na vysok\u00e9 buddhistick\u00e9 st\u00fap\u011b (kter\u00e1 odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed v kraji) je za sklen\u011bn\u00fdmi panely vystavena \u0159ada lebek. V\u0161ech zhruba 5000 lebek bylo exhumov\u00e1no z cel\u00e9ho are\u00e1lu po\u010d\u00e1tkem roku 2000.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Choeung Ek rozhodn\u011b nen\u00ed pro slab\u00e9 povahy. Pokud si ho rad\u011bji prohl\u00e9dnete jako pam\u00e1tn\u00edk, ne\u017e abyste se dozv\u011bd\u011bli p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 mnoho podrobnost\u00ed o jeho minulosti, projd\u011bte se po n\u011bm bez doprovodn\u00e9ho audiopr\u016fvodce (kter\u00fd m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt n\u011bkdy ot\u0159esn\u00fd). P\u0159esto je zde rozm\u00edst\u011bno n\u011bkolik pam\u011btn\u00edch desek, kter\u00e9 v\u00e1m pomohou identifikovat ur\u010dit\u00e9 prvky, a mal\u00e1 budova muzea se spoustou informac\u00ed o Rud\u00fdch Khmerech a jejich tyransk\u00e9m v\u016fdci Pol Potovi.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Z\u00e1v\u011br? Je skv\u011bl\u00e9 m\u00edt na programu r\u016fzn\u00e9 aktivity, a\u0165 u\u017e jde o prohl\u00eddky okouzluj\u00edc\u00edch chr\u00e1m\u016f Ta Prohm, ve\u010dery str\u00e1ven\u00e9 v khmersk\u00fdch restaurac\u00edch s hork\u00fdmi bramborami nebo v\u00fdlety na sluncem zalit\u00e9 ji\u017en\u00ed ostrovy, ale je d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 si uv\u011bdomit i temn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed str\u00e1nku Kambod\u017ee.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Jako Evropan, jeho\u017e p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00ed \u017eili a zem\u0159eli b\u011bhem sv\u011btov\u00fdch v\u00e1lek, jsem osobn\u011b vid\u011bl Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole, co\u017e m\u011b ur\u010dit\u011b zas\u00e1hlo. Nakonec si mysl\u00edm, \u017ee bychom se nikdy nem\u011bli vyh\u00fdbat n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b m\u00edst se strastiplnou minulost\u00ed. Koneckonc\u016f, pou\u010den\u00ed sv\u011bta o t\u011bch nejtemn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch v\u011bcech, kter\u00fdch je lidstvo schopno, snad zabr\u00e1n\u00ed tomu, aby se historie opakovala.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Pro\u010d byste si m\u011bli n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Vra\u017eedn\u00fdch pol\u00ed VYBRAT – Abbi<\/b><\/h2>\n

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Temn\u00e1 turistika je kontroverzn\u00ed oblast\u00ed cestov\u00e1n\u00ed, a to z dobr\u00e9ho d\u016fvodu. I kdy\u017e je d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 poznat i nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed str\u00e1nky historie dan\u00e9 zem\u011b – v\u0161ude jsou p\u0159ece dobr\u00e9 i \u0161patn\u00e9 prvky! – mus\u00edme se opravdu zamyslet nad t\u00edm, zda podpora lid\u00ed v n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b m\u00edst, kde se odehr\u00e1la lidsk\u00e1 zv\u011brstva, jim pom\u00e1h\u00e1 l\u00e9pe pochopit jejich cestovn\u00ed destinaci, nebo zda jde o vyko\u0159is\u0165ov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edsta a jeho obyvatel.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

M\u00edsta, jako jsou Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole, a\u010dkoli jsou s \u00factou zachov\u00e1na, podporuj\u00ed turistiku v oblastech, kde je trauma pro lidi, kte\u0159\u00ed tam \u017eij\u00ed, st\u00e1le je\u0161t\u011b ned\u00e1vnou vzpom\u00ednkou a kde se ob\u011bti a jejich rodiny st\u00e1le je\u0161t\u011b pot\u0159ebuj\u00ed uzdravit. Vytv\u00e1\u0159en\u00ed nov\u00fdch turistick\u00fdch m\u00edst nejen\u017ee br\u00e1n\u00ed fyzick\u00e9 regeneraci oblasti, ale v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b tak ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 ud\u00e1losti, jakou byla kambod\u017esk\u00e1 ob\u010dansk\u00e1 v\u00e1lka, nut\u00ed st\u00e1le \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00e9 ob\u011bt\u00ed, aby si zv\u011brstva neust\u00e1le p\u0159ipom\u00ednali. Zachov\u00e1n\u00ed Vra\u017eedn\u00fdch pol\u00ed jako turistick\u00e9 lokality sp\u00ed\u0161e podporuje n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky oblasti v tom, aby tato traumata udr\u017eovali p\u0159i \u017eivot\u011b, ne\u017e aby je ponechali jako m\u00edsto reflexe.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

V dob\u011b, kdy i ten nejneohro\u017een\u011bj\u0161\u00ed cestovatel \u017eije \u010d\u00e1st sv\u00e9ho \u017eivota online, je d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 se zamyslet nad vlivem soci\u00e1ln\u00edch m\u00e9di\u00ed na lidi m\u00ed\u0159\u00edc\u00ed do temn\u00fdch turistick\u00fdch m\u00edst. Platformy jako TikTok a Instagram umo\u017e\u0148uj\u00ed u\u017eivatel\u016fm snadno nahr\u00e1vat videa a fotografie z m\u00edst temn\u00e9 turistiky, a t\u00edm umo\u017e\u0148uj\u00ed r\u016fst humbuk\u016f. Sta\u010d\u00ed si na TikToku vyhledat “Killing Fields Cambodia” a hned se na v\u00e1s val\u00ed jedno video za druh\u00fdm s lebkami, selfie a dokonce i doporu\u010den\u00edmi na j\u00eddlo! Pokud tolik lid\u00ed vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed obsah kolem t\u011bchto m\u00edst, jak si m\u016f\u017eeme b\u00fdt jisti, \u017ee to d\u011blaj\u00ed poctiv\u011b, a ne pro lajky, zhl\u00e9dnut\u00ed a sledov\u00e1n\u00ed?<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Morbidn\u00ed fascinaci za\u017eil v \u017eivot\u011b ka\u017ed\u00fd – mysl\u00edm, \u017ee nikdo nen\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b imunn\u00ed v\u016f\u010di tomu, aby ho uchv\u00e1til p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh o n\u011b\u010dem tak stra\u0161n\u00e9m, \u017ee si to nedok\u00e1\u017ee p\u0159edstavit. A a\u0165 se n\u00e1m to l\u00edb\u00ed, nebo ne, pr\u00e1v\u011b to lidi p\u0159itahuje na str\u00e1nky, jako jsou Vra\u017eedn\u00e1 pole. Tato m\u00edsta bezesporu vyd\u011bl\u00e1vaj\u00ed pen\u00edze, a jak zajistit, aby pen\u00edze st\u00e1le p\u0159ich\u00e1zely? T\u00edm, \u017ee je lid\u00e9 budou nav\u0161t\u011bvovat. A jak udr\u017eet n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvnost? T\u00edm, \u017ee se ujist\u00edte, \u017ee informace, kter\u00e9 z\u00edskaj\u00ed, jsou dostate\u010dn\u00e9 k tomu, aby se sem vraceli nebo aby je doporu\u010dili dal\u0161\u00edm cestovatel\u016fm. Je mo\u017en\u00e9, \u017ee tv\u016frci str\u00e1nek temn\u00e9 turistiky up\u0159ednost\u0148uj\u00ed ty nejd\u011bsiv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy, aby se lid\u00e9 vraceli z morbidn\u00ed zv\u011bdavosti. To je mor\u00e1ln\u011b pochybn\u00e9, a i kdy\u017e to m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt l\u00e1kav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed atrakce, je to vyko\u0159is\u0165ov\u00e1n\u00ed nejen lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed tam trp\u011bli, ale i t\u011bch, kte\u0159\u00ed s t\u011bmito vzpom\u00ednkami st\u00e1le \u017eij\u00ed.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Nen\u00ed tak\u00e9 jasn\u00e9, do jak\u00e9 m\u00edry byly p\u0159i tvorb\u011b pam\u011btn\u00edho m\u00edsta vysly\u0161eny hlasy a p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed byli n\u00e1sil\u00edm p\u0159\u00edmo zasa\u017eeni. Jak se vyb\u00edralo, kter\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy se budou vypr\u00e1v\u011bt, a jak moc jsou tito lid\u00e9 vlastn\u00edky sv\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f, kdy\u017e jsou vystaveny na odiv sv\u011btu? Upozor\u0148uje to spr\u00e1vn\u011b na sp\u00e1chan\u00e1 zv\u011brstva, nebo p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy ztr\u00e1cej\u00ed na sv\u011btov\u00e9 sc\u00e9n\u011b sv\u016fj dopad? Stane se z hr\u016fzy Vra\u017eedn\u00fdch pol\u00ed jen dal\u0161\u00ed hashtag na soci\u00e1ln\u00edch s\u00edt\u00edch, dal\u0161\u00ed jednodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet v itiner\u00e1\u0159i jihov\u00fdchodn\u00ed Asie nebo dal\u0161\u00ed krvav\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh, kter\u00fd se vypr\u00e1v\u00ed doma p\u0159\u00e1tel\u016fm a rodin\u011b? <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Co si o tom mysl\u00edte? Jste pro nebo proti n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b m\u00edst temn\u00e9 turistiky? Vynechali jsme n\u011bjak\u00e9 d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 d\u016fvody pro nebo proti? Dejte n\u00e1m v\u011bd\u011bt v koment\u00e1\u0159\u00edch n\u00ed\u017ee!<\/span> <\/span><\/h4>\n

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