{"id":268332,"date":"2017-03-13T21:39:16","date_gmt":"2017-03-13T21:39:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/solo-travel-to-iran-hitchhiking-tinder-and-a-30-day-marriage\/"},"modified":"2023-11-29T19:31:59","modified_gmt":"2023-11-29T19:31:59","slug":"i%cc%87rana-yaln%c4%b1z-seyahat-otostop-tinder-ve-30-g%c3%bcnl%c3%bck-evlilik","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hostelworld.com\/blog\/tr\/i%cc%87rana-yaln%c4%b1z-seyahat-otostop-tinder-ve-30-g%c3%bcnl%c3%bck-evlilik\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0130ran’a Yaln\u0131z Seyahat – Otostop, Tinder ve 30 G\u00fcnl\u00fck Evlilik"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ger\u00e7ek a\u015fk hi\u00e7bir \u015feyin yoluna \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131na izin vermez. \u0130ki kalbi bir araya getirmek i\u00e7in ulusal s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131, diplomatik d\u00fc\u015fmanl\u0131klar\u0131 ve siber zorbal\u0131klar\u0131 a\u015far. Bu sadece \u015fiirsel duygulardan \u00f6te, bu y\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015flar\u0131nda \u0130ran’a seyahat etmeye karar verdi\u011fimde kendi kendime \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim ya\u015fayan, nefes alan bir ger\u00e7ek. O zamanlar “k\u00f6t\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ekseni” etraf\u0131nda otostop \u00e7ekmenin t\u00fcm d\u00fcnyam\u0131 kendi ekseninde d\u00f6nd\u00fcrece\u011fini ve sadece s\u0131rt \u00e7antal\u0131 kara yolculu\u011fumun de\u011fil, hayat\u0131m\u0131n da gidi\u015fat\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftirece\u011fini \u00e7ok az biliyordum.<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’a Neden Tek Ba\u015f\u0131ma Seyahat Ettim?<\/h2>\n

\"Solo<\/p>\n

Baz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131z \u015fu anda \u0130ngiltere’den G\u00fcney Do\u011fu Asya’ya do\u011fru 3 y\u0131ll\u0131k bir kara yolculu\u011funda oldu\u011fumu ve buradan bir tekne in\u015fa edip Papua Yeni Gine’ye yelken a\u00e7aca\u011f\u0131m\u0131 biliyor olabilir. Bu g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015fte rastgele ve belki de ikiy\u00fczl\u00fc yolculuk, bir sonbahar gecesi Brighton’da ailemin bo\u015f yatak odas\u0131nda ge\u00e7irdi\u011fim sarho\u015f bir ak\u015fam\u0131n, hayallerle dolu bir kafadan ve b\u00fcy\u00fck bir d\u00fcnya haritas\u0131ndan (ve tabii ki lik\u00f6rden) ba\u015fka bir \u015feyle donanm\u0131\u015f beyin \u00e7ocu\u011fuydu.<\/p>\n

Avrupa’dan ba\u015flay\u0131p T\u00fcrkiye K\u00fcrdistan\u0131 \u00fczerinden Asya’ya girerken en \u00e7ok heyecanland\u0131\u011f\u0131m \u015feylerden biri \u0130ran’\u0131 ziyaret etmekti; eski Pers imparatorlu\u011funun halefi, s\u00f6zde “Haydut Devlet” ve Bat\u0131’n\u0131n ba\u015f belas\u0131. Ancak bir sorun vard\u0131…<\/p>\n

Uyar\u0131: \u0130ran’a Vize Almak \u00c7ok Zor<\/h2>\n

\"How<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’\u0131n Bat\u0131 ile olan gergin ili\u015fkisi nedeniyle \u00fclkeye girmek pek de kolay de\u011fil. Anavatan\u0131m B\u00fcy\u00fck Britanya \u0130ran’a a\u011f\u0131r yapt\u0131r\u0131mlar uyguluyor ve \u0130ran da buna kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k olarak Birle\u015fik Krall\u0131k pasaportu sahiplerinin kendi s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7ine engelsiz bir \u015fekilde girmesini ve seyahat etmesini \u00e7ok zorla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor. Neyse ki bunun bir \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fc vard\u0131.<\/p>\n

Birle\u015fik Krall\u0131k n\u00fcfusunun yakla\u015f\u0131k yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n \u0130rlanda k\u00f6kenli oldu\u011fu tahmin ediliyor ve ben de onlardan biriyim. Dolay\u0131s\u0131yla Birle\u015fik Krall\u0131k pasaportuma ek olarak bir \u0130rlanda pasaportu alma hakk\u0131na sahibim; iki kez seyahat etmek i\u00e7in iki pasaporttan bahsediyoruz, de\u011fil mi?<\/p>\n

\u0130rlanda vatanda\u015flar\u0131 \u0130ran’a daha kolay seyahat edebiliyor (\u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u0130rlanda ak\u0131ll\u0131ca davranarak Orta Do\u011fu’nun siyasi i\u015flerine kar\u0131\u015fmamay\u0131 tercih ediyor…) bu y\u00fczden k\u00f6klerimle temasa ge\u00e7erek, Guinness’in tad\u0131na vararak ve \u0130rlanda pasaportu alarak \u0130ran’a kendi \u015fartlar\u0131mla girebilece\u011fimi biliyordum.<\/p>\n

Hayat Boyu Hayalini Ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirmek \u0130\u00e7in \u0130ran’a S\u0131rt \u00c7antas\u0131yla Gitmek<\/h2>\n

\"Backpacking<\/p>\n

G\u00fcrcistan’dan Tebriz’e otostop \u00e7ekerek \u0130ran’a girdim ve iyi niyetli bir otob\u00fcs \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fc “yard\u0131msever” bir \u015fekilde \u0130ran’da bulundu\u011fum s\u00fcre boyunca \u00e7enemi kapal\u0131 tutmam\u0131 tavsiye etti\u011finde ilk izlenimlerim kar\u0131\u015f\u0131kt\u0131 \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc insanlar Bat\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fumdan \u015f\u00fcphelenirlerse beni lin\u00e7 edeceklerdi. Neyse ki, k\u0131sa s\u00fcre sonra hi\u00e7bir \u015feyin ger\u00e7e\u011fin \u00f6tesinde olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve \u0130ranl\u0131lar\u0131n merakl\u0131, misafirperver ve uluslararas\u0131 gerginliklere ra\u011fmen yabanc\u0131lar\u0131n g\u00fczel \u00fclkelerini g\u00f6rmek istemelerinden heyecan duyduklar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frendim.<\/p>\n

\"Hitchhiking<\/p>\n

Yerli halk ger\u00e7ekten de \u00e7ok arkada\u015f canl\u0131s\u0131 olsa da, hala bir \u015feyler eksikti ve birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn yaln\u0131z seyahat ettikten sonra \u00f6zel bir t\u00fcr arkada\u015fa ihtiyac\u0131m oldu\u011funu fark ettim. Ancak \u0130ran \u0130slami bir teokrasiye sahip, bu y\u00fczden de pek canl\u0131 bir tavlama bar\u0131 ortam\u0131 yok. Dahas\u0131, 2016 y\u0131l\u0131nday\u0131z ve ak\u0131ll\u0131 telefonunuzun g\u00fcvenli\u011finden bir arkada\u015f arayabilecekken neden d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p insanlarla konu\u015fma zahmetine giresiniz ki? Do\u011fal olarak Tinder’a y\u00f6neldim..<\/p>\n

Daha \u00f6nce, Brighton’da (ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131z bir \u015fekilde) ve Berlin’de (daha ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 bir \u015fekilde) birka\u00e7 kez uygulamayla oynam\u0131\u015ft\u0131m, bu y\u00fczden Tahran’da bir denemeye karar verdim. Ancak pek \u00e7ok \u015fey gibi Tinder da rejimin \u00fclke gen\u00e7li\u011fini yozla\u015ft\u0131raca\u011f\u0131 korkusuyla \u0130ran’da yasaklanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 (ve B\u00fcy\u00fck Britanya’n\u0131n Tinder ba\u011f\u0131ml\u0131s\u0131 gen\u00e7li\u011fine bak\u0131l\u0131rsa Ayetullah hakl\u0131 olabilir), ancak iradenin oldu\u011fu yerde bir yol vard\u0131r ve bu irade kesinlikle bir yol bulacakt\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"Iran<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’da Tinder ve VPN Denen Harika \u015eey<\/h2>\n

VPN, herkesin hemen hemen her cihaza y\u00fckleyebilece\u011fi, konumlar\u0131n\u0131 ak\u0131ll\u0131ca d\u00fcnya \u00e7ap\u0131nda de\u011fi\u015ftirerek onlara yeni bir IP adresi veren bir yaz\u0131l\u0131m par\u00e7as\u0131d\u0131r. VPN’ler genellikle siber su\u00e7lular, \u00e7evrimi\u00e7i kumarbazlar ve profesyonel troller taraf\u0131ndan kullan\u0131l\u0131r… ayr\u0131ca benim gibi bloglar\u0131n\u0131 y\u00f6netmek i\u00e7in Facebook ve benzerlerine ihtiya\u00e7 duyan dijital g\u00f6\u00e7ebeler taraf\u0131ndan da kullan\u0131l\u0131r. Yasak nedeniyle, \u00e7ok fazla Tinder kullan\u0131c\u0131s\u0131 yoktu ve g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015fe g\u00f6re son Tahranl\u0131 Tinderella’y\u0131 birka\u00e7 dakika i\u00e7inde kayd\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Neyse ki, Tahran’daki Tinder’\u0131n nicelik olarak eksikli\u011fini, Esme’ye rastlad\u0131\u011f\u0131mda do\u011fruland\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi nitelik olarak kesinlikle telafi etti; Hicab\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131ndan sadece bir miktar mavi sa\u00e7\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kan zeytin tenli bir \u0130ran prensesi.<\/p>\n

En iyisini umarak Esme’ye mesaj att\u0131m ve m\u00fckemmel bir \u0130ngilizceyle yan\u0131t verdi\u011finde memnun oldum. Anla\u015ft\u0131k ve Tahran’\u0131n merkezinde kahve i\u00e7mek i\u00e7in bulu\u015fmaya karar verdik. Bulu\u015ftu\u011fumuzda Esme’nin tipik bir \u0130ranl\u0131 k\u0131z olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 hemen anla\u015f\u0131ld\u0131. Belki de aram\u0131zdaki ba\u011f\u0131 sa\u011flayan \u015fey ikimizin de siber ka\u00e7ak olmas\u0131, g\u00f6zetleme sistemini atlatmas\u0131yd\u0131 ama sebepler ne olursa olsun, \u00f6\u011fleden sonra ve ard\u0131ndan ak\u015fam boyunca kendi k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerimiz, umutlar\u0131m\u0131z ve hayallerimiz hakk\u0131nda konu\u015ftuk.<\/p>\n

\"Iran<\/p>\n

\u00c7o\u011fu ilk bulu\u015fma garip bir dudak \u00f6p\u00fc\u015fmesi ve birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn sonra birbirimizi aramak i\u00e7in yap\u0131lan belirsiz planlarla sona ererken, bu seferki farkl\u0131yd\u0131. Birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn sonra Esme ile yol kenar\u0131nda duruyorduk… \u0130ran’da bir ay boyunca otostop \u00e7ekmeye haz\u0131rlan\u0131yorduk.<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’da Bir Ayl\u0131k Evlilik<\/h2>\n

Ancak a\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 gereken bir engel daha vard\u0131… \u0130ran’\u0131n muhafazak\u00e2r teokratik rejiminin bir ba\u015fka tuhafl\u0131\u011f\u0131 da evli olmayan \u00e7iftlerin birlikte seyahat etmesinin ka\u015flar\u0131 kald\u0131rmas\u0131 ve hatta din polisinin gazab\u0131n\u0131 riske atmas\u0131d\u0131r. Her hal\u00fckarda birlikte bir oda bulmakta zorlanacakt\u0131k. Neyse ki Esme’nin kurnazca bir plan\u0131 vard\u0131;<\/p>\n

“Evlenebiliriz”<\/p>\n

Evlilik! Esme’yi seviyordum ama ger\u00e7ekten mi? Onunla daha yeni tan\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m!<\/p>\n

“Sorun de\u011fil, bu sadece ge\u00e7ici bir evlilik. \u0130slam hukukuna g\u00f6re izin veriliyor ve \u0130ran’dan ayr\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra bir ay i\u00e7inde sona erecek”.<\/p>\n

\"Solo<\/p>\n

Sat\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Say\u0131l\u0131r. Ertesi g\u00fcn\u00fc Tahran’da dolanarak benim ani \u0130slam d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcn g\u00fczel bir k\u0131zla ka\u00e7mak i\u00e7in yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m kafirce bir numara de\u011fil de ger\u00e7ek bir inan\u00e7 \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131s\u0131 oldu\u011funu kabul edecek liberal bir Molla bulmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak ge\u00e7irdik. \u0130\u015fbirlik\u00e7i bir Molla ve 30 dolar sonra evlenmi\u015ftik; en az\u0131ndan bir s\u00fcreli\u011fine.<\/p>\n

Birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn sonra s\u0131rt \u00e7antalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 alarak yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k ve \u0130ran’\u0131 birlikte ke\u015ffetmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Sonraki haftalarda muhte\u015fem \u015eiraz b\u00f6lgesini, \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131, g\u00f6kku\u015fa\u011f\u0131 renkli volkanik H\u00fcrm\u00fcz adas\u0131n\u0131 (a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da resmedilmi\u015ftir) ve hatta \u0130ran’\u0131n yeralt\u0131 parti sahnesini gezdik.<\/p>\n

Kalbimi \u0130ran’da B\u0131rakt\u0131m<\/h2>\n

\u0130ran’dan ayr\u0131lma vakti geldi\u011finde Esme’ye sevgiyle veda ettim ve evlili\u011fimizin sona ermesine izin vererek Pakistan’a do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m. Ancak \u0130ranl\u0131 hippi prensesimi unutamad\u0131m ve d\u00fczenli olarak ileti\u015fim halinde kald\u0131k. Pakistan’daki maceralar\u0131m sona erdikten bir ay sonra Esme ile Hindistan’da bulu\u015fmak \u00fczere s\u00f6zle\u015ftik.<\/p>\n

Dedikleri gibi, gerisi de art\u0131k Hatton tarihidir. Ben ve Esme Hindistan’da bulu\u015ftuk, \u00e7ok renkli bir Tuk Tuk’la alt k\u0131tay\u0131 boydan boya ge\u00e7tik, bir s\u00fcreli\u011fine Pakistan’a geri d\u00f6nd\u00fck ve sonra \u0130ran’a d\u00f6nd\u00fck, burada ailesiyle tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131m ve ikinci, daha kal\u0131c\u0131 bir d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn yapt\u0131k. Bir s\u00fcre daha \u0130ngiltere’ye d\u00f6nmeyece\u011fim ama d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde Esme’nin ailemle tan\u0131\u015fmas\u0131 i\u00e7in sab\u0131rs\u0131zlan\u0131yorum, san\u0131r\u0131m \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc bir d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn yapmam\u0131z gerekecek ve tabii ki \u0130rlanda vatanda\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 ve dolay\u0131s\u0131yla hayat\u0131mdaki bu harika de\u011fi\u015fikli\u011fi bor\u00e7lu oldu\u011fum b\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130rlandal\u0131 ailem de Absurdistan’dan gelen \u0130ranl\u0131 bir prensesle evlenmemi izlemek i\u00e7in bana kat\u0131lacak… Tam bir parti olacak.<\/p>\n

\"solo<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’a yaln\u0131z seyahat etmeyi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyor ama \u015f\u00fcpheleriniz mi var? \u0130\u015fte birka\u00e7 SSS, ama k\u0131saca: medyay\u0131 dinlemeyin, gidip kendiniz g\u00f6r\u00fcn!<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’a Seyahat Etmek G\u00fcvenli mi?<\/h2>\n

Kesinlikle. Uluslararas\u0131 siyasi arenadaki k\u00f6t\u00fc \u015f\u00f6hretine ra\u011fmen \u0130ran \/ Tahran yaln\u0131z seyahat edenler i\u00e7in inan\u0131lmaz derecede g\u00fcvenli bir yerdir. \u0130ran halk\u0131 dost canl\u0131s\u0131 ve misafirperverdir ve hukukun kat\u0131 kurallar\u0131 \u00e7o\u011fu bat\u0131 \u00fclkesinden daha fazla bar\u0131\u015f, huzur ve d\u00fczen sa\u011flar. \u0130ran’\u0131n Londra’dan \u00e7ok daha g\u00fcvenli oldu\u011fu kesin.<\/p>\n

Amerikal\u0131lar \u0130ran’a Seyahat Edebilir mi?<\/h2>\n

Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz y\u0131llarda Amerikal\u0131lar (\u0130ngilizler gibi) \u0130ran’\u0131 organize, devlet onayl\u0131 bir tur grubunun par\u00e7as\u0131 olarak ziyaret edebiliyor ve yanlar\u0131nda her zaman bir rehber bulundurmalar\u0131 gerekiyordu. Ancak, Amerika Birle\u015fik Devletleri’nin \u0130ranl\u0131lara y\u00f6nelik seyahat yasa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 takiben, \u0130ran’\u0131n da ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k vermesi muhtemel g\u00f6r\u00fcnmektedir. G\u00fcncel bilgiler i\u00e7in el\u00e7ili\u011finize dan\u0131\u015f\u0131n.<\/p>\n

\"Iran<\/p>\n

\u0130ran’da Yap\u0131lacak En \u0130yi \u015eeyler Nelerdir?<\/h2>\n

\u0130ran’\u0131n cazibe merkezleri say\u0131s\u0131zd\u0131r ve \u015f\u00fcphesiz seyahatinizi uzatacaks\u0131n\u0131z! \u0130ran’\u0131 kendi ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131za gezmek i\u00e7in bir ay iyi bir s\u00fcredir ve bu s\u00fcre i\u00e7inde \u00fclkenin ba\u015fl\u0131ca turistik yerlerinin \u00e7o\u011funu g\u00f6rebilmeniz gerekir. Muhtemelen seyahatiniz birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn ge\u00e7irmek i\u00e7in harika bir yer olan Tahran’da ba\u015flayacakt\u0131r. Persepolis antik kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 \u00fclkenin en \u00f6nemli cazibe merkezidir, ancak \u0130ran’\u0131n Kapadokya’ya cevab\u0131 olan Kandovan da benim i\u00e7in ayn\u0131 derecede iyidir. \u0130ran’\u0131n ikinci \u015fehri \u015eiraz, \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 Mescid-i Nas\u0131r-al-Molk Camii’ne ev sahipli\u011fi yap\u0131yor ve b\u00fcy\u00fcl\u00fc, g\u00f6kku\u015fa\u011f\u0131 renkli H\u00fcrm\u00fcz adas\u0131 belki de yery\u00fcz\u00fcnde buldu\u011fum cennete en yak\u0131n yer!<\/p>\n

Yazar hakk\u0131nda<\/b>
\nWill Hatton \u015fu anda \u0130ngiltere’den Papua Yeni Gine’ye uzanan 3 y\u0131ll\u0131k bir solo seyahat maceras\u0131nda. The Broke Backpacker<\/a>‘da takip edin.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":163,"featured_media":138233,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"hw_hurry":"","hw_related":"[{\"id\":242814,\"score\":0.57950000000000001509903313490212894976139068603515625,\"hook\":\"\"},{\"id\":1290512,\"score\":0.60819999999999996287414205653476528823375701904296875,\"hook\":\"\"},{\"id\":228776,\"score\":0.57150000000000000799360577730112709105014801025390625,\"hook\":\"\"},{\"id\":242599,\"score\":0.566500000000000003552713678800500929355621337890625,\"hook\":\"\"},{\"id\":243914,\"score\":0.5904000000000000358824081558850593864917755126953125,\"hook\":\"\"},{\"id\":1278961,\"score\":0.55679999999999996163069226895458996295928955078125,\"hook\":\"\"}]","footnotes":""},"categories":[18274],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-268332","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized-tr","wpbf-post"],"yoast_head":"\n\u0130ran'a Seyahat - Otostop, Tinder ve 30 G\u00fcnl\u00fck Evlilik<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u0130ran'a seyahat ederseniz buran\u0131n k\u00fclt\u00fcr, tarih ve son derece misafirperver insanlarla dolu bir \u00fclke oldu\u011funu fark edeceksiniz. 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