M&M guesthouse

In the colder months, Ulaanbaatar has a sleepy feel that suits its status as the capital of the most sparsely populated country on earth. Yet it comes to life in summertime, with outdoor markets and streets bustling with people. Ulaanbaatar is also where you'll probably land on arrival in Mongolia. From here, you can organise tours to explore the country's unspoilt landscapes – whether camel riding in the Gobi Desert, staying with nomads in gers (yurts) out on the steppe or trekking in the snow-capped Altai Mountains. 

Hostels in Ulaanbaatar are characterised by their friendly feel. They're often locally run places, with some owned by former tour guides who have a wealth of useful knowledge. Want a taste of the scenery to come? Pick an Ulaanbaatar hostel with awe-inspiring views of the surrounding mountains. Ulaanbaatar hostels with book exchanges are handy for grabbing a new read before heading out into the steppe. If you're planning on moving on towards China next, choose a hostel with visa services to help you sort the necessary documents. 

The city is centred on the huge Sükhbaatar Square, which is where you'll also find Mongolia's main museums and government offices. A couple of blocks away is Baga Toiru, a wide street lined with poplars where there are international restaurants, including Korean and Mexican. There's also an informal neighbourhood known as the Ger District close to the centre where former nomads have set up home in big white tents after coming to the city to find work. 

A couple of ornate Buddhist temples survived Communist times in Mongolia, including the restored Gandantegchinlen Monastery, which is still home to more than 150 monks. There's also the early 1900s Choijin Lama Temple complex. Swing by the National Museum of Mongolia to dig deep into the country's past. Zaisan Hill, a 10-minute drive or short walk from the centre, is worth visiting for views out over the city from the large, colourful Soviet memorial.

If you're flying in, you'll arrive at Ulaanbaatar's Chinggis Khaan Airport. You can reach the city centre from here by bus or taxi in around 20 minutes. For taxis, make sure to agree a price beforehand as drivers generally won't use the meter. Buses are convenient, but you'll need to purchase a U Money card from a bus kiosk and tap on and off to use it.