Victoria
TransportThe capital under the Cittadella, and the bus hub.

The second island's capital, under a hilltop citadel, and the base for a slower few days: temples older than the pyramids, red-sand beaches and the best diving in the Mediterranean.
Gozo is Malta's second island, a twenty-five-minute ferry from the main one, and it feels like a different country: greener, more rural and much slower, with farms, stone villages and a coastline of cliffs and bays.
Victoria, known locally as Rabat, is its capital, in the middle of the island under the Cittadella, a walled citadel on a hill. Every bus on Gozo starts from here.
The island has Ġgantija, one of the oldest free-standing stone buildings in the world, older than Stonehenge and the pyramids, and some of the best diving in Europe. Two or three nights is right. It rewards a slower pace.
Victoria is the transport hub. The coastal villages of Marsalforn and Xlendi are quieter bases by the sea.
The capital under the Cittadella, and the bus hub.
A seaside village on the north coast, with restaurants and diving.
A small bay in a cliff inlet on the south-west coast.
The ferry port, with fish restaurants.
Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Climb to the Cittadella, the walled citadel above Victoria, and walk the ramparts for a view over the whole island. Inside are the cathedral, whose flat ceiling is painted to look like a dome, and small museums.
Ġgantija, near Xagħra, is a pair of megalithic temples built more than five thousand years ago, and one of the most important prehistoric sites in the world.
The coast is the rest of the island. Ramla Bay, on the north coast, has red-orange sand. Dwejra, in the west, has the Inland Sea, a lagoon connected to the open sea through a tunnel in the cliff, and the Blue Hole, one of the best dive sites in the Mediterranean; the Azure Window arch collapsed into the sea in 2017.
The salt pans at Xwejni, cut into the rock by the sea, and the narrow inlet of Wied il-Għasri are the island's best quiet corners.
The Cittadella is free to walk around, and the ramparts have the best view on the island. It-Tokk, the main square below, has a morning market.
The beaches, the salt pans and the coastal walks are free.
Swimming at Dwejra, Xlendi and Wied il-Għasri costs nothing.
Gozo has its own food. Ġbejniet, small sheep's cheeses, fresh, dried or peppered, are the island's speciality. The Gozitan ftira, a thin bread baked with potatoes, tomatoes and cheese, is closer to a pizza.
The island makes its own wine, and the fish restaurants of Xlendi and Marsalforn serve the day's catch.
Prices are lower than on Malta in the villages; the seafront restaurants charge more.
Gozo is quiet at night. Victoria has a few bars around It-Tokk, and Marsalforn and Xlendi have bars on the water in summer.
Victoria has two rival opera houses, the Aurora and the Astra, which stage full productions in October.
For clubs, Malta's Paceville is a ferry and a bus away.
The Gozo Channel ferry runs from Ċirkewwa on Malta to Mġarr on Gozo around the clock, taking about twenty-five minutes. You pay only on the way back, about €4.65 return for a foot passenger. Fast ferries also run from Valletta to Mġarr in about forty-five minutes.
Buses radiate from Victoria to the villages and beaches, on the same tickets as Malta: €2 in winter, €2.50 in summer, or the €25 seven-day Explore card. They are less frequent than on Malta.
A scooter, bike or hire car makes the island much easier to explore.
Gozo is slightly cheaper than Malta for food, but has few hostels, so budget beds are limited. Guesthouses and farmhouse rooms are the alternative.
A careful day is €45 to €65. The costs that add up are diving and car or scooter hire.
The ferry is cheap, and the beaches and walks are free.
Gozo is very safe.
The coast is the risk. The cliffs have no railings, and the sea at Dwejra and the Blue Hole can be rough; people have been hurt swimming there in bad conditions. Dive only with a registered centre.
The roads are narrow and winding. Drive on the left.
Emergency number is 112.
The whole island is a short bus ride from Victoria.

A red-sand beach under green hills.

The Blue Lagoon, best early or late.
Gozo's carnival in Nadur is the strangest in Malta.
An unofficial, spontaneous carnival of dark and satirical costumes.
The feast of the Assumption, with the island's biggest festa.
Full opera productions from Victoria's two rival opera houses.
April to June and September to October. July and August are hot and busy with day-trippers.
Average highs. The sea is warm from June to November, and diving is good all year.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.
Transport assumes buses. Diving and scooter hire cost extra.
The ones we get asked most.
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