Downtown
BudgetAround the Roman Theatre and the souqs.

A city of white stone spread over hills, with a Roman theatre and a hilltop citadel in the centre, the best food in Jordan, and Jerash, the Dead Sea and Madaba all within an hour.
Amman was Philadelphia to the Romans, and their theatre and the temple on the Citadel hill still stand above downtown. Today it is a modern capital of white limestone houses spread across more than a dozen hills.
It is friendly, safe and easy, with excellent food, cafés and a lively young scene around Rainbow Street and Jabal Amman.
Amman is also the base for Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman cities anywhere, forty minutes to the north. Two or three days is right.
Downtown, Al-Balad, around the Roman Theatre and the souqs, has the cheapest hostels and the best street food, though it is noisy. Jabal Amman, on the hill above, has Rainbow Street's cafés and bars and is more relaxed. Jabal al-Weibdeh, next to it, is an arty neighbourhood of galleries and coffee shops.
Around the Roman Theatre and the souqs.
Rainbow Street, relaxed and central.
Galleries and coffee shops.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 8 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Amman is built across a series of hills, jabals, with the old downtown in the valley at their centre, and is the most relaxed capital in the region.
Climb to the Citadel, on the highest hill, for the columns of the Temple of Hercules, the Umayyad Palace and the best views over the city. Below it, the Roman Theatre, carved into the hillside in the second century, seats six thousand; climb to the top row. The Jordan Museum displays fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls and the 'Ain Ghazal statues, among the oldest human figures ever made, about nine thousand years old.
Walk downtown's souqs, from the gold souq to the spice and vegetable markets, and eat falafel at Hashem, a downtown institution, and kunafa, warm cheese pastry, from Habibah. The blue-domed King Abdullah I Mosque welcomes visitors outside prayer times, with robes provided.
In the evening, Rainbow Street, in Jabal Amman, fills with people in its cafés, bars and rooftops.
Jerash, about forty minutes north, is one of the best-preserved Roman cities anywhere, with colonnaded streets, theatres and a hippodrome. The Dead Sea, Madaba's mosaic map and Mount Nebo are all within an hour.
Walking downtown's souqs and the steps between the jabals is free, and so is Rainbow Street in the evening.
The King Abdullah I Mosque charges a small fee; the outside of the Grand Husseini Mosque, downtown, and the views from the hilltops cost nothing. The Citadel and Roman Theatre are included in the Jordan Pass.
Jordanian food is generous. Mansaf, lamb cooked in fermented dried yoghurt, jameed, served over rice and flatbread, is the national dish, eaten at celebrations and best tried in a traditional restaurant. Maqluba, an upside-down rice dish, and galayet bandora, stewed tomatoes, are home cooking.
Breakfast is falafel, hummus and foul, fava beans, with bread; Hashem, downtown, serves them around the clock. Kunafa, warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup, is the dessert, best at Habibah. Arabic coffee with cardamom is offered everywhere.
A street meal is €2 to €4; a restaurant meal €8 to €15.
Amman has a real nightlife, mostly in Jabal Amman and Weibdeh: Rainbow Street's cafés and rooftop bars, cocktail bars and a few clubs in Abdoun and Sweifieh. Alcohol is legal and served in licensed bars and restaurants, though expensive.
Shisha cafés, argileh, stay busy late, and during Ramadan the city comes alive after iftar.
A beer is €6 to €9.
Queen Alia International Airport is about 45 minutes from the centre; the Airport Express bus runs to the North bus station, and Careem and Uber are reliable.
Taxis, Careem and Uber cover the city cheaply; yellow taxis should use the meter. Amman is hilly and spread out, so walking is best only downtown and in Jabal Amman.
JETT buses reach Petra in about three and a half to four hours, and Aqaba in about four. Minibuses reach Jerash and Madaba from the North and South bus stations. Many travellers hire a car to reach the Dead Sea, the castles and the south.
Amman is mid-priced. Dorms start around €12 and a careful day is €35 to €50.
The Jordan Pass, bought online before you fly, covers the visa fee if you stay at least three nights, plus entry to Petra and about 40 other sites, including Jerash, the Amman Citadel and Wadi Rum. It comes in three versions, for one, two or three days in Petra, from about JD 70 to JD 80. A taxi across the city is €2 to €5, and falafel under €2.
The currency is the Jordanian dinar (JOD), a strong currency, at roughly €1.25 to the dinar; prices here are euro equivalents. Cards work in cities and hotels; carry cash for taxis, small restaurants and Petra's stalls.
Amman is very safe, with low crime, and Jordanians are known for their hospitality.
Check your government's travel advice before booking, as tension in the wider region can change the situation; Jordan itself has remained stable and welcoming.
Dress modestly, especially away from Jabal Amman and Abdoun; cover shoulders and knees. Women travelling alone may get unwanted attention; sit in the back of taxis.
Emergency number is 911.
A Roman city, the lowest point on earth and the mosaic town.

One of the best-preserved Roman cities anywhere.

Float at about 430 metres below sea level.

A twelfth-century Islamic castle.

The mosaic map and Mount Nebo.
The Jerash Festival brings music to the Roman city in summer.
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