Staré Mesto
First-timersThe old town: St Martin's, the squares, the castle above and most of the beds.

A small baroque old town under a castle on the Danube, a bridge with a flying saucer on top, and Vienna an hour away at twice the price.
Bratislava was for centuries Pressburg or Pozsony — a German- and Hungarian-speaking city that served as the Hungarian capital and coronation seat while the Ottomans held Buda. Eleven Hungarian kings and eight queens were crowned in St Martin's Cathedral between 1563 and 1830.
It has only been the capital of an independent Slovakia since 1993, and the city still feels as though it is growing into the role.
The old town is compact, baroque and easy to cover in an afternoon. Above it stands the castle, a white rectangular block with a tower at each corner that locals compare to an upturned table.
The twentieth century is visible everywhere: Most SNP, the bridge with a flying saucer restaurant on its pylon, the inverted pyramid of the Slovak Radio building, and across the Danube Petržalka, one of the largest communist-era housing estates in central Europe.
Vienna is an hour away by train or boat. Two days here is plenty, and Bratislava is a common base for doing both.
A compact old town on the north bank, and a concrete city on the south.
The old town: St Martin's, the squares, the castle above and most of the beds.
The slopes below the castle: quieter streets and guesthouses with views over the Danube.
Across the Danube: one of central Europe's largest panel-block estates, with cheap rooms and a park.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 7 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk the old town. It is small, pedestrianised and covered in an afternoon: the Main Square, the Old Town Hall, St Michael's Gate — the only surviving medieval city gate — and St Martin's Cathedral, where Hungarian monarchs were crowned for nearly three centuries. A gilded crown tops its spire.
Look out for Čumil, a bronze man leaning out of a manhole on Panská street. There are several of these bronze figures around the old town and finding them is part of the walk.
Climb up to the castle for the view over the Danube and into Austria. The grounds are free; the museum inside is about €10.
The Blue Church — the Church of St Elizabeth — is an art nouveau building painted entirely in pale blue, inside and out, a short walk from the centre. Free.
The UFO observation deck on Most SNP, about €10, gives the best view of the city and the concrete of Petržalka across the river.
Devín Castle, a ruin on a cliff where the Morava meets the Danube, is twenty minutes out by bus.
The old town is free, and so are the bronze statues scattered through it — Čumil in his manhole is the famous one.
The castle grounds and terraces are free and give the view over the Danube.
The Blue Church is free to see and usually open.
Slavín, the Soviet war memorial on the hill above the city, is free and quiet, with views across the rooftops.
The Danube embankment and the Sad Janka Kráľa park in Petržalka, one of the oldest public parks in central Europe, are free.
At Devín, the Gate of Freedom memorial marks those killed trying to cross the Iron Curtain here into Austria. The castle charges; the memorial and riverbank do not.
Hearty and cheap by the standards of its neighbours. A main is €8 to €15 and lunch menus €6 to €9.
Bryndzové halušky is the national dish: small potato dumplings with bryndza, a soft sheep's cheese, and bacon on top. It is filling, it is everywhere, and it is the thing to order.
Kapustnica, a sour cabbage soup with sausage, is the winter staple and the Christmas dish.
Kofola, the herbal cola developed in communist Czechoslovakia, is still more popular than the western brands here and is served on tap.
Slovakia makes decent wine in the Small Carpathians just north of the city.
Borovička is the local juniper spirit, and a beer is €2.50 to €4.
The old town is the centre of it, with bars concentrated around the main squares and the streets running off them.
It has a steady stag and hen trade at weekends, drawn by cheap flights and cheap beer, and parts of the old town cater to it. The quieter and more local bars are on the edges of the old town and around the university.
A beer is €2.50 to €4 and cocktails €6 to €10.
In summer, bars and terraces open along the Danube embankment.
Bratislava is small and the scene reflects that — lively enough for two nights, and Vienna is an hour away for more.
The old town is small and walkable, and trams and buses cover the rest of the city for around €1 a ride.
Validate your ticket when you board. Inspectors check and fines apply.
Bratislava airport is twenty minutes by bus 61. Vienna airport is about an hour by direct bus and is often the cheaper way in.
Trains to Vienna take about an hour and run frequently, and in summer boats run along the Danube between the two capitals.
Budapest is about two and a half hours by train and Prague about four. Košice, at the other end of the country, is five to six hours.
Cheap for a eurozone capital, and far cheaper than Vienna an hour away. Dorms are €15 to €30, a main €8 to €15, and a beer €2.50 to €4.
A day is €35 to €65.
Slovakia uses the euro, so prices are directly comparable.
The old town, the castle grounds, the Blue Church and Slavín are free. The castle museum and the UFO deck are about €10 each.
Lunch menus at €6 to €9 are the best value in the city.
A lot of visitors use Bratislava as a cheaper base for Vienna, and it works well.
Bratislava is a safe city and crime against visitors is low.
Pickpocketing happens in the old town and around the main station, at ordinary levels.
The weekend stag trade concentrates in parts of the old town and occasionally involves inflated bills or aggressive door staff at venues aimed at it. Check prices before ordering and avoid places that use street promoters.
Taxis hailed on the street have a history of overcharging. Use Bolt or Uber.
The Danube is fast and industrial, and not safe for swimming in the city.
Emergency number is 112.
Vienna, a cliff-top ruin and a wine country, all within an hour.

A different country and a far more expensive one, easy as a day trip.

A ruin on a cliff at the meeting of the Morava and the Danube, with the Gate of Freedom Iron Curtain memorial below.

Hungary's capital, an easy trip south-east.
A recreated coronation in the streets, and wine cellars opening their doors.
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A good scene in and around the old town, at prices well below Vienna's. Live from Hostelworld.
Sustainable
April to June and September to October. December has good Christmas markets.
Average highs. Bratislava shares Vienna's climate — warm summers, cold grey winters, and excellent springs and autumns.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros — Slovakia uses them.
Slovakia is in the eurozone, so these are the prices you will actually pay.
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