Altstadt
First-timersThe old town: the bridges, painted squares, the lake and most of the beds.

A covered wooden bridge from the fourteenth century, a lake ringed by mountains, and the steepest cogwheel railway in the world climbing straight up behind the old town.
Lucerne sits where the Reuss river leaves Lake Lucerne, with mountains rising on every side, and it is the Switzerland people picture before they arrive.
The Chapel Bridge, a covered wooden footbridge first built in the fourteenth century, crosses the river at an angle with its stone water tower beside it. Much of it burned in 1993 and was rebuilt, and the painted panels under its roof were partly restored and partly lost. It is still the oldest covered wooden bridge in Europe in spirit, and the image of the city.
The Lion Monument, a dying lion carved into a cliff face to commemorate Swiss guards killed in the French Revolution, was described by Mark Twain as the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.
Behind the city, Mount Pilatus is reached by the steepest cogwheel railway on earth, and Mount Rigi by the first mountain railway in Europe.
It is heavily visited and expensive. Two days, with a mountain.
An old town on the river, with the lake in front and mountains behind.
The old town: the bridges, painted squares, the lake and most of the beds.
Across the river: the station, the boats and cheaper rooms a short walk from everything.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 8 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk across the Chapel Bridge and look up at the painted panels under the roof. It is free and it is the heart of the city. The Spreuer Bridge, further along the river, is the older-looking and quieter of the two covered bridges, with a Dance of Death painted inside.
See the Lion Monument, carved into a cliff face in 1820–21 for the Swiss guards killed defending the Tuileries in 1792. Free.
Do the Golden Round Trip to Pilatus: a lake boat to Alpnachstad, the world's steepest cogwheel railway up at a 48 per cent gradient, and a cable car down to Kriens. It is expensive, and the Swiss Travel Pass gives a good discount. The cog railway runs in summer only.
Mount Rigi, the Queen of the Mountains, is the alternative, reached by Europe's first mountain railway.
The Swiss Museum of Transport is the most visited museum in the country, and good.
Walk the Musegg Wall, the old city walls, with several towers you can climb for free in season.
The Chapel Bridge and the Spreuer Bridge are free.
The Lion Monument is free.
The Musegg Wall and several of its towers are free to climb in season.
The lakeside promenades are free and run for kilometres.
The old town's painted squares cost nothing.
Expensive and tourist-oriented around the bridges. A main is CHF 30 to 45 (about €32–48).
Luzerner Chügelipastete, a vol-au-vent filled with veal and mushrooms in cream sauce, is the local dish.
Rösti and fondue are everywhere.
Coop and Migros are the budget answer.
A beer is CHF 7 to 10 (about €7.50–10.50).
Quiet. A few bars in the old town and along the river, busier in summer.
A beer is CHF 7 to 10.
Fasnacht in February or March is the exception, with days of loud brass bands, masks and costume filling the old town from early morning.
The old town is compact and walkable.
Lake boats, including historic paddle steamers, run to Pilatus, Rigi and the lakeside villages, and are covered by the Swiss Travel Pass.
Zurich is about forty-five minutes by train and Bern about an hour. Interlaken is about two hours on the scenic Luzern–Interlaken Express.
Expensive. Dorms are CHF 40 to 65 (about €42–69), a main CHF 30 to 45, and a beer CHF 7 to 10.
A day is €95 to €160 before mountains.
The mountain excursions are the real cost: the Pilatus round trip is expensive at full price, and the Swiss Travel Pass or Half Fare Card makes a big difference.
The bridges, the Lion Monument and the walls are free.
Lucerne is very safe.
Pickpocketing occurs in the crowds around the Chapel Bridge in summer.
On the mountains, weather changes quickly and cloud can hide everything within minutes. Check the webcams before paying for an excursion.
The lake is cold. Swim at the lido.
Emergency number is 112.
Three mountains and a lake full of steamers.

The Golden Round Trip, with the world's steepest cogwheel railway.

The Queen of the Mountains, with Europe's first mountain railway.

A glacier with a rotating cable car and a cliff walk.

The biggest city, with river swimming.

Via the scenic Luzern–Interlaken Express.
A carnival in late winter and a classical music festival in summer.
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A small scene near the station and the old town. Live from Hostelworld.
Sustainable
Sustainable
May to September for the mountains. Fasnacht in late winter.
Average highs. The Pilatus cog railway runs only from about May to November; in winter use the cable cars from Kriens.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros — you will pay in Swiss francs, at roughly 1.06 euros to the franc.
Shown in euros for comparison; you pay in Swiss francs. The doing line assumes a mountain excursion.
The ones we get asked most.
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