Piotrkowska
First-timersThe long main street and its side streets.

Poland's great textile city, reinvented: red-brick factories turned into shopping centres, museums and bars, a film school that trained Polański and Wajda, and one of Europe's longest shopping streets.
In 1820, Łódź was a small town. By 1914, it was one of the biggest textile centres in Europe, built by Polish, German and Jewish industrialists who filled it with factories, workers' housing and their own palaces. Its Jewish community was among the largest in Europe until the Nazis confined it in the Litzmannstadt Ghetto, the last in Poland to be liquidated.
After communism, the mills closed and the city declined. It is now reinventing itself, turning its red-brick factories into cultural centres, lofts, bars and a vast shopping complex, and it has become one of the most interesting cities in Poland for anyone curious about industry, film and street art.
Łódź is cheap, unpolished and an hour and a half from Warsaw. Two days is right.
The centre runs along Piotrkowska street. Stay near it.
The long main street and its side streets.
The old Poznański factory and palace.
The Scheibler mill village.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk Piotrkowska, the main street, about four kilometres long and one of the longest shopping streets in Europe, lined with nineteenth-century buildings, bars and restaurants. Its pavement has a walk of fame of stars for Polish film.
Manufaktura, the former factory complex of the industrialist Izrael Poznański, is now a shopping centre, museum and square, and his palace next door is the city museum. Księży Młyn, the Scheibler family's mill village of workers' houses, is one of the most complete industrial settlements in Europe.
EC1, a former power station, houses a science centre and a planetarium. Muzeum Sztuki is one of the oldest museums of modern art in the world.
The Radegast station, from which the Jews of the ghetto were deported, is now a memorial. The Jewish Cemetery is one of the largest in Europe.
The city is covered in large murals, some of the best street art in Poland.
Piotrkowska, the murals, Manufaktura's square and Księży Młyn are free.
The Radegast station memorial is free.
OFF Piotrkowska, a former factory courtyard full of bars and shops, is free to wander.
Łódź is cheap and has a lively food scene along Piotrkowska and at OFF Piotrkowska. Milk bars and pierogi restaurants serve cheap Polish meals.
A meal is €7 to €14.
Łódź has a lively nightlife, driven by students and the art and film schools. OFF Piotrkowska, in a former factory, is the centre of it, with bars and clubs in old industrial buildings.
A beer is €2.50 to €3.50.
The centre is long rather than compact, and trams run along much of it.
Łódź Fabryczna, the main station, is underground and next to the centre. Trains reach Warsaw in about an hour and a half.
Łódź has a small airport with a few flights; most people arrive by train from Warsaw.
Łódź is one of the cheapest big cities in Poland. Dorms start around €10. A careful day is €30 to €40.
The currency is the złoty, not the euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere; use a bank ATM and decline the machine's currency conversion.
Łódź is safe. Some areas away from the centre can feel rough at night; stay around Piotrkowska.
Emergency number is 112.
Most visitors come for the city itself.

The capital.
The Light Move festival turns the city's buildings into screens.
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May to September is best. The Light Move festival lights up the city in autumn.
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