Rynek
First-timersThe market square and the old town.

A city of islands and bridges on the Oder, with a market square to rival Kraków's, a huge student population and hundreds of little bronze dwarves hidden in the streets.
Wrocław has been Bohemian, Habsburg, Prussian and German, as Breslau, and it became Polish only in 1945, when its German population was expelled and replaced by Poles, many of them displaced from Lwów in the east. The city was heavily damaged in the war and rebuilt.
It is built across a dozen islands in the river Oder, connected by more than a hundred bridges. At its heart is the Rynek, one of the largest market squares in Europe, with a Gothic town hall in the middle.
Wrocław is young, lively and full of students, with a strong café and bar culture. And it has dwarves: hundreds of small bronze figures scattered through the streets, a symbol of the anti-communist Orange Alternative movement. Two or three days is right.
The centre is compact. Stay near the Rynek, or in Nadodrze for a more local feel.
The market square and the old town.
The cathedral island.
North of the river, with cafés and street art.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 8 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Start in the Rynek, with its Gothic Town Hall and colourful houses, and the Salt Square next to it. Look down: the dwarves are everywhere. Pick up a map and go hunting.
Cross to Ostrów Tumski, the cathedral island, the oldest part of the city. At dusk, a lamplighter lights the gas lamps by hand. The cathedral tower has a lift and a view.
The University's Aula Leopoldina is a spectacular baroque hall, and the Mathematical Tower above it has a view over the old town.
The Racławice Panorama is a huge circular painting of a 1794 battle. The Centennial Hall, a pioneering concrete dome from 1913, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a multimedia fountain beside it and the Japanese Garden in the park.
The Rynek, the dwarves and the islands are free, and the dwarf hunt is the city's great free game.
Ostrów Tumski and the lamplighter at dusk are free.
The multimedia fountain by the Centennial Hall runs shows in the warmer months, free.
Wrocław has a good, cheap food scene, with milk bars, pierogi restaurants and a strong café culture. The market hall, Hala Targowa, is the place for produce and cheap lunches.
The city has a growing craft beer scene.
A meal is €8 to €15.
Wrocław has a lively nightlife driven by its students. The Rynek and the streets around it are full of bars, and the passage of Niepolda, off the square, is a cluster of bars and clubs.
A beer is €2.50 to €4.
The centre is walkable. Trams and buses cover the rest.
From the airport, bus 106 runs to the centre in about half an hour.
Trains reach Kraków in about three hours, Warsaw in about three and a half, Poznań in about two and a half, and Berlin and Prague by train or bus.
Wrocław is cheap. Dorms start around €10, a meal €8 to €15. A careful day is €35 to €45.
The currency is the złoty, not the euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere; use a bank ATM and decline the machine's currency conversion.
Wrocław is safe, with low crime.
The nightlife around the Rynek has the usual late-night issues. Use ride-hailing apps rather than street taxis.
Emergency number is 112.
Castles and mountains in Lower Silesia.

One of the largest castles in Poland, with tunnels built by the Nazis.

Mountains on the Czech border, with hiking and skiing.
The beer festival in May and the Christmas market are the big two.
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The top-rated places to stay in Wrocław right now, live from Hostelworld.
May to September is best. The Christmas market is one of the best in Poland.
Average highs. Wrocław is one of the warmest cities in Poland.
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Prices are in złoty locally; these are euro equivalents.
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