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First-timersThe harbour and Storgata.

A lively university city 350 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, with northern lights all winter, midnight sun all summer, and fjords and mountains in every direction.
Tromsø sits on an island in a ring of mountains, far above the Arctic Circle, and it is the largest city in northern Norway. It was the starting point for polar expeditions, and it still has the northernmost university in the world and a lively, young population.
The seasons define it. From late November to mid-January the sun never rises, and from late May to late July it never sets. From September to March, the northern lights are regularly overhead, and Tromsø is the most convenient base in Norway to see them.
Three or four nights is right, to give the aurora and the weather a chance.
The centre is compact and on the island. Stay near the harbour.
The harbour and Storgata.
Across the bridge, by the cathedral and cable car.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
The northern lights are the reason most people come in winter. They are visible from September to March on clear dark nights, and tours drive out of the city to find clear skies; they are never guaranteed.
Take the Fjellheisen cable car up to Storsteinen for the view over the city and the mountains. Across the bridge, the Arctic Cathedral, a white triangular church from 1965, is lit up at night.
The Polar Museum tells the story of the Arctic explorers, and Polaria has an Arctic aquarium. Dog sledding, reindeer sledding with Sámi hosts and fjord trips run in winter; in summer, the midnight sun makes hiking possible around the clock.
Mack, one of the northernmost breweries in the world, has its beer hall, Ølhallen, in the centre.
Watching the northern lights from a dark spot away from the city lights is free; tours are for chasing clear skies.
The walk up to Storsteinen, instead of the cable car, is free, and so is the view from the bridge.
The harbour and the old wooden houses of the centre cost nothing.
Arctic food means cod, king crab, reindeer and whale. The fish and seafood are excellent, and expensive in restaurants.
Supermarkets are the budget answer, as everywhere in Norway.
A restaurant main is €30 to €45.
Tromsø has a surprisingly lively nightlife for a city of 78,000, thanks to its students and the long dark winters. Storgata, the main street, has most of the bars.
Ølhallen, the Mack brewery's beer hall, is the classic first stop. A beer is €10 to €13.
The centre is walkable. Tromsø Airport is a short bus ride away, and most people arrive by air.
The coastal ship calls here on its way north and south. There is no railway to Tromsø.
For the northern lights, fjords and the mountains, tours pick up from the centre. Driving in winter needs experience with ice and snow.
Tromsø is expensive, and the winter tours add up quickly: northern lights, dog sledding and whale trips run €100 to €300 each. Dorms start around €38.
A careful day without tours is €70 to €90.
The currency is the Norwegian krone, and Norway is close to cashless: cards work everywhere. Prices here are euro equivalents.
Tromsø is very safe.
Winter is the risk: temperatures well below zero, ice on every surface and very little daylight. Dress properly, and wear ice grips on your shoes.
Avalanches are a real risk in the mountains around the city in winter. Go with a guide.
Emergency numbers are 112 for police, 113 for ambulance and 110 for fire.
Fjords, islands and the Arctic wilderness.

Driving out of the city to find clear skies.

White beaches and mountains on the islands west of the city.

Jagged peaks rising straight from the fjords.

Norway's second-largest island, with dramatic peaks.
The film festival and the northern lights festival fill the darkest weeks.
Films in the polar night, including outdoor screenings in the snow.
Classical and contemporary music.
Reindeer racing and Sámi culture.
A marathon run under the midnight sun.
The top-rated places to stay in Tromsø right now, live from Hostelworld.
September to March for the northern lights; late May to July for the midnight sun.
Average highs. Polar night runs from late November to mid-January.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.
Prices are in kroner locally; these are euro equivalents. Excludes winter tours at €100–300 each.
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