What to do in Recife and how to live the concept “My Country Pernambuco!”

You can prepare your plate of couscous, order a warm caldinho to accompany your cold beer on the beach and try to learn the passinho. To experience Recife beyond the obvious, you’ll need to be very careful: it’s impossible not to fall in love with everything the capital of Pernambuco has to offer.

Everyone knows that Recife has an incredible Carnival, which takes place both in the capital and on the slopes of Olinda, as well as the beautiful Boa Viagem beach and a lot – a lot – of culture. But it’s in the details that the city finds new ways to win over travellers. It’s no wonder that the inhabitants of Recife will often say that their city is the best in the world. Recife is truly inviting and unique. The locals are even more enchanting. It’s possible to live unique experiences and get to know Recife beyond the tourist attractions, while spending very little.

Want to know more? Check out the tips below and get ready to live the “my country Pernambuco!” concept

Museums: Immerse yourself in Pernambuco’s identity

One of Recife’s strong points is the large number of museums, for all tastes. The good news for backpackers and low-cost travellers is that most of the museums have free admission on Tuesdays. To really get to know the identity of Recife and the entire state of Pernambuco, we suggest you visit the following museums:

Cais do Sertão

This interactive museum holds great emotions for those who want to learn more about the figure of the sertanejo and the career of accordion player Luiz Gonzaga, who was born in Exu, on the border between Pernambuco and Ceará. Filled with sensations, this tour is sure to stir your imagination. From the music of Luiz Gonzaga, who sang about the sertão in a unique way, all this scenery is brought to Recife Antigo, on the banks of the Capibaribe River. Many reflections emerge from the reality of the sertão, still so unknown to those who grew up outside the Northeast.

The museum has costumes and various interactive works, including installations with real testimonies from Pernambucans and lots of music. As well as being a space for events, at Cais do Sertão you can learn more about the geographical aspects of the Pernambuco hinterland, its characters and figures, among other contrasting characteristics of these scenarios that are so alive in Brazilian identity.

🏠 Address: Av. Alfredo Lisboa, s/n – Recife neighbourhood
Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm. Saturday and Sunday from 1pm to 5pm
admission: R$10 (full price) and R$5 (half price). Free on Tuesdays.

Paço do Frevo

Paço do Frevo is very close to the first museum on the list and complements this journey to learn more about Pernambuco’s culture. The main attraction at this museum is Frevo, the artistic expression that is the protagonist of Carnival. The place keeps the memory of its origin alive and is an invitation to all who wish to experience the rhythm, which is now recognised as a World Cultural Heritage Site by Unesco.

The museum has many photographs and a very detailed timeline so that everyone can learn about the origins and trajectory of Frevo. Every detail of the space is a reference to the unique energy present at Carnival and how thousands of people are taken by it. The walls and windows covered in excerpts about Frevo are one of the museum’s highlights, as well as, of course, the experiences on offer there, including Frevo classes and a mask-making workshop.

🏠 Address: Praça do Arsenal, s/n – Bairro do Recife
opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm. Saturday and Sunday from 2pm to 6pm.
admission: R$10 (full price) and R$5 (half price). Free on Tuesdays and the first Sunday of the month.

Other museums worth visiting include MAMAM – Museu de Arte Moderna Aloísio Magalhães, Museu do Homem do Nordeste and Museu da Abolição.

Recife: Resistance and living cultural identity

To explore Recife is to allow yourself to get to know the resistance that exists in various places. If you’re looking for good options to get to know Recife’s music scene, for example, you can also learn more about local social movements and collectives. Closely related to the city’s cultural identity, spaces that offer activities outside the tourist circuit also bring great lessons. All the event suggestions below are free.

Armazém do Campo

Inaugurated in May 2019, Armazém do Campo, run by the Landless Rural Workers’ Movement (MST), sells organic products produced in the Movement’s settlements and also from family farmers. This is the first Armazém do Campo in the North and Northeast and more than 70 per cent of the produce is produced in the state of Pernambuco itself. As well as being a place to raise awareness of the importance of the MST in organic production and the revolutions that can arise through agroecology, the Armazém also organises weekly cultural events.

During the day, you can do your market in the shop or have lunch, check out book launches and dialogue circles. Later on, you can enjoy free intimate concerts with local musicians or even evenings of forró and samba. A cold beer or a shot of cachaça to go with it. Certainly a must-see for anyone visiting Recife.

🏠 Address: Rua do Imperador Pedro II and Av. Martins de Barros, 387 – Santo Antônio
opening hours: Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 9am to 8pm. Thursdays and Fridays, 9am to midnight. Saturdays from 7am to 6pm and Sundays from 11am to 7pm.

Coco de Umbigada Cultural Centre

Coco de Beth, as many locals call it, actually takes place in Olinda. However, as many itineraries to Recife end up including the neighbouring city due to its proximity, it’s worth visiting the Coco de Umbigada Cultural Centre, run by Mãe Beth de Oxum, Ialorixá and master of coconut samba. This regional rhythm from the Northeast plays an important role in Pernambuco’s identity. Beth’s Coco is an event full of ancestry, with a lot of respect and homage to Afro religiosity and culture.

The event deserves attention because of all the social work that has been done at the Cultural Centre for over 10 years. In addition to the Sambada de Coco, which takes place every first Saturday of the month, the Centre is known for providing initiatives in the fields of education, technology, communication and art, with a focus on young people from the outskirts of Greater Recife. During the dance of sticking one navel to the other, it’s impossible not to be infected by the unique rhythm of the coconut and all the strength that the trajectory of Mother Beth de Oxum carries.

🏠 Address: Rua João de Lima, 42 – Beco da Macaíba – Guadalupe, Olinda
when? Every first Saturday of the month, from 7pm.

Black Tuesday

The event, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2019, is organised by the Unified Black Movement (MNU) with the support of Recife City Hall. Every Tuesday, a rich programme focused on the culture and identity of the black population takes over the Pátio de São Pedro, in the central region of Recife.

Maracatu groups, samba, hip hop, reggae, coconut and afoxé artists occupy this public space, promoting a plural event full of popular expression. In addition, celebrations of African culture and themed events often complement the weekly programme, during the month of Black Consciousness and on Latin American and Caribbean Black Women’s Day, for example. Terça Negra is just one of the many symbols of the struggle of the black and anti-racist movement in the capital of Pernambuco.

🏠 Address: Pátio de São Pedro – Santo Antônio
when? Every Tuesday from 7pm.

Speaking of music and culture, here’s another great option for you to discover during your stay in Recife:

Vinyl Tuesday

Another street event, Terça do Vinil gives people access to vinyl record culture with free parties full of Brazilian music, especially regional rhythms from Pernambuco and the Northeast. Although DJ 440, responsible for Terça do Vinil, is often present at other parties, such as Balbúrdia, running the event that occupies Recife’s public spaces on Tuesdays is by law.

The event currently takes place in the centre, but its first editions were held in Olinda and it has also been to the Boa Vista and Pina neighbourhoods. Terça do Vinil is the perfect option for those looking for a place to dance a lot and listen to good music with all the quality of vinyl.

🏠 Address: Torre Malakoff – Praça do Arsenal, s/n – Bairro do Recife
when? Every Tuesday, from 18.30.

Explore Recife’s neighbourhoods like a local

Each neighbourhood in Recife has its own characteristics. Before arriving in the city, it’s common to hear the same tips about the same places, but there are attractions that are off the beaten track and can really appeal to backpackers.

Old Recife

Recife Antigo, also known as the Recife neighbourhood, is home to the museums listed in the post, the Malakoff Tower, the Francisco Brennand Sculpture Park and the famous Marco Zero.
You can visit all these attractions in the same day. There, you can take a closer look at some of the historic buildings that are so characteristic of the city.

A must-see is Marco Zero, where you can watch a spectacular sunset. If you like, you can also take a boat across to the Francisco Brennand Sculpture Park, with 90 sculptures by Pernambuco artist Francisco Brennand.
Access to the park is free and the crossing costs less than R$10.

At the Malakoff Tower, as well as enjoying Vinyl Tuesday, you can watch open maracatu rehearsals on Sundays from 5pm. On the same day, Recife Antigo is closed to cars and open to the public. Street markets with food and handicrafts, artistic interventions and people walking, cycling or rollerblading take over the streets of the neighbourhood, bringing a unique energy.

In the same neighbourhood, there is Espaço R.U.A, a corridor with lots of themed street art, perfect for taking photos.

Extra tip: Take advantage of the cycle lanes available on Sunday to explore the city by bike. The routes link Parque da Jaqueira, in the North Zone, and Parque Dona Lindu, in the South Zone, to Marco Zero. Cycling around Recife is a great way to save money and explore the city from a different perspective.

In the Recife neighbourhood, Rua da Moeda and its surroundings are the place to be at night, especially for those looking for affordable bars. In this area, the highlight is Som na Rural, an itinerant musical project by cultural producer Roger de Renor, in collaboration with various local artists.

Várzea

Called by some “the best corner of the city”, this university neighbourhood, which is home to the Federal University of Pernambuco (UFPE), has a number of peculiarities. If you’re looking for more authentic experiences, Várzea is a great neighbourhood to explore. At times, not just there, but in various neighbourhoods in Recife, it’s easy to forget that you’re in a capital city.

One of the highlights of the neighbourhood are the events that take place in Rua da Feira, next to Várzea’s main square. In Recife, it’s also possible to take part in coconut samba and even try out a few steps. There, in addition to coconut, many other regional rhythms, affordable artisanal drinks and attractions organised by collectives and social movements take over the evenings. All this can be seen at República Independente da Várzea.

In addition, there are agroecological fairs, round tables, collective classes and joint efforts, among other initiatives by the Espaço Agroecológico da Várzea to integrate the local community.

Enjoy the Carnival rehearsals

If you’re planning to visit Recife from October onwards, you should take advantage of the Carnival rehearsals. You can find a lot of joy in the streets of the centre and play a little before the official days of revelry. This is a great opportunity to learn more about the street parades, with all the identity and traditional and cultural expressions present in the Carnival of Recife and Olinda. Boi Marinho, for example, has open rehearsals every Tuesday in Rua da Moeda. Each week, different artists contribute to the rehearsal, making the tour a unique experience. Don’t know what Boi Marinho is? It’s a street play that mixes elements of the boi play with those of the Cavalo Marinho, a folkloric expression typical of the Zona da Mata region of Pernambuco.

Other great places to visit in Recife: Jaqueira Park, the São Luiz street cinema, the Joaquim Nabuco Foundation cinemas, the Hermilo Borba Filho Theatre, among others.

Did you like these tips? Now, find out where to stay in Recife

Piratas da Praia Hostel

Once you’ve discovered how to experience Recife beyond the tourist attractions and get to know the city in depth like a true traveller, find out which hostels are the best to stay in:

Recife Antigo Hostel

Strategically located for those who want to explore the attractions of Recife Antigo, this hostel has a bar, restaurant and breakfast for an additional fee. The cleanliness, structure and ambience make this hostel stand out from the rest.

address: Rua da Guia, 117 – Recife Antigo

Piratas da Praia Hostel

This renowned hostel is close to Boa Viagem beach and the airport. The atmosphere is incredible and the staff are constantly praised. It’s the best option for those who want to stay close to the beach and still save on accommodation.

🏠Address: Avenida Conselheiro Aguiar, 2034. Entrance from Rua Professor Osias Ribeiro – Ed. Barão de Camaçari, 3rd floor – Boa Viagem

A Ponte Hostel

In the Santo Amaro neighbourhood, this hostel is a good choice for those looking for savings and easy access to various regions. Shared rooms are available for R$55 in high season. Breakfast is included in the price and the hostel has pleasant living spaces and exceptional staff.

🏠Address: Rua Capitão Lima, 410 – Santo Amaro

📚 About the Author 📚

My name is Júlia Saraiva and I believe that much of life is about exchange and knowing how to see the subtleties. As a backpacker, I’m sure it was the road that taught me about awareness and showed me who I really am. I still want to write a lot about everything I experienced in the Northeast, but I’ll tell you a bit about it on Instagram (https://instagram.com/juliamsaraiva)