What to do in Jericoacoara – tips from a local
I was lucky enough to spend part of my adolescence and adult life living in Fortaleza. And Jericoacoara, 300 kilometres from the capital of Ceará, was a must for holidays with friends and family. In almost twenty years, I’ve watched Jericoacoara transform from a destination known only to a few tourists and kitesurfers into one of the most visited beaches in the Northeast. From the traditional sunset on the dune to the new electronic music clubs, here’s how to enjoy the best of Jeri.
Spend the day at Jijoca Lagoon
That typical Jericoacoara photo – of a hammock immersed in emerald waters surrounded by white sand – is not taken at sea. The setting is the Jijoca Lagoon. Around the water, the kiosks are real restaurants: they serve a good variety of snacks, meals and drinks. It’s the perfect place to spend the whole day leisurely soaking up the sun.
The stretches known as Lagoa do Paraíso and Lagoa Azul – which are actually a single lagoon together with the one at Jijoca – have the same layout: hammocks, kiosks and the ideal climate for letting time pass.
Visit Pedra Furada
One of Jeri’s postcards, Pedra Furada is about a 45-minute walk from the town centre. The walk along the beach can only be done at low tide, so ask your hostel about the sea situation. At high tide you can reach Pedra Furada over the cliffs, but the path is longer, there are climbs, descents and the stony ground can be a little uncomfortable for those wearing sandals.
The best time to take photos is in the morning, when the sun is shining on the rock, with the sea in the background. That marvellous photo with the sun “inside” the rock is taken during sunset, but it only happens between June and August – when the king-star sets in just the right position.
Late afternoon on the Sunset Dune
Watching the sun set over the sea is an attraction in Jericoacoara – people even clap. In the late afternoon, everyone leaves what they’re doing to watch this spectacle and the Sunset Dune, which not coincidentally has this name, is the most popular spot. The climb up the soft sand is tiring, but the view from the top is worth it. Tip for “outsiders”: in Ceará the sun sets early, around 5.50pm, even in summer.
Having your Lençóis Maranhenses moment
Buggy or jeep tours to the east and west coasts are sold by practically every agency in Jericoacoara. The tour to the east side stops at the Dunes and Lagoa da Barrinha, where the white sand interspersed with dark water lagoons has a similar look to the Lençóis Maranhenses. Also on the itinerary is the Sloth Tree, the Blue Lagoon and a stop at the Pedra Furada viewpoint (on top of the cliffs, the tour doesn’t go down to the beach).
Seeing seahorses
The west coast tour has the option (usually paid separately) of a canoe trip on the Guriú river, where the big attraction is seeing seahorses (don’t get too excited, they’re tiny, they fit in the palm of your hand). The route also includes Mangue Seco Beach and Lagoa Grande, in Tatajuba. The lunch stop is at one of the kiosks around the lagoon, where you can zip line and go down the “waterslide” – actually a huge strip of wet plastic that runs from the top of the dune to the lagoon.
End the day at Jeri’s hottest spot
The hottest sunset spot in the village is undoubtedly Café Jeri, a kind of nightclub, only it ends early: the place closes at 20.30. The atmosphere is lively, with electronic music, light shows, circus performances and charming drinks prepared by juggling bartenders. If you want to get a table, arrive before 5pm, even in low season.
Take a windsurfing or kitesurfing lesson
Jericoacoara is one of the best wind and kitesurfing spots in the world, attracting lovers of these sports for decades. For beginners, it’s possible to hire a lesson (with equipment included) at the hostels, tourist agencies and schools dotted around the town and its surroundings. In addition to Jeri, Praia do Preá (12 kilometres from the town centre) is also a kitesurfing spot. The windy season – essential for these activities – runs from July to January.
Eat the first batch at Padaria Santo Antônio
In the days when Jeri received few tourists, the only “restaurant” option at dawn was Padaria Santo Antônio, which opened before sunrise. That’s why it became a hotspot for partygoers, who satisfied their hunger with cheese, banana, coconut and chocolate breads hot from the wood-fired oven.
Eat pastel de arraia, banana pie and prawns in pineapple
Pastel de arraia – a cartilaginous fish often used in regional cuisine – and torta de banana have been sold in kiosks and by street vendors on the beach for many years. More recently, another dish has become a tradition in restaurants: prawns in pineapple. Made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, it’s a must for anyone visiting the city.
Doing nothing
One of the most attractive programmes in Jericoacoara is to enjoy the delicious dolce far niente: sunbathing, having a drink or coconut water by the beach, resting, waking up late and enjoying the local cuisine without rushing. The sea and lagoon waters, warm all year round, are an irresistible invitation to relax.
About the author
Mila de Oliveira is a journalist who loves slow travelling and writing. She believes that travelling is a liberating attitude for women and that’s why she shares her solo travels on the blog Saia Pelo Mundo and on Instagram @saiapelomundo.
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