Walled city
First-timersInside the walls, around the Diamond.

The only complete city walls in Ireland, the Bogside murals and the Peace Bridge across the Foyle. A small, sociable city with a big story, and the best Halloween in Europe.
Derry's walls were built between 1613 and 1619 to protect English and Scottish settlers, and they survived a siege in 1689 without ever being breached. They are the only complete city walls in Ireland, and you can walk the whole circuit in under an hour.
Below the walls is the Bogside, where the civil rights movement and the events of Bloody Sunday in 1972 shaped the Troubles. Its gable-end murals are among the most powerful in Ireland. The city is called Derry by most nationalists and Londonderry officially, and the name itself tells part of its history.
Today it is friendly, musical and sociable, with the Peace Bridge joining the two banks of the river. Two days is right, with Donegal and the Causeway coast close by.
The walled centre is small. Stay inside or just outside the walls.
Inside the walls, around the Diamond.
Below the walls, with the murals.
Across the Peace Bridge, around Ebrington.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk the city walls, with their cannon and views over the Bogside and the river. Inside, St Columb's Cathedral, the Tower Museum and the Guildhall, which is free, cover the city's long history.
Go down into the Bogside to see the murals of the People's Gallery and Free Derry Corner. The Museum of Free Derry tells the story of the civil rights era and Bloody Sunday.
Cross the Peace Bridge, opened in 2011, to Ebrington Square on the other bank.
The Derry Girls mural, off Waterloo Street, is a newer landmark.
The city walls, the Guildhall and the Bogside murals are free.
The Peace Bridge and the walk along the Foyle are free.
Derry's food is hearty and cheap: Ulster fries, pub lunches and fish and chips. The Walled City Brewery, in the old army barracks at Ebrington, brews its own beer.
A pub lunch is £10 to £15.
Derry is sociable and full of music. Waterloo Street, just below the walls, has traditional pubs with sessions most nights, including Peadar O'Donnell's.
A pint is £4.50 to £5.50.
The walled city is small and walkable.
Trains run along the coast to Belfast in about two and a quarter hours, passing the cliffs at Downhill. Buses run to Belfast, Dublin and Donegal.
City of Derry Airport is a short drive away, with a few flights. The border with the Republic is a few kilometres away. There are no checks at the border, but visitors who are not British or Irish citizens need a UK ETA to enter Northern Ireland, including overland from the Republic.
Derry is cheap by UK standards. Dorms start around £18. A careful day is £40 to £55.
Prices rise sharply for Halloween.
The currency is the pound sterling. Cards work almost everywhere, including contactless on buses. Some shops near the border also take euros.
Derry is safe and welcoming.
The city's history is recent and personal. Listen rather than offer opinions, and treat the murals and memorials with respect.
Emergency number is 999 or 112.
Donegal and the Causeway coast are both close.

A cliff-top temple over a long beach.

A stone ring fort on a hill in Donegal with a huge view.

The basalt columns on the north coast.
Derry's Halloween is the largest in Europe.
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