West Lake
First-timersAround the lake, near the metro.

West Lake, with its causeways, pagodas and willows, tea plantations in the hills around it, and the city Marco Polo called the finest in the world. An hour from Shanghai.
A Chinese saying goes: above there is heaven, below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou. Hangzhou was the capital of the Southern Song dynasty, and its West Lake, framed by hills, temples and pagodas, has inspired Chinese poets and painters for a thousand years. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The hills around the lake are covered in tea plantations growing Longjing, dragon well tea, one of China's most famous.
Hangzhou is an hour from Shanghai by high-speed train. Two days is right.
Around West Lake, especially on its eastern shore near Hubin, puts you within walking distance of the lake and the metro. Hefang Street, in the old town, has traditional shops and cheaper guesthouses. The hills west of the lake, around Longjing and Lingyin, are quieter, among tea plantations.
Around the lake, near the metro.
The historic street.
Among the tea plantations.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 11 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Hangzhou, a former imperial capital, is built around West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011 and one of China's most celebrated landscapes, painted and written about for over a thousand years.
Walk or cycle around West Lake, about fifteen kilometres, along the Su and Bai causeways lined with willows and peach trees, past pagodas, gardens and teahouses. Take a boat to the islands, including Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, shown on the one-yuan note.
Lingyin Temple, one of the largest Buddhist temples in China, sits in a forested valley with hundreds of Buddhist rock carvings at Feilai Feng. Leifeng Pagoda, rebuilt, has views over the lake.
The Longjing villages, in the hills west of the lake, grow Longjing, Dragon Well tea, China's most famous green tea; drink it at a farmhouse among the plantations, especially in spring at the harvest.
Hefang Street, in the old town, has traditional shops and snacks. Wuzhen, an hour away, is a canal water town.
West Lake and its causeways are free, and so are many of the gardens and parks around it. Cycling around the lake costs only the bike hire.
The tea villages are free to walk through, and Hefang Street is free to wander.
Hangzhou cuisine is light and delicate. Dongpo pork, slow-braised pork belly named after the poet Su Dongpo, West Lake vinegar fish, and Longjing shrimp, cooked with tea leaves, are the classics. Beggar's chicken, baked in clay, is another.
Longjing tea is drunk everywhere. A meal is €5 to €15.
Hangzhou is relaxed at night: lakeside walks, the West Lake musical fountain, and bars around Nanshan Road and Shuguang Road.
A beer is €3 to €6.
Hangzhou East station has high-speed trains to Shanghai in about an hour and to Suzhou. Xiaoshan Airport is about 40 minutes by metro.
The metro covers the city, and public bicycles and Didi are cheap. Buses reach Lingyin and the tea villages.
Hangzhou is mid-priced. Dorms start around €12 and a careful day is €30 to €45.
West Lake is free; Lingyin Temple and Feilai Feng charge a combined few euros, and Leifeng Pagoda about €5. A boat on the lake is a few euros.
The currency is the yuan (CNY), at roughly 8 yuan to the euro; prices here are euro equivalents. Almost everyone pays by phone: set up Alipay or WeChat Pay with a foreign card before you arrive, and carry some cash as a backup.
Hangzhou is very safe.
West Lake is very crowded on public holidays; go early on weekdays. Google, WhatsApp and Instagram are blocked; use an eSIM with international roaming, and Amap or Baidu Maps for directions. Carry your passport: it is needed for trains, hotels and many sights, which are booked by real name.
Many nationalities can now enter China visa-free for up to 30 days, under a scheme extended to the end of 2026, and 240-hour visa-free transit covers many more; check the rules for your passport before you travel.
Emergency: 110 police, 120 ambulance, 119 fire.
A water town, a thousand islands and tea villages.

A canal water town.

A lake with a thousand islands.

Tea plantations.
The Qiantang River tidal bore is at its biggest around the Mid-Autumn Festival.
A huge tidal wave up the river.
Extremely crowded.
The top-rated places to stay in Hangzhou right now, live from Hostelworld.
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March to May and September to November. Summers are hot. Avoid Golden Week (1–7 October) and Chinese New Year if you can, when the whole country travels.
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Prices are in yuan locally; these are euro equivalents.
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