Assi Ghat
First-timersThe southern ghats.

The holiest city in India, on the Ganges, where pilgrims bathe at dawn, cremations burn day and night on the ghats and the evening aarti fills the riverbank. Intense and unmissable.
Varanasi, also called Kashi and Benares, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the holiest in Hinduism. Hindus believe that dying here brings liberation from the cycle of rebirth, and cremations take place in the open at the burning ghats.
The city is a maze of alleys running down to more than eighty ghats along the Ganges. At dawn, pilgrims bathe and pray; at dusk, priests perform the aarti with fire and bells.
Nearby Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon. Three days is right.
Stay near the ghats, around Assi Ghat or Dashashwamedh.
The southern ghats.
The main ghat.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 5 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Varanasi, on the Ganges, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and Hinduism's holiest, where pilgrims come to bathe and the devout come to die.
Take a boat on the river at dawn, when the ghats, the stepped banks, fill with people bathing, praying, washing and doing yoga as the sun rises. Walk the ghats from Assi to Dashashwamedh, a few kilometres of temples and palaces.
At Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, cremations take place around the clock. Watching is permitted, but photography is not; be respectful, and ignore people who offer to guide you in exchange for 'donations' for firewood.
The Ganga Aarti, every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, is a ceremony of fire, bells and chanting by young priests; watch from the steps or a boat.
The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the holiest Shiva temples, is reached through a new corridor to the river; phones and bags are not allowed inside. The old city's narrow lanes, galis, are full of shrines, lassi shops and silk weavers.
Sarnath, half an hour away, is where the Buddha gave his first teaching, with ruins, a stupa and a museum.
Walking the ghats, the Ganga Aarti, and the old city's lanes are free. Watching dawn on the river from the steps costs nothing.
Sarnath's deer park and stupa grounds charge a small fee.
Varanasi's food is vegetarian and sweet. Kachori sabzi, fried bread with potato curry, is the breakfast, followed by jalebi. Lassi in clay cups, from shops in the galis, and malaiyo, a winter saffron milk foam, are local favourites. Banarasi paan is famous.
A meal is €1 to €4.
Varanasi has no real nightlife: the evenings are for the aarti and riverside cafés. Alcohol is restricted near the ghats.
Varanasi Airport is about 45 minutes away. Trains reach Delhi in about eight to twelve hours, Agra and Kolkata; the Vande Bharat to Delhi takes about eight.
The ghats and old city are walkable; boats link the ghats. Autos cover longer distances.
Varanasi is cheap. Dorms start around €5 and a careful day is €15 to €25.
A shared boat at dawn is a few euros, a private boat €5 to €15. The aarti is free.
The currency is the rupee (INR), at roughly 95 to 100 rupees to the euro; prices here are euro equivalents. UPI phone payments are everywhere, and some apps now accept foreign cards; carry cash for small shops, autos and markets.
Varanasi needs patience. Touts are persistent, and at the burning ghats people may pressure you for 'donations' for firewood; decline politely. Do not photograph cremations.
The Ganges is heavily polluted; avoid swimming. The galis are crowded with people, cows and motorbikes.
Women travellers often face staring and comments, and sometimes groping in crowds; dress conservatively, use women's carriages on metros and trains, and book cabs through apps. Drink only bottled or filtered water, and be wary of raw salads and ice; stomach upsets are common.
Most visitors need an Indian e-Visa, applied for online before travel. Since 1 April 2026, all foreign nationals flying in must also submit the free e-Arrival Card online within 72 hours before landing; screenshot or download the QR code, as it cannot be retrieved later.
Emergency number is 112.
Buddhist Sarnath and beyond.

Where the Buddha first taught.

A fort across the river.

Where the Buddha found enlightenment.
Dev Deepawali lights the ghats with a million lamps.
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