Tuktuk
First-timersThe Samosir peninsula.

The largest volcanic lake in the world, in the crater of a supervolcano, with an island almost the size of Singapore in the middle and the Batak culture of carved houses and royal tombs around it.
Lake Toba fills the caldera of a supervolcano that erupted about 74,000 years ago, one of the largest eruptions in the Earth's history. The lake is about a hundred kilometres long, and in the middle sits Samosir, an island almost the size of Singapore.
The area is home to the Toba Batak people, with their boat-shaped houses, stone tombs and a largely Christian culture that sets them apart in Indonesia.
It is cool, green and relaxed. Three days is right.
Tuktuk, a small peninsula on Samosir Island, has most of the guesthouses, cafés and restaurants on the lake shore, walkable and relaxed. Parapat, on the mainland, is the ferry port. Elsewhere on Samosir, villages are quieter, best reached by scooter.
The Samosir peninsula.
The mainland ferry port.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Lake Toba, in northern Sumatra, fills the crater of a supervolcano that erupted about 74,000 years ago, one of the largest eruptions on Earth. About 100 kilometres long, it is the largest lake in Southeast Asia, with Samosir, an island almost the size of Singapore, in the middle.
Samosir is the homeland of the Toba Batak people. In Ambarita, see the stone chairs where village elders held trials, and in Tomok the tomb of King Sidabutar and performances of the sigale-gale, a wooden puppet dance. Batak houses, with dramatic curved roofs, are found in villages across the island.
Rent a scooter to ride around Samosir, past villages, churches and rice fields, to the hot springs at Pangururan and the viewpoint at Holbung Hill.
Swim in the lake, which is cool and clean off Tuktuk, and spend slow days on a guesthouse terrace.
On the mainland, Sipiso-piso, a 120-metre waterfall, plunges into a canyon at the lake's northern end, and Berastagi has volcanoes and markets.
Swimming in the lake and the views across it are free, and so is wandering Tuktuk and the villages.
The stone chairs and tombs charge small fees. The hills and viewpoints on Samosir are free to reach by scooter.
The Batak are mostly Christian, so pork is common: babi panggang, roast pork, is a speciality. Arsik, carp cooked with andaliman, a citrusy Batak pepper, is the classic fish dish. Tuak, palm wine, is drunk in village bars.
Tuktuk's guesthouses serve Indonesian and Western food. A meal is €2 to €5.
Lake Toba is quiet at night. A few bars in Tuktuk have live Batak music, with groups singing and playing guitar, and tuak, palm wine, in the villages.
A beer is €2 to €3.
Ferries cross from Parapat to Tuktuk and Tomok in about 30 to 45 minutes. Silangit Airport is about two hours away, with flights from Jakarta, or buses and shared taxis reach Medan in four to five hours.
On Samosir, rent a scooter or bicycle.
Lake Toba is cheap. Dorms start around €5 and a careful day is €15 to €25.
The ferry is about €1, scooter hire about €5 a day, and village sites small fees.
The currency is the rupiah (IDR), at roughly 17,000 to 18,000 rupiah to the euro; prices here are euro equivalents. Cards work in tourist areas; carry cash for warungs, boats and small islands, where ATMs are few.
Lake Toba is safe. Scooter accidents are the biggest risk to travellers in Indonesia. Only ride with a valid licence for motorbikes, insurance that covers it, and a helmet; police checks are common.
The lake is deep and cold away from the shore; swim near guesthouses.
Most visitors need a visa on arrival, best bought online as an e-VOA before you fly, and must complete Indonesia's online arrival declaration, All Indonesia, before landing; check the current rules for your passport.
Emergency number is 112.
A great waterfall, volcanoes and orangutans.

Volcanoes and markets.

Orangutans.
Batak festivals bring music and dance.
Batak music and culture.
Best weather.
May to September is drier.
Average highs. Cool at 900 metres.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.
Prices are in rupiah locally; these are euro equivalents.
The ones we get asked most.
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