Toyapakeh
ArrivalThe north-west harbour.

A rugged island off Bali with the cliffs from every photograph, manta rays in the sea and rough roads inland. Less developed than Bali, and spectacular.
Nusa Penida is a large, rugged island south-east of Bali, much less developed than its neighbour. Its west coast has some of the most photographed views in Indonesia, including the T-rex-shaped headland of Kelingking Beach.
The sea around it has manta rays year-round, and its neighbours, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan, are smaller and more relaxed.
The roads are rough and the distances slow. Two or three days is right.
Toyapakeh and Ped, on the north-west coast, are where the boats arrive, with guesthouses and dive shops. Crystal Bay, on the west coast, is closer to the beaches and snorkelling. Nusa Lembongan, the smaller island next door, is easier and more relaxed, with better roads and beach cafés.
The north-west harbour.
Near the snorkelling.
The smaller island.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 9 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Nusa Penida, a rugged island off Bali's south-east coast, has some of Indonesia's most dramatic coastal scenery, with soaring cliffs and turquoise bays.
Kelingking Beach, where a headland shaped like a T-rex drops into the sea, is the island's most famous view. The trail down to the beach is extremely steep and has caused accidents; enjoy the view from the top unless you are fit and well shod. Broken Beach, a natural arch over a cove, and Angel's Billabong, a tidal pool, are nearby; never swim in Angel's Billabong, as waves have swept people out to sea.
On the east coast, Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach are reached down steps cut in the cliff, and the Thousand Islands viewpoint looks over the coast.
The island's waters are world-famous for manta rays, found at Manta Point year-round, and, from about July to October, the giant oceanic sunfish, mola mola. Snorkel and dive trips leave daily.
Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan, linked by a yellow suspension bridge, have mangroves and the Blue Lagoon.
Most viewpoints, including Kelingking's clifftop view, charge only small parking or entry fees. The beaches are free once you reach them.
Sunsets from Crystal Bay and the views from the coastal roads are free.
Nusa Penida has warungs serving nasi goreng, mie goreng and fresh fish, and cafés aimed at travellers around Ped and Crystal Bay. Seaweed is farmed around the islands; watch the harvest on Lembongan.
A meal is €2 to €6.
Nusa Penida is quiet at night, with a few bars around Ped. Nusa Lembongan has more, with beach bars at sunset.
A beer is €2 to €4.
Fast boats from Sanur take about forty-five minutes; book with licensed operators. On the island, rent a scooter only if you are an experienced rider, as roads are steep, narrow and rough, or hire a driver for the day.
The main viewpoints are on opposite sides of the island; a day trip from Bali covers only one side.
Nusa Penida is mid-priced. Dorms start around €8 and a careful day is €25 to €40.
A driver for the day is €35 to €50, a manta snorkel trip €25 to €40, and the fast boat from Sanur €15 to €25 each way. A small island levy is charged on arrival.
The currency is the rupiah (IDR), at roughly 17,000 to 18,000 rupiah to the euro; prices here are euro equivalents. Cards work in tourist areas; carry cash for warungs, boats and small islands, where ATMs are few. ATMs are limited and often empty; bring cash.
Nusa Penida needs care. The Kelingking trail is steep and dangerous, and Angel's Billabong has killed people swept off by waves; stay back from the edge. The roads are rough; hire a driver if unsure.
Sea conditions vary; choose licensed boat operators with life jackets.
Most visitors need a visa on arrival, best bought online as an e-VOA before you fly, and must complete Indonesia's online arrival declaration, All Indonesia, before landing; check the current rules for your passport.
Emergency number is 112.
Manta rays, the sister islands and a lagoon.

Snorkel with manta rays.
Manta rays are present all year.
Live music plays as the sun sets over the water at this Nusa Penida beach bar. You can settle in with dinner and cocktails…
Latin rhythms fill the air at this beachfront spot every Saturday and Sunday evening. You can settle in for dinner as live music sets…
The top-rated places to stay in Nusa Penida right now, live from Hostelworld.
Sustainable
Sustainable
April to October is dry, with calmer seas.
Average highs.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.
Prices are in rupiah locally; these are euro equivalents. Excludes snorkel and dive trips.
The ones we get asked most.
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