Montpellier
Montpellier city guide

Things To Do In Montpellier

Southern, young and walkable: a medieval tangle of a centre, the oldest working medical school in the world, and the Mediterranean ten minutes away by tram.

4
Hostels in the city
9.0
Average, from 2,321 reviews
1220
The medical school founded, and still teaching
70,000
Students in a city of about 300,000
10 min
To the beach by tram and bus

The youngest city in France, with a beach attached

Montpellier has one of the youngest populations of any French city — around seventy thousand students in a city of three hundred thousand — and it feels it. The bars are cheap, the squares are full on a Tuesday, and nothing about the place is stately.

The centre, called the Écusson for its shield shape, is a knot of medieval lanes with almost no cars in it, opening suddenly onto the Place de la Comédie, which is one of the largest pedestrian squares in Europe.

The medical faculty was founded in 1220 and has taught continuously since, making it the oldest working medical school in the world; Rabelais and Nostradamus both studied here.

Unlike most of the French Mediterranean, Montpellier is not actually on the sea — it sits about ten kilometres inland, with tram and bus links to the beaches at Palavas and Carnon.

Two days, plus a beach afternoon.

Where to stay

A pedestrian medieval core with newer quarters spreading south towards the sea.

Écusson

First-timers

The medieval centre: pedestrian lanes, squares, bars and most of the beds. Noisy at night and central.

Comédie and Gare

Transport and value

Around the main square and Saint-Roch station: trams to everywhere and cheaper rooms.

Beaux-Arts and Boutonnet

Local and quieter

North: a residential quarter with good restaurants, markets and fewer visitors.

Antigone

Modern and spacious

East: a neoclassical postmodern district of the 1980s, walkable to the centre and the river.

Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 4 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.

Things to do

Things to do in Montpellier

Walk the Écusson. It is a medieval street plan almost entirely free of cars, full of small squares, seventeenth-century mansions with courtyards, and the kind of wandering that does not need a map.

The Musée Fabre, about €8, is a serious fine art collection — Courbet, Delacroix, Soulages — and considerably better than a city this size would normally hold.

The Jardin des Plantes, founded in 1593, is the oldest botanical garden in France and is free.

The Place de la Comédie is the social centre and one of the largest pedestrian squares in Europe, running into the Esplanade and the Corum at the top.

Then go to the beach: tram to Port Marianne or Pérols and a bus onward to Palavas or Carnon, about forty minutes and a couple of euros. Or go inland instead — the Pic Saint-Loup, a limestone ridge with vineyards below it, is an hour away.

Free things

Free things to do in Montpellier

The Écusson costs nothing and is the main attraction — lanes, squares, courtyards and a total absence of traffic.

The Jardin des Plantes, founded in 1593, is free, as is the Promenade du Peyrou with its arch, aqueduct and view towards the sea and the Cévennes.

The Place de la Comédie and the Esplanade are free and are where the city actually spends its evenings.

The cathedral and the medical faculty buildings beside it are free from outside, and the anatomy museum is free on certain days.

The beaches at Palavas and Carnon are free, and the walk along the étangs — the coastal lagoons full of flamingos — costs only the bus fare.

Food and drink

Eating and drinking in Montpellier

Cheap, because of the students. A lunch formule is €12 to €17 and plenty of places do less.

Halles Castellane and the Halles Laissac are the covered markets, with counter lunches at €8 to €14 and the Mediterranean catch on display.

Languedoc food is southern rather than Provençal — brandade de morue, a whipped salt cod and olive oil dish, plus Bouzigues oysters from the étang de Thau just west of the city at €10 to €16 a dozen.

Pâté de Montpellier and the local tielle, a small octopus pie from Sète, are worth trying once.

Languedoc wine is the other advantage: Pic Saint-Loup, Faugères, Picpoul de Pinet, at €3.50 to €5.50 a glass and consistently better value than its neighbours.

Nightlife

Going out in Montpellier

One of the best student nights in the south, and cheap with it.

The Écusson squares — Place Jean Jaurès, Place Saint-Roch, Place de la Canourgue — fill with people drinking outside from early evening, which is the local pattern and costs almost nothing.

Rue de la Loge and the lanes off it have the bars, and a handful of clubs sit east near the river.

A beer is €4 to €6 and cocktails €7 to €11, with student nights lower again.

Summer moves the whole thing to the beaches at Palavas and La Grande-Motte, which have their own club scene from June to September.

Trams run to about half past midnight, later at weekends.

Getting around

Getting around Montpellier

Trams cost about €1.60 with day tickets, and four lines cover the city. The trams are individually decorated — one set was designed by Christian Lacroix — which is a small thing that makes the city feel like itself.

The Écusson is almost entirely pedestrian, so walking is the default in the centre.

There are two stations: Saint-Roch in the middle of town for most services, and Sud de France outside the city for some TGVs. Check which one your ticket says, because they are a tram ride apart.

Paris is three and a quarter hours by TGV, Barcelona about three hours, and Marseille an hour and a half.

For the beach, tram then bus to Palavas or Carnon, roughly forty minutes in total.

Costs

What Montpellier costs

Cheap for the French Mediterranean. Dorms are €20 to €35, a lunch formule €12 to €17, and a beer €4 to €6.

A day is €45 to €80, which is well under Nice and slightly under Marseille.

The Écusson, the gardens, the Peyrou and the beaches are all free, and the beach costs only a tram and bus fare.

The Musée Fabre at about €8 is the main entry.

Term time keeps prices honest; July and August push beds up as the coast fills, though less sharply than on the Riviera.

Safety

Staying safe in Montpellier

Montpellier is a safe city and the crime affecting visitors is petty theft.

Pickpocketing happens around the Comédie, on trams and in the Écusson at night.

The Écusson squares get very drunk at weekends in term time, which is the main source of trouble and mostly avoidable.

At the beaches, the Mediterranean here shelves gently but the étangs and the channels between lagoon and sea have real currents. Swim on the patrolled beach sections in season.

Summers are hot, regularly above 32°C, and the Écusson holds the heat. The tramontane wind blows hard for days at a time and drops the felt temperature noticeably. Emergency number is 112.

Day trips from Montpellier

A beach, a gorge village, an oyster lagoon and a Roman aqueduct.

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

1 hour · Bus, about €3

A medieval village in a gorge on the Santiago pilgrim route, with an abbey and the Pont du Diable nearby.

Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard

1 hour · Bus or train and bus, about €12

A three-tier Roman aqueduct bridge, UNESCO-listed, with swimming in the river beneath it.

Nîmes

Nîmes

30 minutes · Train, about €10

A Roman amphitheatre in better condition than the Colosseum, still used for concerts and bullfights.

What's on

What is on while you are there

A dance festival in June, and water jousting along the coast in summer.

When to go

April to June and September to October. July and August are hot and the students are gone.

12°
Jan
Mild and bright. Cheapest, students in, bars full
13°
Feb
Mild and quiet outdoors
16°
Mar
Warming. Squares filling again
19°
Apr
Very good. Warm days and everything open
23°
May
Excellent. Terraces, and the sea starts to work
27°
Jun
The best month. Students still in until late June
30°
Jul
Hot and busy. The coast is where everyone goes
30°
Aug
Hotter. Students gone and many cheap places closed
26°
Sep
Superb. Warmest sea, term restarts, city refills
21°
Oct
Very good value and still warm
15°
Nov
Wetter. Quiet and cheap
12°
Dec
Mild and bright, with a Christmas market on the Esplanade
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets: quiet busy peak

Average highs. September is the best single month here — the sea is at its warmest, the students come back, and the July crowds have gone.

What your trip will cost

Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.

The beach costs only a tram and bus fare, which keeps the doing line low. July and August run above these figures.

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  • Beds—
  • Food and drink—
  • Getting around—
  • Doing things—

Montpellier travel questions

The ones we get asked most.

Is Montpellier on the sea?
No, and this surprises people. It sits about ten kilometres inland. The beaches at Palavas and Carnon are a tram then a bus away, roughly forty minutes and a couple of euros, with flamingo lagoons on the route.
Is it cheaper than Nice or Marseille?
Cheaper than both. Dorms €20 to €35, beer €4 to €6, a day around €45 to €80. Seventy thousand students in a city of three hundred thousand keep the prices down.
What is the Écusson?
The medieval centre, named for its shield shape — a knot of narrow lanes almost entirely free of cars, full of small squares and seventeenth-century courtyards. It costs nothing and it is the main reason to be here.
When should I visit?
September. The sea is at its warmest, the students return and the city refills, and the July and August crowds have gone. April to June is the other good window.
What is worth a day trip?
Sète, thirty minutes away, a working fishing port built across canals with the best seafood on the coast. The Pont du Gard, a three-tier Roman aqueduct with swimming underneath it, is an hour.
Which station do I arrive at?
Saint-Roch is in the middle of town and handles most services. Sud de France sits outside the city and takes some TGVs. They are a tram ride apart, so check your ticket.
What wine should I drink?
Languedoc — Pic Saint-Loup from the ridge an hour north, Picpoul de Pinet from beside the oyster lagoons, Faugères. At €3.50 to €5.50 a glass it is consistently better value than the more famous regions.

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