Santa Cruz
First-timersThe old Jewish quarter by the Alcázar.

Flamenco, orange trees, a Moorish palace still used by the king and the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Andalusia at its most itself, and too hot in August.
Seville was a great city of Muslim al-Andalus, and after 1492 it grew rich as the only port licensed to trade with the Americas. The Alcázar palace, the cathedral with its Giralda tower, and the Archive of the Indies are together a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is the home of flamenco and of two of Spain's great festivals, Holy Week and the April Fair, and its streets are lined with orange trees.
Seville is also the hottest city in Europe in summer, when the afternoon regularly passes 40°C. Visit in spring or autumn. Three days is right.
Stay in Santa Cruz or the centre for the sights, or across the river in Triana.
The old Jewish quarter by the Alcázar.
Around Las Setas.
The flamenco quarter across the river.
Bars on the long square.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 12 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
The routes we would take, in the order we would take them.
Book the Real Alcázar ahead: a Moorish-style palace built by Christian kings, with tiled courtyards and huge gardens. The cathedral, the largest Gothic church in the world, holds the tomb of Columbus; climb the Giralda, the old minaret, by ramps.
Plaza de España, built for the 1929 exhibition, is a vast semicircle of tiles and bridges, and it is free.
The Metropol Parasol, known as Las Setas, has a rooftop walkway over the old town.
Cross the river to Triana, the old potters' and flamenco quarter, and see flamenco in a small tablao or a peña rather than a dinner show.
Plaza de España, the Parque de María Luisa and the streets of Santa Cruz are free.
The Alcázar is free at set times for those who book; check ahead.
Seville is a tapas city: salmorejo, a thick cold tomato soup, pescaíto frito, fried fish, espinacas con garbanzos and jamón. Tapas cost €3 to €5 each, and you order at the bar.
The Triana market is the place for fresh food.
A menú del día is €11 to €15.
Seville goes out late, in the squares and bars of the Alameda de Hércules, Triana and the centre. Summer nights run outdoors after the heat.
Flamenco is the other night out.
A beer is €2 to €3.50.
The centre is walkable. The EA airport bus reaches the centre in about thirty-five minutes.
AVE trains reach Madrid in about two and a half hours and Córdoba in about forty-five minutes. Buses reach Granada in about three hours and Cádiz in under two.
Seville is mid-priced, with prices rising sharply for Holy Week and the April Fair. Dorms start around €18. A careful day is €45 to €60.
The euro is the currency. Cards work almost everywhere, though small bars still like cash.
Seville is safe.
The summer heat is the real danger, passing 40°C in July and August. Stay out of the sun in the afternoon and drink water.
Emergency number is 112, with English-speaking operators usually available.
White villages, Roman ruins and the coast.

The Mezquita.

An ancient port on the Atlantic.

A town split by a deep gorge.
Holy Week and the April Fair are the two great weeks.
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The top-rated places to stay in Seville right now, live from Hostelworld.
March to May and October are best. Avoid July and August.
Average highs. One of the hottest cities in Europe.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.
Holy Week and April Fair prices run far higher.
The ones we get asked most.
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