Centre
First-timersNear the river and market, walkable.

Cambodia's second city is a relaxed riverside town of French colonial shophouses, with a bamboo train, a circus school, hilltop temples and millions of bats at dusk.
Battambang sits on the Sangker river in the rice-growing north-west, and its centre is one of the best-preserved French colonial towns in Cambodia, with shophouses, a market and old villas.
It is also the home of Phare Ponleu Selpak, the arts and circus school founded after the Khmer Rouge years, and of a strong art scene.
The countryside around it has temples on hills, the bamboo train and a cave from which millions of bats pour out at sunset. Two or three days is right.
Stay in the centre, along the Sangker River and near the Central Market, where the colonial shophouses, cafés and guesthouses are walkable. Quieter guesthouses lie across the river and just outside town.
Near the river and market, walkable.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 4 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Battambang, Cambodia's second city, is a relaxed riverside town of French colonial shophouses, surrounded by rice fields, temples and villages.
The classic way to see the countryside is a tuk-tuk tour with one of the town's English-speaking drivers. At dusk, watch millions of bats stream out of a cave at Phnom Sampeau, a hill of temples; on the way up, the killing caves are a memorial to Khmer Rouge victims. Wat Banan, an Angkor-era temple on a hilltop, is reached up 358 steps.
The bamboo train, the norry, is a bamboo platform on wheels that once carried locals along the railway; it now runs as a short tourist ride. Ek Phnom, a ruined eleventh-century temple, has a giant Buddha beside it.
In town, walk the colonial streets around the Central Market, an Art Deco building, see the Battambang Museum, and take a Khmer cooking class.
In the evening, Phare Ponleu Selpak, an arts school founded in 1994 that trains young people in circus, music and art, puts on circus shows, one of the best things to do in Cambodia.
Walking the colonial streets, the riverside and the Central Market is free, and so is watching the bats at Phnom Sampeau from the foot of the hill.
Many pagodas around town are free, and the countryside roads are free to cycle.
Battambang is known for its rice, grown in the province, called Cambodia's rice bowl, and its fruit, especially oranges and pomelos. Nom banh chok and kuy teav are the breakfast noodles, and fish amok and lok lak are everywhere.
The Central Market's food stalls are cheap, and the town has good cafés and cooking classes. A meal is €1.50 to €6.
Battambang is quiet at night, with a few bars along the riverside and on Street 2.5. The Phare Ponleu Selpak circus shows are the main evening out.
A beer is €1 to €2.50.
The centre is walkable; tuk-tuk drivers run countryside tours for the day. Book tuk-tuks through PassApp or Grab to avoid haggling.
Buses reach Siem Reap in about three hours and Phnom Penh in about five. In the wet season, roughly August to January, a boat runs to Siem Reap along the Sangker River and across the Tonlé Sap, a long but beautiful trip.
Land crossings with Thailand have been closed or heavily restricted since mid-2025 because of a border dispute and fighting; check the current situation before planning to travel overland, and expect to fly between the two countries.
Battambang is very cheap. Dorms start around €5 and a careful day is €15 to €25.
A countryside tuk-tuk tour is €15 to €20 for the day, the bamboo train a few euros, and Phare Ponleu Selpak shows around €10 to €15.
Cambodia uses two currencies: US dollars for most prices, and the riel (about 4,000 to the dollar) for small change. Prices here are euro equivalents. Bring clean, untorn dollar notes; ATMs dispense dollars but charge fees. Cards work only in hotels and upmarket places.
Battambang is very safe.
In the countryside, stay on paths; unexploded ordnance remains in rural parts of the north-west, especially towards the Thai border. Avoid areas close to the border while the dispute continues.
Emergency: 117 police, 119 ambulance.
Bats, hilltop temples and the bamboo train.

Killing caves and bats at dusk.

An Angkor-era hilltop temple.
The circus performs through the year.
Performances by the school.
The new year.
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