Dayan old town
First-timersThe UNESCO old town.

A Naxi old town of cobbles, canals and wooden houses in Yunnan, under a glacier-capped mountain, and the gateway to Tiger Leaping Gorge, one of the great treks in China.
Lijiang sits at 2,400 metres in north-west Yunnan, beneath Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Its old town, Dayan, a maze of cobbled lanes, canals and wooden houses built by the Naxi people, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Naxi have their own culture, music and Dongba script, one of the last pictographic writing systems still in use. The old town is very touristy now, but the quieter villages of Shuhe and Baisha nearby keep more of the old feel.
Lijiang is also the base for Tiger Leaping Gorge. Three days is right, or more with the gorge.
Dayan, the UNESCO old town, has guesthouses in traditional Naxi courtyard houses, but its lanes are crowded and commercial. Shuhe, a smaller old town a few kilometres north, is calmer. Baisha, further out, is a quiet village at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The UNESCO old town.
A smaller old town.
A village below the mountain.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 7 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Lijiang, in north-western Yunnan at about 2,400 metres, is the home of the Naxi people, with an old town of cobbled lanes, canals and wooden houses that became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
Wander Dayan's lanes early in the morning or late at night, before and after the crowds; climb Lion Hill or Wangu Pavilion for the view over the rooftops. Black Dragon Pool park has the classic view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reflected in the water. Shuhe and Baisha are quieter old towns nearby, with Naxi murals in Baisha.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, 5,596 metres, has cable cars up to its glacier at about 4,500 metres; book well ahead, as numbers are limited, and bring warm layers. Blue Moon Valley, at its foot, has turquoise pools.
Tiger Leaping Gorge, about two hours away, is one of the world's deepest gorges; the two-day High Trail along its side, with guesthouses on the way, is one of China's great hikes.
Lugu Lake, home of the Mosuo people, and Dali, another old town by a lake, are further trips. Learn about the Naxi's Dongba script, one of the last pictographic writing systems still in use.
Walking Dayan, Shuhe and Baisha's lanes is free, though the old town has a maintenance fee that may be checked at some sites.
Black Dragon Pool park is included in the maintenance fee, and the views of the mountain from town are free.
Yunnan food is fresh and varied. Naxi baba, a flatbread, and Lijiang's chicken hot pot are local dishes; yak meat and wild mushrooms come from the mountains. Crossing-the-bridge noodles, guoqiao mixian, a Yunnan classic, are served in a bowl of hot broth to which you add the ingredients.
Try Yunnan coffee and Pu'er tea. A meal is €3 to €10.
Dayan has a lively, touristy nightlife: bars with live music along the canals, busy until late. Shuhe is quieter.
Naxi orchestra concerts, playing ancient music, are held in the old town.
A beer is €3 to €6.
Lijiang Sanyi Airport is about 40 minutes from town. High-speed trains reach Dali in about an hour and a half and Kunming in about three.
The old town is car-free and walkable. Buses and taxis reach Shuhe, Baisha and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Buses go to Tiger Leaping Gorge from the bus station.
Lijiang is mid-priced. Dorms start around €8 and a careful day is €25 to €40.
The old town maintenance fee is about €6. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, with the park entry and cable car, costs €40 to €60. Tiger Leaping Gorge charges a small entry fee.
The currency is the yuan (CNY), at roughly 8 yuan to the euro; prices here are euro equivalents. Almost everyone pays by phone: set up Alipay or WeChat Pay with a foreign card before you arrive, and carry some cash as a backup.
Lijiang is very safe.
Altitude: Lijiang is at about 2,400 metres, and the mountain's glacier at about 4,500. Take it easy on the first day, and come down if you feel unwell at altitude. On Tiger Leaping Gorge, watch for rockfall on the paths in the wet season.
Google, WhatsApp and Instagram are blocked; use an eSIM with international roaming, and Amap or Baidu Maps for directions. Carry your passport: it is needed for trains, hotels and many sights, which are booked by real name.
Many nationalities can now enter China visa-free for up to 30 days, under a scheme extended to the end of 2026, and 240-hour visa-free transit covers many more; check the rules for your passport before you travel.
Emergency: 110 police, 120 ambulance, 119 fire.
A great gorge trek, a snow mountain and lakeside towns.

A two-day High Trail trek.

Cable car to the glacier and Blue Moon Valley.

A lake of the Mosuo people.

Another old town, on a lake.
The Torch Festival lights up Yunnan in summer.
Bonfires and celebrations among the minority peoples.
Very crowded.
The top-rated places to stay in Lijiang right now, live from Hostelworld.
Sustainable
March to May and September to November. Summer is the rainy season. Avoid Golden Week (1–7 October) and Chinese New Year if you can, when the whole country travels.
Average highs. At altitude, it is mild all year but cold at night.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros.
Prices are in yuan locally; these are euro equivalents. Excludes the mountain cable car.
The ones we get asked most.
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