George Town
Shops, food, boatsThe main town on Great Exuma, across the harbour from Stocking Island.
Island guide
Things to do in Exuma
A chain of more than 360 cays in impossibly clear water: sandbars that appear at low tide, Thunderball Grotto, the swimming pigs of Big Major Cay, iguanas, nurse sharks and the beaches of Great Exuma.
360+
Cays and islands
1958
Land and Sea Park created
Sandbars, cays and the clearest water
Exuma is the Bahamas of the postcards. The district stretches about 200 kilometres from north to south, a line of more than 360 cays and islands on the edge of a shallow, sandy bank, where the water turns every shade of turquoise. Most people live on Great Exuma and Little Exuma, joined by a bridge, around the small town of George Town.
The Exuma Cays to the north are what most visitors come for. Day trips by speedboat visit Thunderball Grotto, a cave you can snorkel into, used in two James Bond films; the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay; the iguanas of Allan's Cay; the nurse sharks at Compass Cay; and sandbars that appear at low tide. The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, created in 1958, protects a long stretch of reef and cays where fishing is banned.
Great Exuma itself has long empty beaches, the bars and Sunday parties of Stocking Island across the harbour from George Town, and the big sailing regatta in April. Give Exuma four or five days. It is expensive, and most people stay in guesthouses or apartments rather than resorts.
Where to base yourself
George Town for food, shops and boats to Stocking Island, the quieter beaches of Great Exuma, or Staniel Cay in the middle of the cays.
Great Exuma beaches
Quiet, long beachesGuesthouses and villas along the coast north and south of George Town.
Staniel Cay
In the middle of the caysA small island close to Thunderball Grotto and the pigs.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Things to do
Things to do in Exuma
Take a full-day boat trip through the Exuma Cays. Most combine Thunderball Grotto, where you snorkel into a cave lit from above, the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay, the iguanas on Allan's Cay or Leaf Cay, the nurse sharks at Compass Cay and a stop at a sandbar. Trips from Great Exuma cost roughly €130 to €215.
Snorkel in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, where fishing has been banned since 1958 and the fish are plentiful. Hike the trails on Warderick Wells, the park's headquarters.
On Great Exuma, take the water taxi from George Town to Stocking Island for its beaches and the beach bar at Chat 'N' Chill. Drive south to Tropic of Cancer Beach on Little Exuma, and the long beaches of the east coast.
Free things
And what it costs nothing to do
All beaches in the Bahamas are public, and Great Exuma's long, quiet beaches are free, including Tropic of Cancer Beach and the beaches of the east coast.
Walking around George Town and its harbour costs nothing, and snorkelling from the beach is free if you bring your own mask.
The cays need a boat, which is the main cost of a visit.
Food and drink
Eating and drinking
Conch salad stands and fish fry shacks are the cheapest and best places to eat, with conch, lobster in season, grouper and peas and rice. The fish fry near George Town is the local gathering place.
Restaurants are expensive, so many visitors self-cater from George Town's grocery shops. Prices are high, because almost everything comes by boat.
Restaurant meals carry 10 per cent VAT, and a service charge is often added, so check the bill before tipping.
Nightlife
Going out
Nightlife is quiet: a few bars in George Town, beach bars on Stocking Island and the Sunday pig roast at Chat 'N' Chill, the biggest gathering of the week.
In April, the National Family Island Regatta brings sailing races, music and parties to George Town.
Most evenings end early, with stars and a quiet bar.
Getting around
Getting around
Exuma International Airport, near George Town, has flights from Nassau, Florida and some other US cities. Fast ferries and mail boats also run from Nassau, though less often.
On Great Exuma, a hire car is the easiest way to get around, and driving is on the left. Taxis are expensive. Water taxis cross to Stocking Island.
The cays are reached by boat tours, private boat hire or small planes; Staniel Cay has its own airstrip.
Costs
What Exuma costs
Exuma is expensive. There are very few budget beds, so the cheapest options are small guesthouses and apartments, from around €110 a night, and more in the dry season.
The big costs are boat trips (around €130 to €215 for a day in the cays) and car hire. Restaurant mains cost €25 to €40 plus VAT and service.
Self-catering, eating at conch stands and sharing boat trips with other travellers help.
Safety
Safety and scams
Exuma is very safe, and crime against visitors is rare.
The risks are on the water. Currents between the cays are strong, so swim near the boat and follow the crew. The pigs bite when they expect food, and people are hurt every year, so follow the operator's instructions. Do not touch or feed the nurse sharks or iguanas unless the guides allow it.
Use strong sun protection. Hurricane season runs from June to November. In an emergency, call 911 or 919.
What's on
What is on while you are there
Regattas, Junkanoo and Sunday pig roasts.
April
National Family Island Regatta
George Town
Traditional Bahamian sloops race in Elizabeth Harbour.
Every Sunday
Sunday pig roast
Stocking Island
The biggest gathering of the week.
26 December and 1 January
Junkanoo
George Town
Smaller than Nassau's, but just as loud.
When to go
December to April is the dry season, with calm seas and the clearest water, and the busiest and most expensive time. The regatta is in April. Hurricane season runs from June to November.
Jan
Dry, peak season
Feb
Dry and comfortable
Mar
Spring break crowds
Apr
Warm water, dry
May
Warming, quieter
Jun
Hurricane season opens
Jul
Hot, regatta season
Aug
Hot, rising hurricane risk
Sep
Peak hurricane risk, some places close
Oct
Still risky
Nov
Good value
Dec
Dry season, Junkanoo
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets:
quiet
busy
peak
Average highs, rounded. Warm all year.
What your trip will cost
Per night, for one person, based on Great Exuma prices.
Treat these as a guide. Boat trips and car hire cost extra.
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- Beds—
- Food and drink—
- Getting around—
- Doing things—
Exuma questions
The ones we get asked most.
Where are the swimming pigs?
On Big Major Cay in the Exuma Cays, visited on day trips from Great Exuma, Staniel Cay or Nassau. Follow the guides, as the pigs bite.
How much is a day trip to the Exuma Cays?
Roughly €130 to €215 from Great Exuma, usually including Thunderball Grotto, the pigs and a sandbar.
How do I get to Exuma?
Fly to Exuma International from Nassau or Florida, or take a ferry or mail boat from Nassau.
Do I need a car on Great Exuma?
It is the easiest way to get around. Taxis are expensive.
Is Exuma expensive?
Yes. Expect guesthouses from around €110 a night, and budget for boat trips.
When is the best time to visit Exuma?
December to April, when seas are calm and the water is clearest.
Can I visit Exuma from Nassau in a day?
Yes, on a boat or plane tour, though it is a long and expensive day.
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