San Pedro La Laguna
Nightlife, schoolsThe backpacker village.

A deep blue crater lake ringed by volcanoes and Maya villages, each with its own character: yoga in San Marcos, nightlife in San Pedro, weaving in San Juan, Tz'utujil traditions in Santiago, all linked by boat.
Lake Atitlán fills a huge volcanic caldera in the western highlands, at around 1,560 metres, with the volcanoes San Pedro, Atitlán and Tolimán rising from its southern shore. Writers have called it the most beautiful lake in the world, and the view across it at sunrise makes the case.
Around its shores are a dozen Maya villages, mostly Kaqchikel and Tz'utujil, each with its own feel. Panajachel is the busy gateway town; San Pedro La Laguna has Spanish schools and the lake's nightlife; San Marcos is the centre of yoga and meditation; San Juan has weaving and painting cooperatives; and Santiago Atitlán is the largest and most traditional, with its shrine of Maximón.
Lanchas, public boats, cross between the villages all day, so it is easy to move around. Give the lake four to five days, and stay in more than one village.
San Pedro for nightlife and schools, San Marcos for yoga, San Juan for quiet, or Panajachel for transport.
The backpacker village.
A quiet, spiritual village.
Next to San Pedro.
The gateway town.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Hop between villages by lancha: see the weaving cooperatives and murals of San Juan, the market and Maximón shrine in Santiago, and the yoga and swimming spots of San Marcos, including the Cerro Tzankujil nature reserve with its jumping platform.
Watch sunrise from Indian Nose, a hill above San Juan, on a guided hike, or climb San Pedro volcano. Kayak or paddleboard on the lake in the calm mornings.
Study Spanish in San Pedro, and take a day trip to the Thursday and Sunday market in Chichicastenango.
Walking the villages, their markets and the lakeshore costs nothing, and so does sunset over the volcanoes.
Swimming from the public shore in most villages is free.
Lanchas cost a few euros a ride, and Indian Nose and Cerro Tzankujil charge small fees.
Comedores in every village serve set lunches for €3 to €5, and markets sell tamales and fresh fruit. Try black bass from the lake and pepián.
San Pedro and San Marcos have cheap international cafes, vegetarian food and good coffee grown on the lake slopes.
A 10 per cent tip is customary in restaurants, and is sometimes already added to the bill.
San Pedro La Laguna is the lake's party village, with bars and weekly parties popular with backpackers. Panajachel has a few bars on Calle Santander.
San Marcos and San Juan are quiet at night.
Gallo costs €1.50 to €3. Lanchas stop running around dusk, so plan to sleep where you drink.
Tourist shuttles run from Antigua to Panajachel or San Pedro in about three hours, and from Xela and Guatemala City. Chicken buses go to Panajachel via Sololá.
Public lanchas cross between the villages from early morning until about dusk, for a few euros. Agree the fare before boarding.
Tuk-tuks run within villages, and some villages are linked by road.
Dorm beds start at around €7 to €14 a night. Comedor lunches cost €3 to €5.
Lancha rides cost about €2 to €4, yoga classes about €8 to €12, and Spanish school with homestay about €130 to €220 a week.
Carry cash; cash machines are in Panajachel and San Pedro, but can run out.
The lake villages are generally relaxed, but robberies have happened on hiking trails between villages and on Indian Nose and San Pedro volcano, so hike with a local guide.
Afternoon winds, the xocomil, can make the lake rough; take morning boats if you can. Avoid walking between villages after dark.
Do not drink the tap water; bottled and purified water is cheap everywhere. In an emergency, call 110 for the police, or 1500 for PROATUR, the tourist assistance line.
Markets, villages and volcanoes.

The Thursday and Sunday market.

Maximón and the market.

Highland city.
Markets and festivals.
The biggest market in the region.
Maximón processions.
November to April is the dry season, with clear views of the volcanoes. May to October brings afternoon rain. Easter and the end of the year are busiest.
Average highs, rounded. Cool evenings at 1,560 metres.
Per night, for one person, based on Lake Atitlán prices.
Treat these as a guide. Lessons and tours cost extra.
The ones we get asked most.
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