Zanzibar pizza, urojo and a fish on the grill
Forodhani Gardens night market is the obvious first meal. It sets up on the Stone Town waterfront from around 6pm, with long rows of grills piled with seafood, skewers and sugar cane. The thing to order is Zanzibar pizza, which is nothing like pizza: a thin dough parcel filled with minced meat, egg, onion, or banana and chocolate, fried on a hot plate for TSh 3,000–5,000 (€1–1.70). Mishkaki (grilled meat skewers) cost about TSh 2,000–4,000 each.
Forodhani is also where tourists overpay. Agree the price per skewer before the vendor starts grilling, ask for prices in shillings, and choose seafood that is cooked in front of you rather than seafood that has been sitting out since sunset. Pick stalls with queues of locals.
Away from the waterfront, try urojo, also called Zanzibar mix: a tangy, turmeric-yellow soup with bhajias, potatoes, crispy bits and chutney, sold for $1–2 at small stalls in the back lanes of Stone Town. For a sit-down local meal, Lukmaan is a long-running canteen where you point at pilau, biryani, curries and stews for about $3–5 (€2.70–4.50). It doesn't serve alcohol, and the Friday biryani goes fast.
On the beaches the food changes. In Paje, Jambiani, Nungwi and Kendwa, most menus are priced for tourists, often in dollars, and a grilled fish with chips can cost several times a Stone Town meal. Look for the small local cafés set back from the beach, where rice, beans and fish cost far less. The Rock, the restaurant on a rock in the sea near Michamvi, is the island's most photographed place to eat; go for the setting, not value.
Alcohol is easy to find in hotels, beach bars and some Stone Town restaurants, but Zanzibar is a Muslim island, so don't drink in the street. Kilimanjaro and Safari are the local lagers. During Ramadan, many local places close in daylight and reopen at sunset.