Vietnam country guide

Things To Do In Vietnam

Over three thousand kilometres of coast, two deltas, mountains in the north, and the cheapest good food in Asia. The classic overland trip, done north to south or the other way round.

€6
Dorm bed, from
3,260km
Of coastline
€1.50
A bowl of pho
3
Distinct climates at once

A long thin country you travel end to end

Vietnam is 1,650km from top to bottom and narrow enough in the middle to cross in an hour, which is why almost everyone travels its length rather than basing themselves in one place. The standard route runs Hanoi, Ha Long or Ninh Binh, Hue, Hoi An, Da Nang, then Nha Trang or Da Lat and finishes in Ho Chi Minh City, or exactly the reverse.

The country changes as you go. Hanoi in the north is older, tighter and cooler, with a proper winter. Hue and Hoi An in the centre are imperial and lantern-lit. Ho Chi Minh City in the south is bigger, hotter, louder and more commercial, and the Mekong Delta below it is another country again.

That length also means there is no single best season — the north, centre and south have different weather at the same time, which is the one thing worth understanding before booking.

Where to go

The overland route runs the length of the country. Trains, sleeper buses and cheap flights link it.

Hanoi

133 hostels · dorms from €4

The capital: a dense old quarter, lakes, street food on plastic stools and the best coffee culture in Asia.

The Hanoi guide

Sapa

65 hostels

Rice terraces and hill tribe villages in the far north, and trekking between homestays.

The Sapa guide

Ha Giang

42 hostels

The far north: a four-day motorbike loop through limestone mountains that most travellers rate the best thing they did in Vietnam.

The Ha Giang guide

Ninh Binh

93 hostels · dorms from €4

Limestone karsts rising out of rice paddies, often called Ha Long Bay on land. Cheaper and quieter than the bay.

The Ninh Binh guide

Cat Ba

36 hostels

The island base for Ha Long and Lan Ha bays, with cheaper boat trips and a national park behind the town.

The Cat Ba guide

Phong Nha

41 hostels

Caves on a scale that has to be seen, including the largest in the world, in a karst national park near the old DMZ.

The Phong Nha guide

Hue

51 hostels

The old imperial capital, with a citadel, royal tombs along the river and the country's most distinctive food.

The Hue guide

Da Nang

51 hostels

Beaches, the Marble Mountains and the Dragon Bridge, thirty minutes from Hoi An and the flight hub for the centre.

The Da Nang guide

Hoi An

111 hostels · dorms from €4

A lantern-lit trading town, tailors, a beach nearby, and the prettiest place in the country.

The Hoi An guide

Da Lat

34 hostels

Cool highland air, French colonial villas, canyoning and the flower and coffee country of the central highlands.

The Da Lat guide

Nha Trang

18 hostels

A long city beach, islands offshore, and a Russian-influenced resort scene unlike anywhere else in the country.

The Nha Trang guide

Mui Ne

12 hostels

Sand dunes beside the sea, kitesurfing wind from November to April, and a fishing village behind the resort strip.

The Mui Ne guide

Ho Chi Minh City

131 hostels

Bigger, hotter and faster than Hanoi, with war history, rooftop bars and the Mekong below it.

The Ho Chi Minh City guide

Phu Quoc

1 hostel

The big southern island: beaches, a night market, and a fast-developing resort coast in the Gulf of Thailand.

The Phu Quoc guide

What kind of trip is this?

Vietnam is an overland trip more than a destination, and it does food, coast and mountains equally well.

Things to do

Things to do in Vietnam

Ha Long Bay is the famous one and it is genuinely spectacular, though heavily trafficked — Lan Ha Bay next door and Ninh Binh inland give you the same limestone karsts with a fraction of the boats.

Hoi An is the town people extend their stay in: lanterns, a river, a beach twenty minutes away by bike, and tailors who will make a suit in two days. It floods in October and November, which is worth knowing.

In the centre, Phong Nha has some of the largest caves in the world and is still underrated. In the far north, the Ha Giang loop — three or four days on a motorbike through mountain passes near the Chinese border, usually with a local rider if you are not confident — has become the most talked-about thing in Vietnamese travel, and it deserves the attention.

Food and drink

Eating in Vietnam

Vietnamese food is the reason a lot of people extend their trips. Pho for breakfast costs €1.50 to €2.50 from a street kitchen, banh mi is under a euro, and bun cha in Hanoi — grilled pork in broth with noodles — is worth crossing the city for.

It changes as you travel. The north is subtler and less sweet, the centre around Hue is spicier and more complex, and the south is sweeter with more herbs. Hoi An has its own dishes, cao lau and white rose dumplings, that are only made there.

Coffee is a national institution and a genuine speciality: strong robusta with condensed milk, or egg coffee in Hanoi, which is whipped yolk over coffee and better than it sounds. Bia hoi, fresh draught beer sold on pavement corners, costs about 25 cents a glass.

Nightlife

Going out in Vietnam

Hanoi's version is bia hoi: plastic stools on a street corner, fresh beer at about 25 cents a glass, and an old quarter that was subject to a curfew for years and now runs late at weekends.

Ho Chi Minh City is bigger and more varied — rooftop bars overlooking the river, Bui Vien street for the backpacker version, and a growing craft beer scene in District 1 and 2.

Hoi An does riverside bars and lanterns, and the islands and beach towns have their own small scenes. Alcohol is cheap everywhere, and the drink-driving enforcement on scooters has become genuinely strict, which matters if you were planning to ride back.

Getting around

Getting around Vietnam

The Reunification Express runs the length of the country and the Hue to Da Nang stretch, along the Hai Van Pass, is one of the great train rides in Asia. Sleeper berths on the longer legs cost €20 to €40 and save a night's accommodation.

Sleeper buses are cheaper and more common on the backpacker route, with flat beds rather than seats. They are not comfortable for everyone but they are efficient.

Domestic flights on VietJet, Bamboo and Vietnam Airlines are cheap and turn two days of travel into an hour. Motorbikes are the local transport, and Grab — the regional ride app — works in every city for both cars and bikes and removes all haggling.

Costs

What Vietnam costs

Vietnam is among the cheapest countries in Asia. Dorms start around €6, a bowl of pho is €1.50 to €2.50, a beer is under a euro, and a sleeper train the length of the country costs €20 to €40.

A comfortable day comes to €20 to €35 including everything. The main extras are the Ha Giang loop with a rider, Ha Long Bay cruises and domestic flights, none of which are expensive by European standards.

The dong has a lot of zeros — hundreds of thousands are normal amounts — and the notes look similar, which causes mistakes. Check what you are handing over, and be aware that some places quote in dollars for tours.

Safety

Staying safe in Vietnam

Vietnam is safe for travellers with very low violent crime. The risks are traffic, water and bag snatching.

Traffic is the big one. Crossing a road in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City means walking slowly and predictably while the scooters flow around you — stopping suddenly is what causes accidents. Riding a motorbike yourself carries the same insurance problem as in Thailand: most policies require the correct licence, and Vietnam's rules for foreign riders are strict.

Bag snatching from passing scooters is common in Ho Chi Minh City in particular: keep phones away from the road side and bags on the inside shoulder. Beaches on the central coast have strong currents from September to December.

Entry and documents

Entry and documents

Every nationality can apply online for an e-visa valid for up to 90 days, and the UK and many European countries get 45 days visa-free. The exemption list has changed several times in recent years, so check the official Vietnamese immigration site before booking.

Passports generally need six months' validity from entry.

Apply for the e-visa through the official government portal rather than the many lookalike sites that charge several times the fee for the same thing.

When to go

There is no single best month, because the north, centre and south are on different cycles. February to April is the best window across the whole country.

20°
Jan
Cool and grey in the north, dry and pleasant in the south
21°
Feb
Tet new year — the country shuts and travel gets difficult
24°
Mar
Excellent nationwide. Warm, dry, and one of the best months
28°
Apr
Hot in the south, lovely in the north and centre
31°
May
Very hot. Rain starting in the south
32°
Jun
Hot and wet in the south, hot and dry in the centre
32°
Jul
Rainy season in the north and south. Cheapest month
31°
Aug
Still wet, still green, still cheap
30°
Sep
Rain easing in the north. Typhoon risk on the coast
28°
Oct
Excellent in the north. Hoi An and the centre flood
25°
Nov
Superb in the north and south. Centre still wet
21°
Dec
Dry in the south, cool in the north, and busy
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets: quiet busy peak

Average highs for Hanoi. The country spans three climate zones, so check the region rather than the country: the centre floods in October and November, and Tet in late January or February closes almost everything for a week.

What your trip will cost

Pick how you travel and how long for. Per night, for one person, in euro equivalents of Vietnamese dong.

Prices are in dong locally; these are euro equivalents. The Ha Giang loop, a Ha Long cruise and domestic flights are the main extras.

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  • Beds—
  • Food and drink—
  • Getting around—
  • Doing things—
What's on

What is on while you are there

Tet is the one that changes everything, and it is the week to plan around in one direction or the other.

Vietnam travel questions

The ones we get asked most.

How long do you need in Vietnam?
Three weeks for the full length, north to south or the reverse. Two weeks works if you skip a section — most people drop either the far north or the Mekong Delta.
When is the best time to visit Vietnam?
There is no single answer, because the north, centre and south have different seasons at the same time. February to April is the safest window nationwide. The centre, including Hoi An, floods in October and November.
Is Vietnam cheap?
Among the cheapest countries in Asia. Dorms from €6, pho at €1.50 to €2.50, bia hoi at 25 cents a glass, and a comfortable day between €20 and €35.
North to south or south to north?
Either works and the route is the same. South to north ends with the mountains and Ha Giang, which many people prefer as a finish; north to south ends warmer and nearer the islands.
What is the Ha Giang loop?
A three or four day motorbike route through mountain passes near the Chinese border, and the most talked-about thing in Vietnamese travel. If you are not a confident rider, hire an easy rider — a local who drives while you sit behind.
Do I need a visa for Vietnam?
Every nationality can get an e-visa online for up to 90 days, and the UK and many European countries get 45 days visa-free. The rules have changed repeatedly, so check the official immigration site, and apply through the government portal, not the lookalike sites that charge more.
When is Tet and does it matter?
Lunar new year, in late January or February. It matters a great deal: businesses close for up to a week, domestic transport books out and prices rise. Either plan around it or accept that much will be shut.

Say yes to hostels, meet the world

Compare hostels across Vietnam — live prices, real reviews and free cancellation on most bookings. Then meet the people already there in the app.

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