City centre
First-timersAround the Bodleian and the High: colleges, the covered market and everything on foot.

The oldest university in the English-speaking world, a covered market, a domed library you can climb, and the pub where Tolkien and Lewis argued about their books.
Teaching has gone on at Oxford since at least 1096, making it the oldest university in the English-speaking world, and thirty-nine colleges are folded into a city that also builds cars at Cowley and has an ordinary life beyond the gowns.
The Bodleian is one of the great libraries — a legal deposit library entitled to a copy of every book published in Britain — and the Radcliffe Camera at its centre is the building on every postcard.
Christ Church has the hall the Harry Potter dining hall was modelled on, which drives a large part of the visitor traffic and the ticket price.
The Ashmolean, Britain's first public museum, and the Pitt Rivers, an unreformed Victorian ethnographic collection in dense glass cases, are both free and both remarkable.
One long day, or two.
A small centre, with cheaper beds along the two main roads out.
Around the Bodleian and the High: colleges, the covered market and everything on foot.
North-west: Victorian terraces, good restaurants, a canal and an arthouse cinema.
East across the Cherwell: the city's most diverse street, cheap food, live music and no visitors.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
The Bodleian Library tours are the best thing here, from about £10 for the Divinity School to £20 for the full tour including Duke Humfrey's Library. The Radcliffe Camera can only be entered on the extended tour.
Climb something. The University Church of St Mary the Virgin tower at about £6 gives the classic view over the Radcliffe Camera and the colleges; Carfax Tower is cheaper and lower.
Christ Church at about £20 is the expensive one, with the cathedral, the hall that inspired the Harry Potter set and a meadow walk. Worth it if you want one college done properly.
The Ashmolean is free, holds Britain's first public museum collection and takes two hours easily.
The Pitt Rivers, behind the Natural History Museum, is free and arranged by type rather than culture in dark Victorian cases — one of the strangest and best museums in the country.
The Ashmolean, the Pitt Rivers and the Museum of Natural History are all free and all substantial.
Several colleges admit visitors free at quiet hours, and the Bodleian's Divinity School courtyard, the Bridge of Sighs on New College Lane and the whole of the High Street cost nothing.
The University Parks and Christ Church Meadow are free, and the meadow walk runs down to the Thames, called the Isis as it passes the city.
Port Meadow, an ancient common grazed for a thousand years, is free, enormous and where the city swims in summer.
The Eagle and Child and the Lamb and Flag on St Giles' are where Tolkien and Lewis's Inklings met; going in costs the price of a drink.
The Covered Market, trading since 1774, is the centre's good option — pies, cheese, a famous cake shop and cheap lunch counters at £6 to £12.
Cowley Road is where the city actually eats: Pakistani, Ethiopian, Caribbean, Polish and Middle Eastern at £8 to £15, and a ten-minute walk from the centre.
Jericho has the better restaurants and the calmer rooms.
A pub main is £14 to £19 and a pint £5 to £6.50.
The historic pubs are worth one evening: the Turf Tavern, hidden down an alley and where a future Australian prime minister set a beer-drinking record, and the Lamb and Flag and Eagle and Child on St Giles', both tied to the Inklings.
Pub-led in the centre and more interesting on Cowley Road, which has the live music venues, the late bars and the crowd that is not in a college.
College bars and balls take most student energy and are largely closed to outsiders.
The O2 Academy and the Bullingdon on Cowley Road carry the touring gigs, and Oxford has produced more bands than a city this size should have.
A pint is £5 to £6.50 and cocktails £9 to £13.
Term time here runs in three eight-week blocks from October to June, and out of term the evenings are quiet.
Walk. The centre is about a mile across and largely pedestrianised, and cycling is the local default with hire at £15 to £20 a day.
Buses cover Cowley, Jericho and the park-and-rides at about £2.50.
Trains reach London Paddington in an hour and Birmingham in an hour and twenty. The Oxford Tube and X90 coaches run to London around the clock for about £15 return, which is cheaper than the train and only a little slower.
Heathrow is an hour by the Airline coach, about £30, with no change in London.
Driving into the centre is discouraged by design, with traffic filters, bus gates and expensive parking.
Similar to Cambridge and expensive for its size. Dorms are £22 to £40, a pub main £14 to £19, and a pint £5 to £6.50.
A day is £55 to £95.
Three free museums and the meadows cover a lot of it. The costs are college entries — Christ Church at about £20 is the steep one — and the Bodleian tours at £10 to £20.
The coach to London at about £15 return is markedly cheaper than the train, runs 24 hours and is the standard way in and out.
Oxford is safe, and the hazards are bicycles and water rather than crime.
Cycling volumes are high, bikes move fast and quietly, and the roads through the centre are narrow with buses squeezing past.
Bike theft is the most common crime in the city, so lock anything hired properly.
The Thames and the Cherwell run through the meadows and people swim at Port Meadow and Wolvercote in summer. There are no lifeguards, the water is cold, the current is stronger than it looks and there are weirs — swim where other people are swimming and not after drinking.
Emergency number is 999, or 112.
A baroque palace, the Cotswolds and London in an hour.

A baroque palace in Capability Brown parkland, Churchill's birthplace and UNESCO-listed. Entry about £35.

Honey-coloured villages, drystone walls and walking between them. Burford and Chipping Norton are the nearest.

Close enough to do from either direction.

Shakespeare's birthplace, his grave, and the Royal Shakespeare Company on the Avon.
Choristers sing from a tower at six in the morning on 1 May, and the whole city turns up.
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A small scene for a city this visited, so book ahead — particularly around May Morning and graduation weekends. Live from Hostelworld.
Term time for atmosphere, summer for college access. May Morning is the one date worth planning around.
Average highs. Oxford sits in the Thames valley and is milder and damper than the numbers suggest, with a genuine tendency to fog in late autumn.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in pounds.
The doing line covers a college entry and a Bodleian tour. Blenheim Palace at about £35 sits outside these figures.
The ones we get asked most.
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