Gamla stan
First-timersThe old town: Stortorget, Lilla torg, the castle and the station nearby.

Southern, multicultural and thirty-five minutes from Copenhagen over the bridge, with a twisting skyscraper, a sea-bathing house on a pier, and the best cheap food in Sweden.
Malmö is Sweden's third city, at the southern tip of the country, and it faces Denmark more than it faces Stockholm. The Öresund Bridge — the one from the television series — connects it to Copenhagen, thirty-five minutes away by train.
It was an industrial shipbuilding city that reinvented itself after the yards closed, and the Western Harbour, where the shipyards were, now holds the Turning Torso, a residential skyscraper that twists ninety degrees from bottom to top.
It is also the most multicultural city in Sweden, with residents from around a hundred and eighty countries, and that shows in its food. Möllevången, the district around the market square, is where to eat cheaply and well.
The old town has a moated Renaissance castle and a pair of squares, Stortorget and Lilla torg, and the long beach at Ribersborg has a traditional cold-bath house on a pier, with saunas and the sea.
Two days, and Copenhagen is a day trip away.
A compact old town, a food district and a new harbour quarter.
The old town: Stortorget, Lilla torg, the castle and the station nearby.
South of the centre: the market square, cheap international food and the best bars.
The Western Harbour: the Turning Torso, waterfront promenades and the beach nearby.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Go to Ribersborgs Kallbadhus, the cold-bath house at the end of a pier off Ribersborg beach, around 90 SEK (€8). It has wood-fired saunas and ladders straight into the sea, and Swedes use it year-round, including in winter. The sauna areas are gender-separated and nude, which is normal here.
Walk out to the Western Harbour and look up at the Turning Torso, a 190-metre residential tower that twists ninety degrees from base to top. The waterfront promenade around it is free.
Malmöhus Castle, a moated Renaissance fortress, houses several museums in one ticket.
Lilla torg, the small cobbled square in the old town, is the most attractive part of the centre and full of terraces in summer.
Moderna Museet Malmö, the city's branch of the national modern art museum, is in a converted power station.
Then take the train over the bridge to Copenhagen, thirty-five minutes away.
Ribersborg beach is free, and so is the long waterfront promenade to the Western Harbour.
The Western Harbour and the Turning Torso are free to walk around.
The old town squares, Stortorget and Lilla torg, cost nothing.
The city parks — Slottsparken and Kungsparken beside the castle — are free.
Möllevångstorget market is free to browse and gives the best picture of the city.
The cheapest good food in Sweden. Malmö calls itself the falafel capital of the country, and a falafel wrap is around 50 to 70 SEK (€4.50–6.50), which is extraordinary by Swedish standards.
Möllevången is where to eat — Middle Eastern, Balkan, Asian and Latin American food at low prices.
Dagens lunch runs about 110 to 140 SEK (€10–13).
Skåne, the southern region, has its own food traditions, including spettekaka, a tall cake baked on a spit, and eel feasts in autumn.
A beer is 60 to 90 SEK (€5.50–8), noticeably cheaper than Stockholm, and strong alcohol is sold only at Systembolaget, closed on Sundays.
Möllevången is the centre — relaxed, mixed and cheaper than anywhere else in Swedish cities, with bars around the market square.
Lilla torg has the terraces and a more polished crowd in summer.
A beer is 60 to 90 SEK (€5.50–8) and cocktails 120 to 160 SEK (€11–14.50).
Lund, with its large university, is ten minutes away by train and adds a student crowd.
Copenhagen is thirty-five minutes away, and plenty of Malmö residents go out there.
The centre is walkable and flat, and Malmö is one of the best cycling cities in Sweden, with hire bikes widely available.
Buses cover the rest, paid by app or card.
Copenhagen airport is twenty minutes by train over the bridge, and is how most people arrive.
Trains to Copenhagen take thirty-five minutes. Carry photo ID — Sweden has at times reintroduced identity checks on the crossing, and the rules have changed several times.
Lund is ten minutes by train, Gothenburg about two and a half hours, and Stockholm about four and a half.
Cheaper than Stockholm and Gothenburg. Dorms are 250 to 450 SEK (€23–41), a main 150 to 250 SEK (€14–23), and a beer 60 to 90 SEK (€5.50–8).
A day is €55 to €95.
You pay in kronor, almost always by card.
Falafel and the Möllevången restaurants make eating cheap. The Kallbadhus is around 90 SEK (€8), and the castle museums are modestly priced.
Copenhagen across the bridge is more expensive, so staying in Malmö and visiting Copenhagen saves money.
Malmö is safe for visitors, and the areas they use see little trouble.
The city has had a well-publicised rise in gang-related violence in recent years, concentrated in some outer suburbs. It rarely affects visitors or the centre, the beach and the harbour.
Pickpocketing happens around the central station at ordinary levels.
The sea at Ribersborg is cold for much of the year, and cold-water shock is a risk if you jump in from the Kallbadhus pier without warming up — go in slowly.
Carry ID if you cross to Copenhagen.
Emergency number is 112.
Copenhagen, a university town and a stone ship on a cliff.

Denmark's capital across the Öresund Bridge. Carry ID.

A university town from the seventeenth century with a Romanesque cathedral and an astronomical clock.

Fifty-nine standing stones in the shape of a ship on a clifftop above the Baltic.

A medieval town of half-timbered houses, the setting of the Wallander novels.

Long white beaches and one of Europe's great bird migration points in autumn.
A free city festival in August.
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A modest scene in the centre, and a cheaper base for Copenhagen. Live from Hostelworld.
May to September. The bathing house stays open year-round.
Average highs. Malmö is the mildest major city in Sweden, but it is windy and the sea stays cold for most of the year.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros — you will pay in kronor, at roughly 11 to the euro, and mostly by card.
Shown in euros for comparison; you pay in kronor. The cheapest major city in Sweden.
The ones we get asked most.
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