Alsancak
NightlifeBars and the seafront.

Turkey's relaxed third city on the Aegean, with a palm-lined seafront, a sprawling old bazaar and the best nightlife on the coast. Selçuk and Ephesus are an hour away, and Çeşme and Alaçatı even closer.
Izmir, ancient Smyrna, is Turkey's third-largest city and one of its most liberal and outward-looking. It spreads around a deep bay, with the Kordon, a long seafront promenade, at its heart.
Most of the old city burned in 1922, so Izmir is not a museum-piece city like Istanbul. Its appeal is its easy-going life: evenings on the Kordon, the Kemeraltı bazaar, and the bars of Alsancak.
It is also the gateway to the Aegean. Ephesus is reached through Selçuk, an hour away, the windsurfing and stone houses of Çeşme and Alaçatı are an hour west, and Pergamon is to the north. Two days in the city is right.
Stay in Alsancak for bars and the seafront, or Konak for the bazaar.
Bars and the seafront.
The clock tower and bazaar.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 6 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk the Kordon at sunset, when all of Izmir seems to be out on the promenade. The clock tower on Konak Square, built in 1901, is the symbol of the city.
Kemeraltı, one of the largest bazaars in Turkey, runs back from Konak through old hans and mosques. The ancient Agora of Smyrna is at its edge.
Ride the Asansör, a lift built in 1907, up to a cliff-top street with views over the bay. Climb Kadifekale, the hilltop fortress, for sunset.
For Ephesus, take the İzBAN train south to Selçuk. Çeşme and Alaçatı are an hour west by bus, and Pergamon, a UNESCO site, is two hours north.
The Kordon, Konak Square and Kemeraltı are free to wander.
The Asansör costs almost nothing, and the view from Kadifekale is free.
Izmir's breakfast is boyoz, a flaky pastry, with a boiled egg. Kumru, a sandwich of cheese and sausage, is the street snack. Seafood and meze are the evening meal.
Kemeraltı is the place for cheap food. A lokanta meal is €4 to €7.
Alsancak, north of the centre, has the best nightlife on the Aegean coast, with dozens of bars in the back streets, busy every night. Izmir is one of the most relaxed cities in Turkey about going out.
A beer is €4 to €6.
The centre is walkable, and the metro, trams and ferries across the bay are cheap. The İzBAN suburban train reaches the airport and continues to Selçuk in about an hour and a quarter.
Buses reach Çeşme in about an hour and Pergamon (Bergama) in about two.
Izmir is cheaper than Istanbul. Dorms start around €12. A careful day is €35 to €50.
The currency is the Turkish lira, and prices change quickly with inflation; these are euro equivalents. Cards work widely, bank ATMs are best, and always pay in lira rather than accepting a conversion.
Izmir is safe.
Izmir sits in an earthquake zone; know the emergency exits where you stay.
Emergency number is 112.
The Aegean coast and its ancient cities.

The great Roman city.

Beaches, windsurfing and stone houses.

A hilltop acropolis, a UNESCO site.
The International Izmir Fair has run since the 1920s.
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