Seafront and the Lanes
First-timersThe beach, the pier, the Pavilion and the alleys. Central, loud and where most beds are.

An hour from London: a pebble beach, a pier, an Indian palace built for a Regency prince, and the most cheerfully eccentric city in England.
Brighton is where London goes for the weekend and where a lot of Londoners eventually move. It has a beach, a pier, a wrecked second pier standing in the sea, and a reputation for being the least conventional city in England.
The Royal Pavilion is the centrepiece: a seaside palace built for the Prince Regent in Indian style with a Chinese interior, finished in 1823, and entirely unlike anything else in the country.
The Lanes are the tangle of narrow alleys full of jewellers and vintage shops; the North Laine above them is the scruffier, better one.
It has one of the largest LGBTQ+ communities in Britain and a Pride in August that takes over the whole city.
The beach is pebbles, not sand. Everyone is surprised by this, and everyone should have been told.
Two days, or one long one from London.
A small city stacked up from the seafront, all within twenty minutes on foot.
The beach, the pier, the Pavilion and the alleys. Central, loud and where most beds are.
Just inland: vintage shops, record stores, the best bars and a scruffier feel than the Lanes.
East along the front: the heart of the gay scene, good restaurants and a village feel.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 6 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
The Royal Pavilion, at about £18, is the reason to come. George IV built it as a seaside pleasure palace, the outside is Indian and the inside Chinese, and the banqueting room has a dragon holding a chandelier over the table. Nothing else in England looks like it.
Brighton Palace Pier is free to walk and the rides are individually priced. It is fairground kitsch done properly.
The West Pier, burned out in 2003, still stands as a black skeleton in the water and is the most photographed thing in the city.
The Lanes and North Laine are free to wander and the North Laine is the better of the two — less jewellery, more record shops and vintage.
The i360 observation tower at about £20 divides opinion sharply; the view from the seafront is free.
The beach and the seafront cost nothing, and the walk from the Palace Pier west past the West Pier ruin to Hove is the best hour in the city.
The pier itself is free to walk on — only the rides are charged.
Brighton Museum and Art Gallery is free to Brighton and Hove residents and charged for visitors, but the Pavilion Gardens around it are free and a good place to sit.
The Lanes, North Laine and Kemptown are all free to wander, and the street art around Kensington Street is worth the detour.
At dusk from October to March, starlings murmurate over the West Pier ruin in flocks of tens of thousands. It is free, it is astonishing, and it is the best thing here in winter.
Brighton is one of the best cities in England for vegetarians and vegans, with a lot of places built entirely around it rather than adding a token dish.
Fish and chips on the seafront is the obvious meal at £10 to £15, and eating it on the pebbles while defending it from seagulls is the full experience. They are bold and they will take it.
The North Laine has the good cheap food — £9 to £15 a plate, with a strong Middle Eastern and South Asian showing.
Kemptown has the better restaurants and the calmer rooms.
A pint is £5 to £6.50, and Brighton has a solid independent brewery scene.
Out of all proportion to the city's size. West Street is the loud mainstream strip, the North Laine has the interesting bars, and Kemptown has one of the biggest LGBTQ+ scenes in the country.
The seafront arches hold clubs built into the promenade wall, which is the distinctive Brighton night — Concorde 2 among them.
A pint is £5 to £6.50 and cocktails £9 to £13.
Weekends bring London down in quantity, along with a heavy stag and hen trade concentrated on West Street.
Things run to three or four, and the beach at dawn afterwards is a Brighton tradition whatever the weather.
Walk. The city is small and everything of interest sits between the station and the sea, about fifteen minutes apart downhill.
Buses are about £2.60 a journey with day tickets, and they are useful for Hove and the outer areas.
Trains from London Victoria take an hour and cost £15 to £30 booked ahead, considerably more on the day. London Bridge is a similar time.
Gatwick is 30 minutes by train, which makes Brighton a viable first or last stop on a UK trip.
The seafront is flat; everything inland is uphill from it, and the climb back from the beach is steeper than it looks.
Expensive for its size, because London weekenders set the prices. Dorms are £20 to £40, a plate £9 to £15, and a pint £5 to £6.50.
A day is £50 to £90.
Pride weekend and summer Saturdays run far above that, and beds book out months ahead for the first weekend of August.
The free tier is good: the beach, the seafront, the pier itself, the Laines and the murmuration in winter. The Pavilion at about £18 is the one entry worth paying for.
Brighton is safe and friendly, with the usual weekend drinking to navigate on West Street.
The sea is the real hazard. There are no lifeguards outside the summer season on most of the beach, the shelving pebble bank drops away sharply, and there are rip currents. Swim near the lifeguarded sections in season and do not swim drunk at night, which is how most incidents here happen.
Do not jump from the pier. People do, and people have died doing it; it is also illegal.
Pebbles are hard on bare feet and slippery when wet — shoes for getting in and out make a real difference.
Seagulls take food aggressively. Emergency number is 999, or 112.
The South Downs start at the edge of the city, and London is an hour back.

White chalk cliffs above the Channel, with a clifftop walk from Seaford to Birling Gap. Do not stand near the edge — the chalk collapses.

A hill town with a Norman castle, independent shops and the country's most elaborate Bonfire Night.

A castle above a small town, with a cathedral and a wetland reserve.

A different proposition entirely, and close enough to do either direction.
Pride in August takes over the entire city.
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A strong scene along the seafront and in the North Laine, with prices doubling for Pride. Live from Hostelworld.
Sustainable
June to September for the beach, and October to March for the murmuration.
Average highs. The sea is at its warmest in September, not July, and the wind off the Channel makes it feel colder on the front than the numbers suggest.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in pounds.
Pride weekend and summer Saturdays run well above these. Transport is low because you walk everywhere.
The ones we get asked most.
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