Montevideo
City guide

Things to do in Montevideo

A relaxed capital on a wide river: a 20-km waterfront Rambla, art deco streets, parrilla grills in an old port market and candombe drums on Sunday evenings.

13
Hostels in the city
8.1
Average, from 8,268 reviews
2–3
Days to do it properly

The capital that takes its time

Montevideo is home to around half of Uruguay's population, but it never feels like a big city. It sits on the wide, brown Río de la Plata, and the Rambla, a waterfront promenade of more than 20 km, runs along its whole length past beaches and parks. At sunset it fills with people walking, running, fishing and drinking mate from flasks tucked under their arms.

The Ciudad Vieja, the old town on a peninsula, has colonial streets, art deco buildings, galleries and the Mercado del Puerto, a covered market full of parrilla grills. The Centro around the Avenida 18 de Julio has grand buildings such as the Palacio Salvo and the Teatro Solís, and the barrios of Pocitos, Punta Carretas and Parque Rodó are leafy, residential and close to the beaches.

Give Montevideo two or three days. It is calm, safe by South American standards and full of small pleasures: a chivito sandwich, a Sunday market, a football match, candombe drumming in Barrio Sur. Visit in February to see the world's longest carnival.

Where to base yourself

Ciudad Vieja has the sights and many hostels. Pocitos and Punta Carretas are by the beach and calmer, and Parque Rodó and Cordón are lively and central.

Ciudad Vieja

Sights, hostels, the port

The old town on the peninsula, with the Mercado del Puerto and many hostels. Quiet at night.

Pocitos

Beach, calm, residential

A busy residential barrio on the city's favourite beach, with cafés and bars.

Punta Carretas

Leafy, safe, near the Rambla

A quiet area by the lighthouse and the Rambla, with a shopping centre in an old prison.

Parque Rodó and Cordón

Lively, central, bars

Student areas near the park and the beach, with bars and the Tristán Narvaja market.

Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 7 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.

Things to do

Things to do in Montevideo

Start in the Plaza Independencia, with the Palacio Salvo, once the tallest building in South America, and the gateway into the Ciudad Vieja. Walk the pedestrian Sarandí street through the old town to the Mercado del Puerto, where grills cook mountains of beef, chorizo and provoleta cheese, best with a glass of medio y medio, half sparkling and half white wine. Take a guided tour of the Teatro Solís, one of the oldest theatres in South America.

Walk or cycle the Rambla from the old town past Parque Rodó to Pocitos beach. The Museo del Carnaval explains candombe and murga, and the Museo Andes 1972 tells the story of the Uruguayan rugby team whose plane crashed in the Andes. Football fans can visit the Estadio Centenario, where the first World Cup final was played in 1930, and its football museum.

On Sundays, the Tristán Narvaja street market in Cordón sells everything from antiques to vegetables, and in the evening candombe drum groups parade through Barrio Sur and Palermo.

Free things

And what it costs nothing to do

The Rambla and the city beaches are free, and the sunset over the river is the best free show in town. Free walking tours leave from the Plaza Independencia; tip the guide.

The Tristán Narvaja market on Sunday mornings and the candombe drum groups on Sunday evenings are free. Many of the city's museums, including the Cabildo, are free or cheap.

The Parque Rodó and the Prado, with its rose garden, are lovely for a walk.

Food and drink

Eating and drinking

Uruguay has some of the best beef in the world, and the parrilla, the grill, is the heart of its food. Try asado, provoleta, a grilled cheese, and morcilla, blood sausage. The chivito, a huge steak sandwich with ham, cheese, egg and salad, is the national sandwich.

The Mercado del Puerto is the classic place for a parrilla lunch, though pricier than local places. Pizza a la leña, faina and empanadas are cheap everyday food, and a menú ejecutivo at lunch is good value.

Mate is drunk everywhere, and Tannat is the country's red wine. Dulce de leche is in almost every dessert.

Nightlife

Going out

Montevideo's nightlife starts late, with dinner at ten and bars filling after midnight. Pocitos, Punta Carretas and Parque Rodó have bars and craft beer, and the Ciudad Vieja has bars and clubs at weekends.

Tango is part of the city's culture too, with milongas, dance nights, around the centre. In carnival season, the Teatro de Verano hosts murga competitions most nights.

Take a taxi or app home late at night, especially from the Ciudad Vieja.

Getting around

Getting around

City buses cover the whole city and are easy with a rechargeable STM card or cash. Taxis and ride apps are easy too, and bikes are good for the Rambla.

Carrasco airport is around 30 to 40 minutes from the centre, with buses and taxis. Long-distance buses leave from the Tres Cruces terminal, with services to Colonia, Punta del Este and the Rocha coast.

Ferries link Montevideo with Buenos Aires directly, or via Colonia with a bus connection.

Costs

What Montevideo costs

Uruguay is the most expensive country in the region. Dorm beds start around €15, with well-rated hostels from €16 to €25. A menú ejecutivo lunch costs around €8 to €12, a parrilla lunch more, and a beer €2 to €4.

Pay with a foreign card in restaurants: for non-residents, VAT is removed in the summer season, from mid-November to April, and reduced the rest of the year. Accommodation is VAT-free for non-residents.

Cards are accepted almost everywhere.

Safety

Safety and scams

Montevideo is one of the safer capitals in South America. Petty theft happens, especially in the Ciudad Vieja and around the port after dark, when the old town empties. Keep your phone out of sight and take a taxi or app home late.

Some outer neighbourhoods are best avoided, but you are unlikely to go there.

The river beaches are calm, but check water quality signs after heavy rain. In an emergency, call 911.

Worth leaving the city for

A colonial port, wineries and the beaches.

Colonia del Sacramento

Colonia del Sacramento

About 2 hours 30 minutes · Bus

A cobbled UNESCO-listed old town on the river.

Punta del Este

Punta del Este

About 2 hours · Bus

The famous beach resort.

Piriápolis

Piriápolis

About 1 hour 30 minutes · Bus

An old resort town with a hilltop castle and a cable car.

What's on

What is on while you are there

Carnival, candombe, football and concerts.

When to go

December to March is summer, warm and lively, with carnival in February. Spring and autumn are mild and pleasant. June to August is cool, grey and windy.

28°
Jan
Summer. Many locals at the coast
27°
Feb
Carnival and Llamadas
25°
Mar
Warm. Carnival ends
22°
Apr
Mild. Semana Criolla
18°
May
Cooler
15°
Jun
Cool and windy
14°
Jul
Coldest
15°
Aug
Cool
17°
Sep
Spring
20°
Oct
Mild
23°
Nov
Warm
26°
Dec
Summer begins
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets: quiet busy peak

Average highs, rounded. Winter winds make it feel colder.

What your trip will cost

Per night, for one person, based on Montevideo prices.

Treat these as a guide. Parrilla lunches and nights out add up.

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  • Beds—
  • Food and drink—
  • Getting around—
  • Doing things—

Montevideo questions

The ones we get asked most.

How many days do you need in Montevideo?
Two or three, plus a day trip to Colonia.
Is Montevideo safe?
It is one of the safer capitals in South America. Take care in the Ciudad Vieja after dark and use taxis or apps late.
Where should I stay in Montevideo?
Ciudad Vieja for sights, Pocitos or Punta Carretas for the beach, and Parque Rodó or Cordón for bars.
What is candombe?
Afro-Uruguayan drumming. Groups parade through Barrio Sur and Palermo on Sunday evenings, and at Llamadas in February.
Is Montevideo expensive?
More than its neighbours, but cheaper than Western Europe. Pay by foreign card to save VAT in restaurants.
How do I get from Buenos Aires to Montevideo?
By direct ferry, or by ferry to Colonia and a bus from there.
When is the best time to visit Montevideo?
December to April, especially February for carnival.

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