Île de N'Dar
Atmosphere and historyThe UNESCO-listed island with colonial streets and auberges.
Senegal city guide
Saint-Louis Travel Guide
Saint-Louis is Senegal's most atmospheric town: a narrow island in the Senegal River lined with faded colonial houses, wrought-iron balconies and horse-drawn carts, joined to the mainland by the iron Faidherbe Bridge. Come for the slow pace, the fishing quarter of Guet N'Dar, a famous jazz festival and some of Africa's best birdwatching.
1659
Year the French founded the town
About CFA 5,000
Sept-place from Dakar
Nov–Apr
Best for Djoudj birds
Saint-Louis at a glance
Saint-Louis, about 260 km north of Dakar near the Mauritanian border, was founded by the French in 1659 on an island in the mouth of the Senegal River. It was the capital of French West Africa until 1902 and of Senegal until 1957.
The town is spread across three parts. The island, Île de N'Dar, is the historic heart and a UNESCO World Heritage site, with a grid of streets lined by colonial houses with balconies, some restored, many crumbling. It's linked to the mainland, Sor, by the Faidherbe Bridge, a 500 m iron bridge dating from 1897.
To the west, across a narrow channel, is the Langue de Barbarie, a long sandy spit between the river and the Atlantic. Its fishing quarter, Guet N'Dar, is one of the busiest in Senegal, with hundreds of painted pirogues pulled up on the beach.
Saint-Louis has a strong cultural life, with music, art and the Saint-Louis International Jazz Festival, one of the most famous in Africa.
The surrounding wetlands are among the most important in West Africa for birds. The Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, a UNESCO site, hosts huge colonies of pelicans and flamingos, and the Langue de Barbarie National Park has seabirds and nesting turtles.
Two or three nights covers the island, Guet N'Dar and a trip to Djoudj or the Langue de Barbarie.
Where to stay in Saint-Louis
Stay on the island for the colonial streets, restaurants and atmosphere, or on the Langue de Barbarie for beach campements. Sor, on the mainland, has the bus station and markets.
Guet N'Dar
Fishing lifeFishing quarter on the Langue de Barbarie with hundreds of pirogues.
Langue de Barbarie
Beach campementsSandy spit between the river and the Atlantic.
Sor
Transport and marketsMainland side with the bus station and markets.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Things to do
Colonial streets, pirogues and pelicans
Start by walking the island. The streets of Île de N'Dar are lined with two-storey colonial houses with wooden balconies and courtyards, many painted in ochre and pastel colours. Look out for the Governor's Palace, the cathedral, one of the oldest in West Africa, and the old post office. Calèches, horse-drawn carriages, offer tours of the island.
Cross the Faidherbe Bridge, the town's landmark, built in the 1890s. Despite a popular myth, it wasn't designed by Gustave Eiffel.
On the Langue de Barbarie, Guet N'Dar is a dense fishing quarter where hundreds of colourful pirogues land their catch on the beach in the late afternoon. It's busy, crowded and photogenic, but ask before taking photos of people.
The Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, about 60 km north, is one of the world's most important wetlands for migrating birds, with up to a million and a half birds in season, including huge colonies of pelicans and flamingos. It's best from about November to April, on a guided tour.
The Langue de Barbarie National Park, about 18 km south, has boat trips through lagoons, with seabirds, and over 160 species of birds recorded.
In late May or early June, the Saint-Louis International Jazz Festival fills the town with concerts.
Free things
Saint-Louis for free (or nearly)
Walk the island's grid of colonial streets, especially in the late afternoon light.
Cross the Faidherbe Bridge on foot for views of the river and the town.
Watch the pirogues return at Guet N'Dar, a free and unforgettable sight.
Walk along the river quays and watch the boats and fishermen.
Look out for free concerts and street performances, especially during the jazz festival.
Join the Fanals lantern parade between Christmas and New Year.
Food and drink
Thieboudienne, yassa and fresh fish
Saint-Louis is said to be the home of thieboudienne, Senegal's national dish of fish, rice and vegetables, and it's worth trying here.
Yassa, chicken or fish in lemon and onion, is served at local restaurants for a couple of euros. Tangana stalls serve cheap Senegalese food, sandwiches and café Touba.
Fish and seafood are fresh, straight from Guet N'Dar, and grilled fish is served in restaurants on the island and the Langue de Barbarie.
Bakeries sell pastries and baguettes for a few hundred CFA.
Restaurant meals on the island cost around €5 to €10. Drink bottled water.
Nightlife
Jazz, bars and river views
Saint-Louis is quieter than Dakar, but it has a relaxed bar scene on the island, with live music in some venues at weekends, and jazz bars that honour the town's music heritage.
The jazz festival, usually in late May or early June, transforms the town, with concerts in squares, bars and venues.
Between Christmas and New Year, the Fanals lantern parade brings the streets to life.
Walk in groups at night, and take a taxi back across the bridge.
Getting around
Getting to and around Saint-Louis
Saint-Louis is about 260 km north of Dakar on the N2. Sept-places leave Dakar when full, for about CFA 5,000 a seat. Minibuses are cheaper but slower, and Dakar Dem Dikk runs air-conditioned buses. There's been no passenger train since the early 2000s.
A taxi from Dakar's airport costs around CFA 60,000 for up to four people, if negotiated.
In town, taxis have fixed fares of about CFA 500 (CFA 600 at night or from the bus station). The island is small and walkable, and calèches, horse-drawn carriages, offer tours.
You can rent bikes for about CFA 5,000 a day and scooters for about CFA 10,000.
For Djoudj and the Langue de Barbarie, join a tour or hire a car with driver.
The border with Mauritania is at Rosso, about 100 km east, or Diama, closer by.
Costs
What Saint-Louis costs
Saint-Louis is good value. Hostelworld has no listings here right now, but auberges on the island offer dorm beds from about CFA 6,000, often with breakfast, and camping from about CFA 2,500.
Local meals cost a couple of euros, and restaurant meals around €5 to €10.
Taxis cost about CFA 500 a ride, and the sept-place from Dakar about CFA 5,000.
Tours to Djoudj and the Langue de Barbarie cost more, so share with other travellers.
There are ATMs on the island and in Sor.
On a budget, allow around €25 to €35 a day.
Safety
Staying safe in Saint-Louis
Saint-Louis is relaxed and generally safe. Keep your valuables with you on buses and sept-places, where things can go missing from luggage.
Guet N'Dar is crowded and poor, with sanitation problems. Visit by day, keep valuables hidden and ask before taking photos of people.
Walk in groups at night and take taxis across the bridge.
The sea off the Langue de Barbarie has strong currents, so don't swim at unsupervised beaches.
The UK advises taking particular care in remote areas near the Mauritania border.
Dress modestly, especially away from the tourist areas.
Day trips from Saint-Louis
Saint-Louis is the base for two of Senegal's best bird reserves and the beaches of the Langue de Barbarie.
Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary
Pelicans, flamingos and huge bird colonies, best November to April.
Langue de Barbarie National Park
Lagoons, seabirds and beaches south of town.
Guet N'Dar
The busy fishing quarter.
Lompoul desert
Orange sand dunes between Saint-Louis and Dakar, with desert camps.
What's on
What's on in Saint-Louis
Saint-Louis's calendar is built around the jazz festival and the Fanals parade.
Usually late May or early June
Saint-Louis International Jazz Festival
Saint-Louis
A week of jazz across the town, one of Africa's best-known music festivals.
4 April
Independence Day
Nationwide
Public holiday.
Between Christmas and New Year
Les Fanals
Saint-Louis
Lantern parade unique to Saint-Louis.
About November to April
Djoudj bird season
Djoudj
Migrating birds gather in huge numbers.
When to go to Saint-Louis
Saint-Louis is hot and dry for most of the year, with highs of 30°C to 34°C. November to April is the best time, with birds at Djoudj and cooler evenings. The short rainy season runs from about July to September.
Jan
Cool evenings; Djoudj birds
Feb
Dry; birds
Mar
Dry and hot
Apr
Last birds at Djoudj
May
Jazz festival (usually)
Jun
Hot; jazz festival some years
Jul
Rains begin
Aug
Rainy
Sep
Humid
Oct
Hottest month
Nov
Birds return
Dec
Fanals parade
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets:
quiet
busy
peak
Average daily highs from weather2travel's Saint-Louis climate data. Crowd levels are our rough guide.
How much does Saint-Louis cost per day?
Pick a style and a number of nights for a rough total, per person, in euros.
Estimates in euros, converted from CFA francs. Sleeping is based on auberge prices, since Hostelworld has no listings here.
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- Beds—
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- Getting around—
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Saint-Louis FAQs
Prices and timetables change. Check before you travel.
How do I get from Dakar to Saint-Louis?
By sept-place from the Gare des Baux Maraîchers, about CFA 5,000 a seat, or by bus. There is no passenger train.
When is the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival?
Usually in late May or early June, for about a week. Check the dates for the current year.
When is the best time to visit Djoudj?
From about November to April, when migrating birds gather. Go with a guided tour.
Are there hostels in Saint-Louis?
Hostelworld has no listings right now. Auberges on the island have dorm beds from about CFA 6,000.
Did Gustave Eiffel design the Faidherbe Bridge?
No, despite the popular story. The current bridge dates from the 1890s.
Is Saint-Louis safe?
Yes, it's relaxed. Watch your valuables on transport, visit Guet N'Dar by day and walk in groups at night.
How many days do you need in Saint-Louis?
Two or three nights for the island, Guet N'Dar and a bird reserve.
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