Analakely
Daytime sightseeingThe lower town with the market, Avenue de l'Indépendance and the old station.
Madagascar city guide
Antananarivo Travel Guide
Antananarivo, or Tana, is Madagascar's chaotic, hilly capital, where wooden houses and church spires tumble down steep slopes to rice paddies below. Most travellers pass through, but a day or two brings the royal Rova, a buzzing market, lemurs just outside the city and your first taste of Malagasy food.
1
Hostels in the city
8.0
Average, from 272 reviews
About 1,280 m
Altitude of the city
MGA 40,000–60,000
Taxi from the airport
8.0
Madagascar Underground's rating, from 211 reviews
Antananarivo at a glance
Antananarivo sits on a ridge of hills in the central highlands, at about 1,280 m, which keeps it mild all year. The name means "city of the thousand", after the thousand soldiers said to have guarded it when the Merina kings made it their capital in the 17th century.
On the highest hill stands the Rova, the royal palace complex of the Merina kingdom. Below it, the Haute Ville (upper town) has narrow streets, churches, colonial houses and viewpoints, while the Basse Ville (lower town) centres on Analakely, the busy commercial heart, with the market, Avenue de l'Indépendance and the old railway station.
Between the hills are Lake Anosy, with its jacaranda trees, and rice paddies that still reach into the city.
Tana is crowded, polluted and hectic, with heavy traffic and visible poverty, and it needs care, especially after dark. But it's also full of character, with good food, markets and a lively music scene.
It's also where most trips begin and end. The international airport is here, and buses, drivers and flights connect to the rest of the island.
One or two nights is enough for most travellers, before heading east to Andasibe, west to Morondava or south on the RN7.
Where to stay in Antananarivo
Stay in Isoraka or the Haute Ville for character, restaurants and calmer streets, or near Ivato if you have an early flight. Analakely is for daytime sightseeing.
Haute Ville and the Rova
Views and historyThe upper town with the royal palace, churches and old houses.
Isoraka
Restaurants and guesthousesCalmer area with restaurants and budget stays.
Ivato
Early flightsAirport area with hotels, about 15 km north.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Things to do
Palaces, markets and lemurs
The Rova, the royal palace complex on the highest hill, is the city's landmark. The main palace, Manjakamiadana, was badly damaged by fire in 1995 and has been restored. The site has royal tombs, churches and the best views over the city. Guides usually expect a tip.
Andafiavaratra Palace, the former residence of the prime minister, now a museum, is just below the Rova, with royal artefacts and history.
The Haute Ville is good for walking, with old wooden houses, churches, Lake Anosy below and viewpoints over the city.
Analakely Market, in the lower town, is a crowded maze of stalls selling fruit, vegetables, spices, clothes and household goods. Keep your valuables hidden.
Lemurs' Park, about 22 km west of the city, is a small sanctuary where you can see several species of lemur roaming free, with a guide included in the entry of about MGA 70,000.
Ambohimanga, about 20 km north, is a UNESCO-listed royal hill, the spiritual home of the Merina kingdom, with a wooden palace and old stone gates.
Tsimbazaza, the city's zoo and botanical garden, has lemurs and native plants.
The Digue craft market, on the road to the airport, is the place for souvenirs: woodcarvings, embroidery, raffia and vanilla.
Free things
Antananarivo for free (or nearly)
Walk the Haute Ville's streets for views, churches and old houses, best in the morning.
Stroll around Lake Anosy, especially when the jacarandas bloom in October and November.
Browse Analakely market and Avenue de l'Indépendance for the city's buzz.
Watch the sunset over the city from the hills near the Rova.
The Digue craft market is free to browse, and bargaining is expected.
Food and drink
Romazava, mofo gasy and THB
Tana is a great place to try Malagasy food. Hotely, small local restaurants, serve rice with laoka (a side dish) for a couple of euros. Try romazava, a broth of zebu and greens, or ravitoto, pounded cassava leaves with pork.
In the morning, street stalls sell mofo gasy, rice-flour cakes, with sweet coffee.
Zebu steak is cheap and good, and the French influence means bakeries, pastries and bistros.
Restaurants in Isoraka and the Haute Ville serve Malagasy, French and international food, with meals around €5 to €12.
THB (Three Horses Beer) is the national lager, and rhum arrangé, fruit or vanilla-infused rum, is a must.
Don't drink the tap water. Bottled water is cheap.
Nightlife
Live music, bars and rhum arrangé
Tana has the most varied nightlife in Madagascar, with bars, live music venues and clubs, mainly in the city centre and around Isoraka.
Malagasy music, from salegy to jazz, is played live in bars and cabarets, especially at weekends.
Restaurants and bars in Isoraka are popular with travellers.
Don't walk at night. The UK advises against walking alone in city centres or poorly lit areas after dark. Use pre-booked taxis or hotel transport.
Getting around
Getting to and around Antananarivo
Ivato International Airport is about 15 km north of the city centre. A taxi costs around MGA 40,000 to MGA 60,000, and takes half an hour at quiet times but over an hour in traffic. Shared airport shuttles are cheaper.
In the city, taxis don't have meters, so agree the fare before you get in. A short ride costs around MGA 5,000. Taxi-be, the numbered minibuses, cost about MGA 600 but are crowded and hard to navigate.
Cotisse Transport runs scheduled buses from its terminal to Morondava, Toamasina, Mahajanga and other towns. Taxi-brousses leave from separate stations for each region, but the UK advises avoiding them.
Domestic flights from Ivato connect to Nosy Be, Morondava, Toliara and other towns.
Many travellers hire a car with a driver from Tana for their trip.
Traffic is heavy, so allow plenty of time to reach the airport.
Costs
What Antananarivo costs
Tana is affordable. Hostelworld lists one hostel, Madagascar Underground, with dorm beds from about US$12 and private rooms from about US$10.
A hotely meal costs a couple of euros, and a restaurant meal around €5 to €12.
Taxis around town cost from about MGA 5,000, and the airport taxi MGA 40,000 to MGA 60,000.
Lemurs' Park costs about MGA 70,000, including a guide, and the Andafiavaratra Palace museum is cheap.
ATMs are common, though many accept only Visa and have low limits. Banks give better exchange rates than the airport.
On a budget, allow around €25 to €40 a day.
Safety
Staying safe in Antananarivo
Antananarivo needs care. The UK says robberies and thefts are common, with foreigners targeted by pickpockets and muggers. Keep valuables out of sight, especially in Analakely and other crowded areas.
Don't walk alone after dark. Use pre-booked taxis or hotel transport at night, and keep car doors locked and windows closed.
Significant protests happened in Tana in late 2025. Avoid political gatherings and demonstrations, and expect road closures.
Carry your passport, as police carry out random ID checks and may not accept copies. Don't photograph security personnel.
Stray dogs are common; avoid them and get treatment quickly after any bite, as rabies is present.
Drink bottled water.
Day trips from Antananarivo
From Tana, you can see lemurs, royal hills and craft markets, and head out on the classic routes east and south.
Lemurs' Park
Free-roaming lemurs in a small sanctuary, with a guide.
Ambohimanga
UNESCO royal hill with a wooden palace and stone gates.
Andasibe-Mantadia
Rainforest and the singing indri lemur.
Antsirabe
Highland spa town at the start of the RN7.
What's on
What's on in Antananarivo
Tana's calendar includes Independence Day celebrations and the famadihana season in the surrounding highlands.
29 March
Martyrs' Day
Nationwide
Public holiday.
26 June
Independence Day
Nationwide
Parades and fireworks across the city.
About July to September
Famadihana season
Highlands around Tana
Family ceremonies; attend only if invited.
October and November
Jacaranda season
Lake Anosy
Purple blossom around the lake.
Hostels
Hostels in Antananarivo
Antananarivo has one hostel on Hostelworld, close to the centre, with a bar and kitchen. Guesthouses in Isoraka are the alternative.
When to go to Antananarivo
Antananarivo is mild all year thanks to its altitude, with highs of 20°C to 26°C. June to August is cool and dry, with cold nights. December to March is warm and very wet.
Jan
Very wet; cyclone risk
Feb
Very wet
Mar
Rains easing
Apr
Dry season begins
May
Dry and pleasant
Jun
Cool; Independence Day
Jul
Cool; famadihana season
Aug
Peak season
Sep
Warm and dry
Oct
Jacarandas bloom
Nov
Rains begin
Dec
Wet; holidays
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets:
quiet
busy
peak
Average daily highs from weather2travel's Antananarivo climate data. Crowd levels are our rough guide.
How much does Antananarivo cost per day?
Pick a style and a number of nights for a rough total, per person, in euros.
Estimates in euros, converted from ariary and US dollar prices. Beds are based on Hostelworld prices in October 2026.
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Antananarivo FAQs
Prices and timetables change. Check before you travel.
How do I get from Ivato Airport to Antananarivo?
By taxi, about MGA 40,000 to MGA 60,000, or by shared shuttle. The airport is about 15 km north, and traffic can make it an hour or more.
Is Antananarivo safe?
Take care. Pickpocketing and muggings are common, so keep valuables hidden, don't walk at night and use pre-booked taxis. Avoid protests.
Where should I stay in Antananarivo?
Isoraka or the Haute Ville, for restaurants, character and calmer streets. Ivato is handy for early flights.
Can I see lemurs near Antananarivo?
Yes, at Lemurs' Park, about an hour west, for about MGA 70,000 with a guide. Andasibe, 3 to 4 hours east, has wild indri.
How many days do you need in Antananarivo?
One or two days for the Rova, the Haute Ville, the market and Lemurs' Park or Ambohimanga.
How do I get from Antananarivo to Morondava?
By Cotisse bus, 9 to 12 hours, by car with driver, or by domestic flight.
What is the Rova?
The royal palace complex of the Merina kingdom, on the city's highest hill. The main palace was badly damaged by fire in 1995 and has been restored.
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