Speyside
DivingThe village and dive shops.
Village guide
Things to do in Speyside
A village on Tobago's north-east tip and the island's best dive base: drift dives over huge brain coral, manta rays, glass-bottom boats to the Angel Reef, and the seabird sanctuary on Little Tobago.
1
Seabird sanctuary offshore
3–4
Days
Tobago's dive coast
Speyside is a small fishing village on Tobago's north-east coast, facing the Atlantic. The waters off it, where the Guiana Current sweeps past, are rich in nutrients and fish, and have some of the best diving in the southern Caribbean.
The reefs around Goat Island and Little Tobago include Kelleston Drain, home to one of the largest brain corals in the region, and manta rays are sometimes seen. Little Tobago, a short boat ride offshore, is a sanctuary for seabirds such as red-billed tropicbirds.
Next door is Charlotteville, a fishing village on Man of War Bay with a beach and hiking trails. Give Speyside three or four days.
Where to base yourself
Speyside for the dive shops; Charlotteville, over the hill, for a quieter village and beach.
Charlotteville
Quiet, beachA village on Man of War Bay.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Things to do
Things to do in Speyside
Dive the drift dives off Speyside, including Kelleston Drain, the Japanese Gardens and the sites around Little Tobago; the currents can be strong, so dive with local operators. Learn to dive on calm sites.
Take a glass-bottom boat to Angel Reef, snorkel, and land on Little Tobago to walk to the seabird viewpoints.
Hike in the Main Ridge Forest Reserve on the Gilpin Trace, and walk to Pirate's Bay and Flagstaff Hill from Charlotteville.
Free things
And what it costs nothing to do
The beaches at Speyside and Charlotteville are free, and so is the walk to Pirate's Bay and Flagstaff Hill.
Watching the fishing boats come in costs nothing.
Diving, boats and Main Ridge guides charge.
Food and drink
Eating and drinking
Small restaurants serve fresh fish, curry crab and Creole food for €8 to €20. Charlotteville has beach shacks with cheaper meals.
Try fried flying fish and bake.
A 10 to 15 per cent tip is usual in restaurants; check the bill first, as some add a service charge.
Nightlife
Going out
Speyside and Charlotteville are quiet, with a few local bars.
Divers go to bed early.
A beer costs €2 to €4.
Getting around
Getting around
Speyside is about 1.5 hours from Crown Point by car along the windward coast road, or across the island via Roxborough. Buses and route taxis run from Scarborough, but are slow.
A hire car is the easiest way to explore. Charlotteville is 15 minutes over the hill.
Costs
What Speyside costs
Guesthouse rooms start at around €35 to €70 a night. Meals cost €8 to €20.
A two-tank dive costs about €90 to €130, a glass-bottom boat trip about €25 to €40, and an Open Water course about €400 to €500.
The currency is the Trinidad and Tobago dollar (TT$); prices here are converted to euros at roughly TT to €1. There are few ATMs; bring cash.
Safety
Safety and scams
Speyside is safe and relaxed. Currents are strong on the Atlantic side, so dive and snorkel with local guides and follow their briefings.
The roads are winding; drive slowly.
Tap water is generally safe, but many people drink bottled water, especially after heavy rain. In an emergency, call 999 for the police, 990 for the fire service or 811 for an ambulance.
Worth the trip
Reefs, birds and the forest.
Castara
Fishing village.
What's on
What is on while you are there
Seasons and festivals.
July and August
Tobago Heritage Festival
Tobago villages
Performances and traditional food.
January to May
Dry season
Speyside
Best weather.
Late June
Fisherman's Fete
Charlotteville
The fishermen's celebration.
When to go
Diving is good all year. January to May is the dry season; visibility can drop in the wet season when rivers on the South American mainland flood. Tobago lies south of the main hurricane belt.
Jan
Dry
Feb
Dry
Mar
Dry
Apr
Easter
May
Rains start
Jun
Wet
Jul
Heritage Festival
Aug
Heritage Festival
Sep
Wet
Oct
Wettest
Nov
Wet
Dec
Holidays
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets:
quiet
busy
peak
Average highs, rounded. Warm all year.
What your trip will cost
Per night, for one person, based on Speyside prices.
Treat these as a guide. Diving costs extra.
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- Beds—
- Food and drink—
- Getting around—
- Doing things—
Speyside questions
The ones we get asked most.
Is Speyside good for diving?
Yes, it has some of Tobago's best dive sites.
Can beginners dive there?
Yes, on calmer sites with local operators.
What is on Little Tobago?
A seabird sanctuary, reached by boat.
How do I get to Speyside?
By car, about 1.5 hours from Crown Point.
Are there ATMs?
Few; bring cash.
How many days do I need?
Three to four.
When is the best time to visit?
January to May.
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