Cruz Bay
Ferry, nightlifeThe main town.
Island guide
Things to do in St John
The smallest and wildest of the US Virgin Islands: around 60 per cent national park, with Trunk Bay's underwater snorkelling trail, turtles at Maho Bay, hiking trails to petroglyphs and sugar mill ruins, and the bars of Cruz Bay.
60%
National park
3–4
Days
An island that is mostly park
St John lies 20 minutes by ferry from St Thomas. Around 60 per cent of the island, and much of the sea around it, is Virgin Islands National Park, created in 1956 on land donated by Laurance Rockefeller. That has kept its north coast a run of undeveloped bays with white sand and coral reefs.
Cruz Bay, where the ferries land, is the main town, with food trucks, bars, restaurants and shops. On the other side of the island, Coral Bay is smaller and even more laid-back. Most of the rest is forest, crossed by hiking trails past the ruins of sugar plantations.
Accommodation is expensive, but the Cinnamon Bay campground offers a cheaper way to stay. Give St John three or four days.
Where to base yourself
Cruz Bay for the ferry, food and nightlife; Cinnamon Bay for camping; Coral Bay for quiet.
Cinnamon Bay
Camping, beachThe national park campground.
Coral Bay
QuietThe east side of the island.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Things to do
Things to do on St John
Snorkel the marked underwater trail at Trunk Bay, swim with sea turtles at Maho Bay, and snorkel around Waterlemon Cay from Leinster Bay. Spend days at Cinnamon Bay, Hawksnest and Salt Pond Bay.
Hike the Reef Bay trail through the forest to Taíno petroglyphs and a sugar mill ruin, the Ram Head trail to a clifftop at the island's southern tip, and the Lind Point trail to Honeymoon Beach.
Visit the Annaberg sugar plantation ruins, and spend an evening in Cruz Bay after the day-trippers have left.
Free things
And what it costs nothing to do
The national park is free to enter, and so are almost all of its beaches and trails. Trunk Bay charges a small amenity fee.
The Annaberg ruins and the views from the North Shore Road cost nothing.
Boat trips, gear rental and the campground charge.
Food and drink
Eating and drinking
Cruz Bay's food trucks serve full plates for €10 to €17, and pates and johnny cakes cost €3 to €6. Restaurant mains cost €25 to €45.
Try fish and fungi, and a painkiller cocktail.
Supermarket prices are high, as almost everything is imported. Tipping works as in the US: 15 to 20 per cent in restaurants and bars, on every round.
Nightlife
Going out
Cruz Bay is the liveliest place in the territory after dark, especially once the last ferry has taken the day-trippers back. Bars fill with people who live and work on the island.
Coral Bay has a few laid-back bars.
A beer costs €4 to €7 and a cocktail €9 to €14, plus tips.
Getting around
Getting around
Passenger ferries run from Red Hook on St Thomas to Cruz Bay roughly hourly and take about 20 minutes; car barges also cross. There is no airport.
Safari taxis run to the north shore beaches at fixed per-person fares. Hire a jeep to explore, especially for Coral Bay and the south; book early in high season. Driving is on the left.
Costs
What St John costs
St John is expensive. Rooms start at around €90 to €180 a night; the Cinnamon Bay campground is the budget option. Food truck meals cost €10 to €17.
The ferry costs about €7 each way, the Trunk Bay fee a few euros, jeep hire about €80 to €120 a day, and a snorkel trip about €80 to €120.
The currency is the US dollar; prices here are converted to euros.
Safety
Safety and scams
St John has very little crime, but car break-ins at beaches and trailheads happen; leave nothing in the car.
On hikes, carry plenty of water and start early, as the trails are hot. Respect turtles and coral: do not touch or chase them, and use reef-safe sunscreen.
Much of the water comes from desalination or rain cisterns, so many people drink bottled or filtered water. In an emergency, call 911.
Worth the trip
Beaches, trails and the BVI.
St Thomas
Charlotte Amalie and Magens Bay.
What's on
What is on while you are there
Festivals and holidays.
June to early July
St John Festival
Cruz Bay
Parade and food fair around 4 July.
3 July
Emancipation Day
Territory-wide
Marks the end of slavery in 1848.
December to April
Dry season
St John
Best weather.
When to go
December to April is the dry, busy season. Hurricane season runs from June to November, peaking in September, when some businesses close. The St John Festival peaks around 4 July.
Jan
Dry, busy
Feb
Driest
Mar
Dry
Apr
Dry
May
Shoulder
Jun
St John Festival
Jul
St John Festival
Aug
Hot
Sep
Highest risk
Oct
Quiet
Nov
Reopening
Dec
Holidays
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets:
quiet
busy
peak
Average highs, rounded. Warm all year.
What your trip will cost
Per night, for one person, based on St John prices.
Treat these as a guide. Add 15 to 20 per cent tipping to food and drink.
—
- Beds—
- Food and drink—
- Getting around—
- Doing things—
St John questions
The ones we get asked most.
How do I get to St John?
By ferry from Red Hook on St Thomas, about 20 minutes.
Is the national park free?
Yes, apart from a small fee at Trunk Bay.
Where can I see turtles?
At Maho Bay, in the shallows.
Is there budget accommodation?
The Cinnamon Bay campground.
Do I need a car?
Safari taxis cover the main beaches; a jeep helps for the rest.
How many days do I need?
Three to four.
When is the best time to visit?
December to April.
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