Charlotte Amalie
History, foodThe capital and harbour.

The busiest of the US Virgin Islands: the Danish-built harbour town of Charlotte Amalie, Magens Bay and Coki Beach, views from Mountain Top, bars in Frenchtown and Red Hook, and ferries to St John and the British Virgin Islands.
St Thomas is the most developed of the US Virgin Islands and the one most visitors arrive on, through the airport or the cruise port. Its capital, Charlotte Amalie, climbs steep hills above one of the Caribbean's finest natural harbours, with Danish colonial warehouses, stone steps and red-roofed houses from the time the islands belonged to Denmark, before the US bought them in 1917.
The island is hilly and green, with beaches on its north and east coasts. Magens Bay is the best known, a sheltered curve of sand and calm water. Red Hook, on the east end, is where the ferries leave for St John and the British Virgin Islands.
St Thomas is busy on cruise days and quieter in the evenings. Give it two or three days, and pair it with St John.
Charlotte Amalie and Frenchtown for history and food; Red Hook and the East End for beaches and the St John ferry.
The capital and harbour.
West of the harbour.
The east end, for St John.
Sapphire and Lindquist beaches.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 1 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Walk Charlotte Amalie's Main Street and alleys, climb the 99 Steps, and see Fort Christian, the oldest building in the territory, and Emancipation Garden. Drive up to Mountain Top or along Skyline Drive for views over the harbour and the islands.
Spend days at Magens Bay, Coki Beach (good snorkelling), Lindquist Beach and Sapphire Beach. Take the short ferry from Crown Bay to Water Island, the territory's quiet fourth island.
Take the ferry from Red Hook to St John's national park, or a day trip to the British Virgin Islands, such as Jost Van Dyke; you need a passport for the BVI.
Walking Charlotte Amalie, the 99 Steps and Emancipation Garden is free. Most beaches are public and free, including Coki, Lindquist (with a small parking fee) and Brewers Bay.
The views from Skyline Drive cost nothing.
Magens Bay, Coral World and boat trips charge.
Try johnny cakes and pates (savoury turnovers) from stands for €3 to €6, and fish and fungi, the local dish of fish with cornmeal and okra. Food trucks serve full plates for €10 to €17, and restaurants €25 to €45 a main.
Frenchtown and Red Hook have the best concentration of restaurants.
The local drink is the painkiller, a rum cocktail with pineapple, orange and coconut. Tipping works as in the US: 15 to 20 per cent in restaurants and bars, on every round.
Red Hook has bars by the ferry dock, busy in the evenings with island workers and visitors. Frenchtown has restaurants and bars in Charlotte Amalie, quieter when no cruise ships are in.
A beer costs €4 to €7 and a cocktail €9 to €14, plus tips.
Open containers are legal in public, unlike most of the US.
Cyril E. King Airport is about 10 minutes from Charlotte Amalie. Safari taxis (open trucks with benches) run set routes at fixed per-person fares; regular taxis charge set rates, so agree the fare first.
Driving is on the left, in left-hand-drive American cars, on steep, winding roads. Ferries to St John leave Red Hook roughly hourly and take about 20 minutes; ferries to the BVI leave from Red Hook and Charlotte Amalie.
St Croix is a short flight or seaplane away, with some ferries at weekends.
Guesthouse rooms start at around €50 to €130 a night; there are few dorms. Food truck meals cost €10 to €17.
The St John ferry costs about €7 each way, Magens Bay entry a few euros, and a BVI day trip €80 to €150.
The currency is the US dollar; prices here are converted to euros. US cards and phone plans work normally.
Visitor areas are generally safe, but St Thomas has a higher violent crime rate than the US mainland, mostly away from tourist areas. Avoid unlit parts of Charlotte Amalie at night, take taxis after dark, and never leave anything in a parked car at beaches or viewpoints.
Currents can be strong off headlands, and many beaches have no lifeguards.
Much of the water comes from desalination or rain cisterns, so many people drink bottled or filtered water. In an emergency, call 911.
Islands near and far.

National park beaches and trails.

Danish towns and reefs.
Carnival and holidays.
Parades, calypso and food fairs.
Marks the end of slavery in 1848.
The 1917 transfer from Denmark.
The highest-rated places to stay in St Thomas, live from Hostelworld. Prices and availability are live on each property page.
December to April is the dry, busy season. Hurricane season runs from June to November, peaking in September, when some businesses close. Carnival fills April and May.
Average highs, rounded. Warm all year.
Per night, for one person, based on St Thomas prices.
Treat these as a guide. Add 15 to 20 per cent tipping to food and drink.
The ones we get asked most.
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