City centre
Market and waterfrontThe market, harbour and shops.

Apia is Samoa's small, easy-going capital on the north coast of Upolu. Eat a cheap plate at the market, snorkel Palolo Deep from the shore, climb to Robert Louis Stevenson's grave above town, and use it as a base for waterfalls, cave pools and the beach fales of the south coast.
Apia is Samoa's capital and only real town, spread along a harbour on the north coast of Upolu. It's home to the government, the main market, the churches with the biggest choirs, and most of the country's shops, banks and ATMs.
It's not a big city: the centre is a waterfront road, a clock tower, a cathedral, the market and a few blocks of shops and cafés. Life is relaxed, and Sunday is quiet.
Most travellers spend a day or two here, on arrival, before the ferry to Savai'i, or to stock up on cash before the beaches. It's also the best base for the sights of northern Upolu: Robert Louis Stevenson's house at Vailima, the Papase'ea Sliding Rocks and Piula Cave Pool.
The south coast beach fales are about an hour away across the island.
Stay in the centre for the market and waterfront, or in the hills towards Vailima for cooler nights. Hostelworld has no listings in Apia right now.
The market, harbour and shops.
Hills above Apia, with Mount Vaea.
Marine reserve near the centre.
Freshwater cave pool east of Apia.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum at Vailima is the Scottish writer's restored colonial house in the hills above Apia, where he spent his last years.
Climb Mount Vaea behind the house to his grave, a steep walk through rainforest with views over Apia.
Browse the main market, Maketi Fou, for fruit, cheap cooked food and crafts, and the fish market early in the morning.
Snorkel Palolo Deep Marine Reserve, a deep blue hole in the reef that you can swim to from the shore near the centre, at high tide.
Slide down the Papase'ea Sliding Rocks, natural rock slides into pools, a short drive inland.
Swim in Piula Cave Pool, a clear freshwater pool in a cave below a church, on the coast east of Apia.
Visit the Samoa Cultural Village in the centre to see tattooing, carving and cooking demonstrations.
Go to church on Sunday morning to hear the singing; dress modestly.
The market and the waterfront are free.
Mount Vaea is free to climb.
Sunday church is free and the singing is excellent.
Palolo Deep, the Sliding Rocks and Piula Cave Pool charge small entry fees.
The market is the cheapest place to eat, with full plates of fish, chicken, taro and palusami (taro leaves in coconut cream) for a few tala.
The fish market is busiest early in the morning.
Apia also has cafés and restaurants with international food, the best range in Samoa.
Vailima, the local beer, costs WS$6 to WS$10.
Apia has a handful of bars and clubs, busiest on Friday nights. It's the only nightlife in Samoa.
Fiafia nights, with Samoan dancing and fire knife performances, are held weekly at some hotels.
Drinking in public is illegal outside bars and restaurants, and the drinking age is 21.
Faleolo International Airport is on the west of Upolu, about 40 km from Apia. Airport buses and taxis meet flights; agree taxi fares first.
Local buses, painted and loud, leave from the bus stations near the markets for villages all over Upolu. They're very cheap, but they leave when full and there are few on Sundays.
Taxis are cheap and unmetered. Agree the fare first.
To explore, hire a car with a temporary Samoan licence. Drive on the left, and avoid driving at night.
The ferry to Savai'i leaves from Mulifanua, near the airport.
Apia is affordable. Hostelworld has no listings right now, so budget travellers use guesthouses and budget hotels.
Market plates cost a few tala.
Buses are very cheap, and taxis are cheap if you agree the fare.
Apia has most of the country's ATMs, so get cash here before the beaches.
Allow around WS$120 to WS$200 a day.
Apia is safe, with low crime. Petty theft is uncommon, but keep valuables in your room's safe.
Stray dogs are common. Keep your distance, especially walking at night.
Dress modestly away from the beach. Swimwear is for beaches, streams and waterfalls.
Drinking in public is illegal outside bars and restaurants. Same-sex sexual activity is illegal.
Roads are poorly lit, so avoid driving at night.
In an emergency, call 994 for an ambulance and 995 for the police.
From Apia, you can reach waterfalls, cave pools and the south coast beaches.
Natural rock slides into pools.
Freshwater pool in a cave.
Beach fales and To Sua. Covered in the Upolu South Coast hub.
The bigger, quieter island. Covered in the Savai'i hub.
The Teuila Festival in September is the biggest week of the year.
Dance, fire knife competitions, choirs and flower shows.
Marking independence in 1962.
Children dress in white and lead church services.
Apia is hot all year, with highs from 29°C to 30°C. May to October is the drier season and the best time, with the Teuila Festival in September. November to April is wetter, with cyclone risk.
Average daily highs from weather2travel's Apia climate data. Crowd levels are our rough guide.
Pick a style and a number of nights for a rough total. Per day, for one person, in Samoan tala.
Estimates, based on guesthouse prices. Car hire sits outside these figures.
Prices and timetables change. Check before you travel.
Compare Apia hostels: live prices, real reviews and free cancellation on most bookings. Then meet the people already there in the app.