Things to do in Asunción

The mother of cities

Asunción was founded in 1537, and Spanish expeditions set out from here to found other cities across the region, which is why it is called the mother of cities. Today it is a relaxed, leafy capital on the Paraguay river, with the Chaco stretching away on the far bank. Its old centre has grand 19th-century buildings, some beautifully kept and others faded, and the city is full of trees that flower purple and yellow in spring.

Few travellers come here, and that is part of the appeal. Nothing is set up for tourists, prices are low, and people are curious and welcoming. You will hear Guaraní as much as Spanish, and see people everywhere carrying a thermos of tereré, the cold mate that is the national habit.

Give Asunción two or three days: one for the historic centre and the river, one for the markets and the museums, and one for a day out to the lake town of Areguá or the churches and villages of the Circuito de Oro. It is also the starting point for trips into the Chaco. Summer is fiercely hot, so plan your days around the afternoon heat.