Old Town
First-timersAround Council Square: the Black Church, the lanes, restaurants and most hostels.

Transylvania's hub: a Saxon square under forested mountains, a Hollywood-style sign on the hill above, and brown bears that sometimes walk into the outskirts.
Brasov was founded by Saxon merchants in the Middle Ages and its old town still looks the part — a large square of pastel merchants' houses, a Gothic church blackened by fire in 1689, and walls and bastions along the edge, with the forested slope of Tampa mountain rising directly behind.
The BRASOV sign on the hill, in Hollywood-style letters, is visible from most of the town and reached by cable car or a steep path.
It is the natural base for Transylvania, and that includes Bran Castle, thirty minutes away, which is marketed very heavily as Dracula's castle. The honest version is that Vlad Tepes has at best a thin connection to it, and Bram Stoker never came to Romania at all.
Romania has the largest brown bear population in Europe outside Russia, and bears regularly wander into the edges of Brasov, particularly the Racadau district and the Tampa trails. This is not a curiosity; it is something to take seriously.
Two or three days, using it as a base.
A compact Saxon centre under a mountain, and a newer town below.
Around Council Square: the Black Church, the lanes, restaurants and most hostels.
The old Romanian quarter south-west of the walls, below the mountains, with steep lanes and guesthouses.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 5 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
The Black Church, about 15 lei (€3), is the largest Gothic church in south-eastern Europe, named for the blackening its walls took in the great fire of 1689. Inside is a collection of Anatolian carpets brought back by Saxon merchants, the largest of its kind in Europe.
Take the cable car up Tampa, about 25 lei (€5) return, to the BRASOV sign and the view over the red roofs and the valley. The walk up is about an hour.
Find Rope Street, Strada Sforii, one of the narrowest streets in Europe at around 1.1 metres at its tightest.
Council Square is the heart of the old town and free to sit in.
Then use Brasov as a base. Bran Castle, marketed as Dracula's, is thirty minutes out at about 60 lei (€12) — go with realistic expectations about the Dracula connection. Rasnov fortress is closer and more interesting. And the Libearty bear sanctuary at Zarnesti houses bears rescued from captivity and is the responsible way to see them.
Council Square, the old town lanes and Rope Street are all free.
The walls and bastions along the edge of the old town are free to walk, with the White and Black Towers giving views over the rooftops.
The path up Tampa to the sign is free and takes about an hour — though see the safety section about bears on this trail.
Schei, the old Romanian quarter, is free to wander and holds the first Romanian-language school and the St Nicholas church.
The promenade along the foot of Tampa, just outside the walls, is free and the easiest walk in the town.
Transylvanian food, which is heavier and more Hungarian- and Saxon-influenced than the south.
A main is 35 to 60 lei (€7–12). Around Council Square it runs higher; a street back is better.
Mici, sarmale and ciorba all feature, alongside Transylvanian dishes with more smoked meat and cheese.
Balmos, polenta cooked with sheep's cheese and cream, is the mountain dish and very filling.
Kurtoskalacs — the spiral chimney cake — is genuinely from this region, sold hot from street stalls for about 15 lei (€3).
A beer is 10 to 18 lei (€2–3.50), and the region's plum brandy, tuica or the stronger palinca, appears at most meals.
A handful of bars and pubs around the old town, busy with visitors and students, and a few later venues.
A beer is 10 to 18 lei (€2–3.50) and cocktails 25 to 45 lei (€5–9).
The streets off Council Square hold most of it, and it is easy to move between places in a small area.
Brasov is a base for the mountains more than a night-out destination, and a lot of visitors are up early for Bran, Rasnov or a hike.
In winter, Poiana Brasov ski resort above the town has an après scene of its own.
The old town is compact and walkable. Buses cost about 3 lei (€0.60) and connect the station, which is a bus ride from the centre.
Trains from Bucharest take two and a half to three hours for about 50 lei (€10). Sighisoara is about two and a half hours and Sibiu about three.
For Bran and Rasnov, local buses leave from the Autogara 2 bus station, cheap and frequent.
Poiana Brasov ski resort is twenty minutes above the town by bus.
Driving in Romania is genuinely dangerous — one of the highest road fatality rates in the EU — and mountain roads compound it. Buses and trains are the safer choice.
Cheap. Dorms are 45 to 100 lei (€9–20), a main 35 to 60 lei (€7–12), and a beer 10 to 18 lei (€2–3.50).
A day is €28 to €50.
You pay in lei. Cards work in the town but carry cash for buses to Bran and smaller places.
The old town is free, and the paid sites — the Black Church, the cable car, Bran, Rasnov — are a few euros each.
Bran Castle at about 60 lei (€12) is the most expensive entry and the most crowded, and Rasnov fortress nearby is cheaper and arguably better.
Brasov is a safe town and crime against visitors is low. The serious risk here is bears, and it is not exaggerated.
Romania has the largest brown bear population in Europe outside Russia, and bears regularly come into the outskirts of Brasov — the Racadau district in particular — and onto the Tampa mountain trails, drawn by bins and food. Attacks and deaths occur in Romania.
Never feed a bear, never approach one for a photograph, and never leave food or rubbish out. On trails, walk in a group, make noise so you do not surprise one, and avoid hiking at dawn and dusk when they are most active. If you meet one, back away slowly without running or turning your back.
The Libearty sanctuary at Zarnesti is the responsible way to see bears. Roadside "bear watching" where people feed them from cars is harmful and dangerous.
Driving on mountain roads is hazardous. Emergency number is 112.
A castle with a legend, a hilltop fortress and a sanctuary for rescued bears.

Marketed hard as Dracula's castle. Vlad Tepes has at best a thin link to it and Bram Stoker never visited Romania. A handsome castle, very busy.

A peasant citadel on a hill above the town, with the valley below. Cheaper and less crowded than Bran.

A large forest sanctuary for bears rescued from cages and captivity. Book the timed visit.

An inhabited medieval citadel and Vlad Tepes's actual birthplace.

A neo-Renaissance royal castle in a mountain resort, and one of the most elaborate in Europe.
A Christmas market under the mountain and a ski season above it.
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A good scene in and around the old town, and the best base in Transylvania. Live from Hostelworld.
May to October for the mountains. Winter for skiing at Poiana Brasov.
Average highs. Brasov sits in a mountain basin and is noticeably cooler than Bucharest in summer and colder in winter. Bears are most active from spring to late autumn.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros — you will pay in lei, at roughly 5 to the euro.
Shown in euros for comparison; you pay in lei. The doing line covers the cable car and a castle.
The ones we get asked most.
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