Promenade
First-timersThe waterfront strip: restaurants, bars, the ferry terminal and most of the beds. Busy and central.

The Albanian Riviera's main town, looking across at Corfu, with a UNESCO ruined city down the coast and a spring the colour of antifreeze inland.
Sarandë itself is not the attraction. It is a horseshoe bay lined with apartment blocks built fast and without much planning during the boom years, and the promenade is pleasant rather than beautiful.
What makes it worth basing here is everything within an hour. Butrint, twenty minutes south, is a Greek, Roman, Venetian and Ottoman city in a lagoon and the best archaeological site in the country. The Blue Eye spring is forty minutes inland. Ksamil's islets and turquoise water are fifteen minutes away. Corfu is a thirty-minute ferry.
In July and August it is full, loud and priced accordingly. In May, June, September and October it is a cheap and comfortable base for the south. Two or three days works.
The town runs along one bay. Promenade for convenience, hills for quiet and views.
The waterfront strip: restaurants, bars, the ferry terminal and most of the beds. Busy and central.
The streets climbing behind the front, cheaper, quieter and with the view down over the water.
Fifteen minutes south: the islets, turquoise water and the best swimming in Albania. Rammed in August.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 6 top-rated hostels. Map © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors.
Butrint is the reason to be here. A city continuously occupied from the Greek period through Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman rule, abandoned to a lagoon and now UNESCO-listed: a theatre, a baptistery with mosaics, a Venetian castle and forest paths between them. Entry is 1,000 lek, about €10, and the bus from Sarandë takes twenty minutes.
The Blue Eye is a spring welling up from a depth divers have not reached, forty minutes inland, and the colour is genuinely startling. It gets crowded from mid-morning.
Ksamil's four small islets are wadeable in shallow turquoise water, which is why every photograph of Albania features them and why they are overwhelmed in August.
In town, Lëkurësi castle above the bay has the sunset view and a restaurant, and the ruined synagogue and basilica are in the middle of the promenade.
The promenade and the town beach cost nothing, and the evening walk along the front is what the whole town does between six and nine.
Lëkurësi castle is free to walk up to, and the view over the bay and across to Corfu at sunset is the best free thing here.
The ruins of the fifth-century synagogue and basilica sit open in the middle of town.
Most of the coast north towards Himarë has free beaches and coves, and the ones that charge for a sunbed will not charge you to swim.
Seafood, and it is cheaper than anywhere across the water in Greece. Grilled fish and calamari run €8 to €15, and mussels from the Butrint lagoon are farmed a few kilometres away and cost very little.
The promenade restaurants charge a premium for the view; one street back, the same food is a third less.
Greek influence is strong this close to the border — souvlaki, feta and olive oil throughout — and a full meal with wine is €8 to €14.
Coffee on the front is about a euro, and the Albanian habit of sitting over one for two hours applies here more than anywhere.
In July and August this is a proper resort nightlife: beach clubs, bars along the promenade, and music until three, with a crowd of Albanians, Kosovars and Italians rather than western backpackers.
It is loud and it is seasonal. By October most of it has closed and the town belongs to the people who live in it.
Beer is €1.50 to €3 and cocktails €4 to €7, cheaper than the Greek islands opposite by some distance.
Ksamil has its own beach bars in season, and the quieter alternative is a long dinner on a terrace above the bay.
The town is walkable along the front and steep behind it.
Local buses run to Ksamil and Butrint every half hour in season for about €1.50, leaving from the centre, and take fifteen and twenty-five minutes respectively.
Furgons go north up the Riviera to Himarë in about ninety minutes and to Vlorë in three hours, and inland to Gjirokastër in an hour.
The Corfu ferry takes thirty minutes on the fast boat and about ninety on the slow one, from around €20 each way, and you need your passport. Booking ahead matters in August.
Cheap outside August and merely reasonable in it. Dorms are €10 to €22 depending sharply on the month, a meal is €8 to €14, and a beer is €1.50 to €3.
A day is €28 to €45 in season.
Butrint is about €10, the Blue Eye a couple of euros plus transport, and the Corfu ferry €20 each way. Ksamil sunbeds are €5 to €15 a pair in August and free to walk past.
Euros are taken more widely here than elsewhere in Albania, usually at a rate that favours the restaurant.
Sarandë is safe, and the summer crowds bring the usual opportunistic theft on packed beaches rather than anything worse.
The sea is generally calm here, which lulls people — but boat traffic in the bay is heavy in August and swimming outside marked areas puts you in it.
Ksamil's islets are wadeable but the channels between them drop suddenly and the current picks up in wind.
The coast road north to Himarë is spectacular and has no barriers for long stretches, which matters if you hire a scooter. Emergency number is 112.
Everything worth doing in southern Albania is within an hour and a half.

Greek, Roman, Venetian and Ottoman city in a lagoon, UNESCO-listed and the best archaeological site in Albania.
The season is the event, and August is when the diaspora comes home.
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A seasonal scene along the promenade and the streets above it, with more opening each year. Live from Hostelworld.
May, June, September and October. August is full and the town triples in price.
Average highs. The sea is warmest in September, and the Riviera season runs roughly from May to mid-October.
Pick how you travel. Per person per night, in euros, in season.
August runs well above these figures. May, June and late September are roughly half of it.
The ones we get asked most.
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