Valparaíso
City guide

Things to do in Valparaíso

A port city spilling down dozens of hills to the Pacific, with colourful houses, murals on every wall and old funiculars creaking up the slopes. Chaotic, poetic and unlike anywhere else in Chile.

26
Hostels in the city
8.2
Average, from 10,653 reviews
2–3
Days to do it properly

The jewel of the Pacific

Valparaíso, Valpo to everyone, was once the most important port on the Pacific coast of South America, a stop for ships rounding Cape Horn before the Panama Canal opened in 1914. The wealth of that era built mansions, churches and the funiculars, called ascensores, that still carry people up the steep hills from the port below.

The city's historic quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its hills, especially Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción, are a maze of stairways, alleys and houses painted every colour, covered in some of the best street art in South America. Pablo Neruda lived here, and his house, La Sebastiana, looks out over the bay.

Valpo is gritty as well as beautiful: graffiti, stray dogs and some rough streets are part of the picture, and street theft is a real problem. Give it two or three days, stay on the tourist hills, and walk as much as you can. Viña del Mar, the polished beach city next door, is a short ride away.

Where to base yourself

Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción are the best bases for most travellers: safe by Valpo standards, beautiful and full of cafés. Cerro Bellavista is quieter, near La Sebastiana.

Cerro Alegre

First visits, cafés, views

Colourful streets, murals and the best choice of hostels and cafés.

Cerro Concepción

Views, atmosphere

Next to Cerro Alegre, with viewpoints, restaurants and stairways down to the port.

Cerro Bellavista

Quieter, Neruda

Home to La Sebastiana and the open-air mural museum. Quieter, with fewer hostels.

Viña del Mar

Beaches, calm

The beach city next door, cleaner and calmer, linked by train.

Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 9 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.

Things to do

Things to do in Valparaíso

Walk the hills. Start on Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre, where the stairways and alleys are lined with murals, and follow the Paseo Gervasoni and Paseo Yugoslavo for views over the bay. Ride at least one ascensor, such as the Reina Victoria or El Peral, for a few cents each way.

Visit La Sebastiana, Neruda's tall, narrow house on Cerro Bellavista, full of his collections and with a view he loved. The Museo a Cielo Abierto, an open-air gallery of murals on the same hill, is free. Take a boat trip around the harbour to see the port and sea lions, and walk along the waterfront to the Plaza Sotomayor.

If you visit at New Year, Valpo hosts one of the biggest fireworks displays in South America over the bay. And a day in Viña del Mar, with its beaches, gardens and the Fonck Museum's moai, makes a contrast.

Free things

And what it costs nothing to do

Valparaíso is one of the best cities in South America for free exploring. The street art on the hills is a gallery that changes all the time, and the Museo a Cielo Abierto on Cerro Bellavista is an open-air museum of murals.

Free walking tours leave from the Plaza Sotomayor daily and are an excellent way to understand the city's history and art. The viewpoints, or miradores, like Paseo Gervasoni and Paseo 21 de Mayo, are free and spectacular at sunset.

The waterfront, the old squares and the busy port streets cost nothing to wander, though keep your belongings close.

Food and drink

Eating and drinking

Seafood is the thing to eat in Valpo. Empanadas de mariscos, filled with shellfish and cheese, are sold all over the city, and the fish markets and caletas, small fishing coves, serve fresh fish and seafood stews.

Chorrillana, a mountain of chips topped with beef, onions and fried eggs, is Valpo's signature late-night dish, made for sharing. The restaurants on Cerro Alegre and Concepción have views and higher prices, while the old bars and picadas down in the port serve cheaper local food.

Try a pisco sour with a view over the bay, and visit one of the classic old bars, some of which have been pouring drinks for more than a century.

Nightlife

Going out

Valpo has a lively, bohemian nightlife. Bars on Cerro Alegre and Concepción are good for a drink with a view, while the area around Calle Errázuriz and Avenida Brasil, down in the flat part of the city, has bars and clubs that go on late.

Live music is everywhere, from cueca and folk in old bars to indie bands and electronic nights, and the university population keeps it young.

Take taxis or apps at night rather than walking between hills and the port, as some streets are not safe after dark.

Getting around

Getting around

Valparaíso is best explored on foot, with ascensores to save your legs. Colectivos, shared taxis on fixed routes, climb the hills for a small fare, and apps are easy too.

The Merval metro train runs along the coast to Viña del Mar and beyond, quick and cheap. Buses from Santiago take around an hour and a half and run very frequently, arriving at the bus terminal on Avenida Pedro Montt.

From Santiago's airport, direct buses to Valparaíso run several times a day.

Costs

What Valparaíso costs

Valparaíso is a little cheaper than Santiago. Dorm beds run from around €12 to €20, with the best hostels on Cerro Alegre and Concepción.

Ascensores cost a few cents, empanadas a few euros, and a menú del día around €6 to €10. Restaurants with views on the tourist hills charge more.

Cards are accepted in most places, but carry some small cash for ascensores, colectivos and street food.

Safety

Safety and scams

Valparaíso needs care. Street theft and phone snatching are common, and some areas, including parts of the port, the area around the bus terminal and quieter hills away from the tourist zone, are not safe, especially after dark.

Stay on Cerro Alegre, Concepción and Bellavista, carry as little as possible, and keep your phone out of sight on the street. Do not wander up unfamiliar stairways or alleys alone, particularly at night, and use taxis or apps after dark.

Wildfires have hit the hills around Valparaíso and Viña del Mar in recent summers, so follow local advice if you visit in the hot months. In an emergency, call 133 for police or 131 for an ambulance.

Worth leaving the city for

Beaches, wine and Neruda's favourite house, all close by.

Viña del Mar

Viña del Mar

About 15 minutes · Merval train or bus

Beaches, gardens and a moai at the Fonck Museum.

Casablanca Valley

Casablanca Valley

About 45 minutes · Tour or car

Wineries known for crisp white wines.

Santiago

Santiago

About 1.5 hours · Bus

The capital, with museums and the Andes.

What's on

What is on while you are there

From New Year fireworks to live music most nights.

When to go

Valparaíso has a mild coastal climate. Spring and autumn are lovely; summer is busy and warm with morning fog; winter is cool and sometimes rainy. New Year is spectacular but packed.

23°
Jan
Summer, busy
23°
Feb
Viña del Mar festival
22°
Mar
Warm, fewer crowds
20°
Apr
Mild
18°
May
Cool, some rain
16°
Jun
Winter, rainiest month
16°
Jul
Cool and quiet
16°
Aug
Cool
17°
Sep
Fiestas Patrias
18°
Oct
Spring
20°
Nov
Warm, a good month
22°
Dec
New Year fireworks. Book early
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets: quiet busy peak

Average highs, rounded. Mornings are often foggy on the coast.

What your trip will cost

Per night, for one person, based on Valparaíso prices.

Treat these as a guide. New Year costs much more.

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  • Beds—
  • Food and drink—
  • Getting around—
  • Doing things—

Valparaíso questions

The ones we get asked most.

Is Valparaíso safe?
With care. Street theft is common. Stay on Cerro Alegre, Concepción and Bellavista, carry little, keep your phone away and use taxis or apps at night.
How do I get from Santiago to Valparaíso?
By bus, around an hour and a half, with very frequent departures.
How many days do you need in Valparaíso?
Two to three, to walk the hills, ride the ascensores, visit La Sebastiana and spend a day in Viña del Mar.
Where should I stay in Valparaíso?
Cerro Alegre or Cerro Concepción, with the best hostels, cafés and views.
What are the ascensores?
Historic funiculars that carry people up the hills, some over a century old. Rides cost a few cents.
Is Valparaíso or Viña del Mar better?
Valparaíso has the character, art and history; Viña del Mar has the beaches and is calmer. They are 15 minutes apart, so do both.
What should I eat in Valparaíso?
Chorrillana to share, empanadas de mariscos and fresh fish at the caletas.

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