Cusco
City guide

Things to do in Cusco

The old Inca capital at 3,400 metres: colonial churches on Inca walls, the Sacred Valley on the doorstep and the gateway to Machu Picchu. The busiest backpacker city in South America.

109
Hostels in the city
8.6
Average, from 49,214 reviews
5+
Days with Machu Picchu

The navel of the Inca world

Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire, which at its height stretched from Ecuador to Chile. The Spanish built their churches and mansions on top of the Inca temples and palaces, and the result is a city where colonial balconies rest on perfectly fitted Inca stone walls. The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and almost every trip to Peru passes through it.

At around 3,400 metres, the altitude hits most people on arrival. Take the first day or two slowly before any hiking. Once you have adjusted, the city is a joy to explore: the Plaza de Armas, the cathedral and the Qorikancha temple, the steep streets of San Blas, the San Pedro market and the ruins of Sacsayhuamán above the city.

Give Cusco and the area at least five days: two for the city, one or two for the Sacred Valley and one or two for Machu Picchu, plus more for a trek such as the Inca Trail or Salkantay, or a day at Rainbow Mountain. Book Machu Picchu tickets, and Inca Trail permits, well before you arrive.

Where to base yourself

Stay in or near the historic centre. San Blas is hilly but charming, San Pedro is cheap and local, and the streets around the Plaza de Armas are convenient but busy.

Historic centre

Convenient, sights

The streets around the Plaza de Armas, with most sights, restaurants and clubs. Busy and noisy.

San Blas

Charming, cafés, views

The artisans' quarter uphill from the Plaza, with steep streets, workshops and quieter nights.

San Pedro

Budget, local, market

The area around the San Pedro market and the train station, cheaper and more local.

Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 12 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.

Things to do

Things to do in Cusco

Start in the Plaza de Armas, with the cathedral and the Iglesia de la Compañía. The Qorikancha, the Inca Temple of the Sun, has the finest Inca stonework in the city, with a Dominican convent built on top. Walk the narrow Hatun Rumiyoc street to see the twelve-angled stone, and climb to San Blas for workshops, cafés and views.

Above the city, Sacsayhuamán is a fortress of huge zigzag walls, and the nearby sites of Q'enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay can be walked in a half day. The boleto turístico, a combined ticket valid for several days, covers these and many Sacred Valley sites, so buy it early.

The Sacred Valley has the Inca terraces and market at Pisac, the fortress town of Ollantaytambo, the circular terraces of Moray and the salt pans of Maras. Machu Picchu is reached by train from Ollantaytambo or Cusco to Aguas Calientes, then a bus or a steep walk up. Rainbow Mountain and Humantay Lake are popular day trips, both at very high altitude.

Free things

And what it costs nothing to do

Walking the historic centre costs nothing: the Plaza de Armas, the Inca walls along Hatun Rumiyoc and Loreto, and the streets of San Blas are the best free sights in the city. Free walking tours leave from the Plaza de Armas daily; tip the guide.

The San Pedro market is free to explore, and the viewpoint at San Cristóbal church, above the Plaza, has great views over the rooftops.

Many of the churches charge entry, and the main Inca sites need the boleto turístico.

Food and drink

Eating and drinking

Cusco has some of the best food in the Andes. Try lomo saltado, a stir-fry of beef, tomato and chips, rocoto relleno, a stuffed spicy pepper, and cuy, roast guinea pig, a highland speciality. Chicharrón, fried pork, is a Sunday favourite.

The San Pedro market has cheap set lunches, juices blended to order and stalls of bread and cheese. A menú in a local restaurant costs a few euros, while the centre has excellent restaurants for a splurge.

Coca tea helps with the altitude, and chicha morada, a sweet purple corn drink, is everywhere. Try a pisco sour once.

Nightlife

Going out

Cusco has the liveliest backpacker nightlife in Peru. Clubs around the Plaza de Armas hand out free drink vouchers and stay open late, and party hostels run their own bars and nights.

San Blas has quieter bars with live music, and craft beer bars are scattered around the centre.

Go easy on alcohol in your first days at altitude, never leave a drink unattended and take an official taxi or app home.

Getting around

Getting around

The historic centre is walkable, though steep. Taxis and ride apps are cheap for longer trips.

Alejandro Velasco Astete airport is close to the city, around 15 to 20 minutes from the centre, with flights to Lima, Arequipa and other cities. Buses go to Puno in around seven hours and to Arequipa in around ten.

Colectivos to the Sacred Valley leave from the city. For Machu Picchu, trains run from Ollantaytambo, or from near Cusco, to Aguas Calientes, and are expensive. The budget route is a van to Hidroeléctrica and a walk of around two to three hours along the tracks.

Costs

What Cusco costs

Cusco itself is good value. Dorm beds start around €8, with well-rated hostels from €10 to €18. A menú costs €3 to €5.

Machu Picchu is where the money goes. A standard foreign adult ticket costs around €40, the bus up and down from Aguas Calientes around €20, and the train €60 to €120 return. Treks such as the Inca Trail and Salkantay cost hundreds more. The boleto turístico for the city and valley sites is extra.

Use ATMs inside banks, and carry soles in cash for markets, colectivos and small shops.

Safety

Safety and scams

Cusco is generally safe, but petty theft is common: watch your bag in markets, restaurants and on night buses. Use official taxis or apps, especially at night.

Altitude is the main risk. Most people feel breathless, tired or have headaches at first. Rest for a day or two, drink water and coca tea, avoid alcohol, and do not start a trek on arrival. If symptoms get worse, go down and see a doctor.

Book treks only with licensed operators; the Inca Trail legally requires one. Protests and road blockades have closed routes to Machu Picchu at short notice before, so leave buffer days. In an emergency, call 105 for police or 106 for an ambulance.

Worth leaving the city for

The Sacred Valley, the lost city and the high mountains.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

About 3 to 4 hours each way · Train from Ollantaytambo or near Cusco, then bus

The Inca citadel in the cloud forest. Book tickets ahead.

Sacred Valley

Sacred Valley

About 1 hour · Colectivo or tour

Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray and the Maras salt pans.

Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)

Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)

Full day · Tour

Striped mountains at over 5,000 metres. Acclimatise first.

Humantay Lake

Humantay Lake

Full day · Tour

A turquoise lake below a glacier, at around 4,200 metres.

What's on

What is on while you are there

Inca festivals, processions and the busiest week of the year.

When to go

May to September is the dry season, with sunny days and freezing nights, the best for treks and Machu Picchu. November to March is wet and green, and the Inca Trail closes every February.

19°
Jan
Wet season
19°
Feb
Wettest. Inca Trail closed
19°
Mar
Wet, green
20°
Apr
Drying out
20°
May
Dry, clear
19°
Jun
Dry. Inti Raymi
19°
Jul
Peak season
20°
Aug
Dry, busy
21°
Sep
Dry, quieter
21°
Oct
Rains begin
21°
Nov
Mixed
20°
Dec
Wet. Santurantikuy market
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets: quiet busy peak

Average highs, rounded. Nights drop close to freezing in winter.

What your trip will cost

Per night, for one person, based on Cusco prices.

Treat these as a guide. Machu Picchu, trains and treks cost extra.

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  • Beds—
  • Food and drink—
  • Getting around—
  • Doing things—

Cusco questions

The ones we get asked most.

How many days do you need in Cusco?
At least five: two for the city and acclimatising, one or two for the Sacred Valley, and one or two for Machu Picchu. Add four or five for a trek.
How far ahead should I book Machu Picchu?
Weeks or months ahead in high season, from the official platform. Inca Trail permits sell out four to six months ahead.
How bad is the altitude in Cusco?
Most people feel it. Rest for a day or two, drink water and coca tea, and do not trek straight away.
What is the boleto turístico?
A combined ticket for many sites in and around Cusco, including Sacsayhuamán and Sacred Valley ruins, valid for several days.
How do I get to Machu Picchu cheaply?
Take a van to Hidroeléctrica and walk along the tracks to Aguas Calientes, around two to three hours, instead of the train.
Where should I stay in Cusco?
Near the Plaza de Armas for convenience, San Blas for charm and views, or San Pedro to save money.
When is the best time to visit Cusco?
May to September, the dry season. June and July are the busiest.

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