Centro
Schools, cafesAround Parque Centroamérica.
City guide
Things to do in Xela
Quetzaltenango, known as Xela: Guatemala's second city, high in the western highlands, with cheaper Spanish schools than Antigua, a neoclassical centre, volcano hikes, hot springs, and a three-day trek to Lake Atitlán.
2,330 m
Above sea level
3+
Days
The highland city
Quetzaltenango, almost always called Xela, from its K'iche' name Xelajú, is Guatemala's second city, at around 2,330 metres in the western highlands. It is a working city with a large Maya population, a university and far fewer tourists than Antigua.
Its centre, around the Parque Centroamérica, has grand neoclassical buildings from the coffee boom, and it is one of the best places in Central America to learn Spanish, with schools that are cheaper than Antigua's and fewer English speakers around to fall back on.
Xela is a base for hiking: Santa María volcano for sunrise views of the active Santiaguito, the crater lake of Laguna Chicabal, and the Fuentes Georginas hot springs in the cloud forest. The three-day trek from Xela to Lake Atitlán, run by community organisations, is one of the best walks in the country. Give it three days, or weeks with Spanish school.
Where to base yourself
The centre around Parque Centroamérica for schools, cafes and bars.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Things to do
Things to do in Xela
Study Spanish at one of the city's many schools, with a homestay. Walk the Parque Centroamérica, the cathedral and the Pasaje Enríquez, and visit the market in Zona 3.
Hike Santa María volcano before dawn to watch Santiaguito erupt below, walk to the sacred crater lake of Laguna Chicabal, and soak in the hot pools of Fuentes Georginas in the cloud forest.
Take the three-day trek to Lake Atitlán with a community-run guide group, and visit the Monday market in San Francisco El Alto or the hot springs at Almolonga.
Free things
And what it costs nothing to do
Walking the centre, the Parque Centroamérica and the markets costs nothing.
The view from the Cerro El Baúl park is free.
Hot springs, volcano guides and Laguna Chicabal charge small fees.
Food and drink
Eating and drinking
Xela is cheap. Comedores and markets serve set lunches for €2 to €4, and street stalls sell tostadas, tamales and atol.
Try the local chocolate, hot chocolate and sweet breads, and craft beer from the city's small breweries.
A 10 per cent tip is customary in restaurants, and is sometimes already added to the bill.
Nightlife
Going out
With its university and language students, Xela has a lively, low-key nightlife of bars, live music and salsa nights around the centre.
It is cold at night, so evenings are spent indoors.
Gallo costs €1.50 to €3.
Getting around
Getting around
Shuttles run from Antigua in about four hours, and from Lake Atitlán in about two and a half hours. First-class buses and chicken buses run to Guatemala City.
The centre is walkable, and local buses and taxis cover the rest. Chicken buses go to Almolonga, Zunil and San Francisco El Alto.
Shuttles also run to the Mexican border.
Costs
What Xela costs
Xela is one of the cheapest cities in Guatemala. Dorm beds start at around €6 to €12 a night. Set lunches cost €2 to €4.
A week of Spanish school with homestay costs about €120 to €200, the Xela to Atitlán trek about €90 to €120, and Fuentes Georginas a few euros.
Carry cash for markets and buses.
Safety
Safety and scams
Xela is generally fine for travellers. Avoid walking alone late at night, and keep phones out of sight on buses.
Hike volcanoes with a guide, as trails are remote, and bring warm layers: it can be close to freezing at night and on the summits.
Do not drink the tap water; bottled and purified water is cheap everywhere. In an emergency, call 110 for the police, or 1500 for PROATUR, the tourist assistance line.
Worth the trip
Volcanoes, springs and markets.
Santa María volcano
Views of Santiaguito.
Lake Atitlán
Walk to the lake.
What's on
What is on while you are there
Festivals and markets.
September
Feria de Independencia
Xela
The city's big fair.
March or April
Semana Santa
Xela
Processions in the centre.
When to go
November to April is the dry season, best for hiking, with cold nights. May to October brings afternoon rain.
Jan
Dry, cold nights
Feb
Dry
Mar
Dry
Apr
Semana Santa
May
Rains begin
Jun
Afternoon rain
Jul
Holidays
Aug
Rain
Sep
Wettest
Oct
Fiestas
Nov
Dry returns
Dec
Holidays
Bar height is temperature. Colour is how busy it gets:
quiet
busy
peak
Average highs, rounded. Cold nights at 2,330 metres.
What your trip will cost
Per night, for one person, based on Xela prices.
Treat these as a guide. Spanish school and treks cost extra.
—
- Beds—
- Food and drink—
- Getting around—
- Doing things—
Xela questions
The ones we get asked most.
Is Xela good for learning Spanish?
Yes. Schools are cheaper than Antigua's and there is less English around.
What does Xela mean?
It is short for Xelajú, the K'iche' name for Quetzaltenango.
Is Xela cold?
Days are mild, but nights can be close to freezing.
Can I walk from Xela to Lake Atitlán?
Yes, on a three-day guided trek.
How do I get to Xela?
By shuttle from Antigua or Lake Atitlán, or by bus.
Is Xela safe?
Generally, with normal city precautions.
When is the best time to visit?
November to April.
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