Ambatoloaka and Madirokely
Budget stays and nightlifeWest-coast beach villages with guesthouses, bars and dive centres.

Nosy Be is Madagascar's main beach island, off the north-west coast: white sand, warm turquoise water and a scent of ylang-ylang in the air. Hop by boat to the lemurs of Nosy Komba, snorkel the marine reserve at Nosy Tanikely and walk the sandbar at Nosy Iranja, then watch the sunset from Mont Passot.
Nosy Be, meaning "big island" in Malagasy, lies a few kilometres off Madagascar's north-west coast. It's about 20 km across, with volcanic hills, crater lakes, plantations of ylang-ylang, vanilla and sugar cane, and a coastline of beaches and coves.
It's Madagascar's most developed tourist destination, with resorts, restaurants and dive centres, but there are still simple guesthouses and quiet beaches.
Hell-Ville, or Andoany, is the main town and port, with a busy market, colonial buildings and the ferry to the mainland. Most travellers stay on the west coast, in Ambatoloaka and Madirokely, the beach villages with bars, restaurants and nightlife, or further north at Andilana, the island's best beach.
The real highlight is the sea and the smaller islands around Nosy Be. Boat trips go to Nosy Komba, with black lemurs and craft villages; Nosy Tanikely, a marine reserve with superb snorkelling; and Nosy Iranja, two islands linked by a long sandbar. Whale sharks visit the waters around the island in season, and humpback whales pass in the southern winter.
On the island itself, Lokobe National Park protects the last patch of original rainforest, with lemurs and chameleons, and Mont Passot is the place for sunset over the crater lakes.
Four or five nights is ideal for a few boat trips and some beach time.
Stay in Ambatoloaka or Madirokely for budget guesthouses, restaurants and nightlife, or at Andilana for the best beach. Hell-Ville is the port and market town.
West-coast beach villages with guesthouses, bars and dive centres.
Main town with the market, colonial buildings and the ferry.
Long white beach in the north of the island.
Island a short boat ride south-east, with black lemurs.
Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
Boat trips to the surrounding islands are the highlight, and many operators combine them into day trips.
Nosy Komba, a short boat ride south-east, is a forested island where black lemurs come close to visitors in the village of Ampangorinana. The villagers sell embroidery, carvings and vanilla.
Nosy Tanikely is a small, uninhabited marine reserve with excellent snorkelling: turtles, reef fish and coral just off the beach. Climb to the lighthouse for views.
Nosy Iranja, further south, is two islands linked by a long white sandbar at low tide, with turtles nesting on the beaches. It's a full-day trip and a postcard favourite.
Lokobe National Park, in the south-east of Nosy Be, protects the island's last primary rainforest. Guided walks find black lemurs, chameleons, frogs and snakes, and many trips arrive by pirogue (canoe).
Mont Passot, the highest point on the island, has views over the crater lakes and the sea, and is the classic spot for sunset.
Diving and snorkelling are excellent around the island, and whale sharks are often seen offshore in season.
In Hell-Ville, wander the market and colonial streets, and visit the huge sacred banyan tree, the Arbre Sacré, near Mahatsinjo.
The beaches are free. Walk the long sand at Andilana in the north, or the beach at Ambatoloaka.
Watch the sunset from the beach or Mont Passot, if you can get a lift.
Wander Hell-Ville's market and colonial streets.
Watch fishermen land their catch in the morning at Ambatoloaka.
Swim and snorkel off the beaches with your own mask.
Seafood is the star on Nosy Be: grilled fish, prawns, lobster, octopus and crab, often cooked in coconut sauce or with vanilla.
Zebu steak and Malagasy dishes like romazava are widely available, and Italian and French influences mean pizza, pasta and crêpes.
Hotely, local eateries in Hell-Ville and the villages, serve rice with a side dish for a couple of euros, much cheaper than the beach restaurants.
Try fresh fruit, such as mangoes, lychees and pineapples, and the local vanilla.
THB beer and rhum arrangé, rum infused with fruit, vanilla or spices, are the drinks. Drink bottled water.
Prices on Nosy Be are higher than on the mainland.
Nosy Be has the liveliest nightlife in northern Madagascar. Ambatoloaka and Madirokely have beach bars, restaurants and clubs that get busy at weekends, with salegy and coupé-décalé music.
The Donia Festival, a music festival with artists from across the Indian Ocean, is held on the island, usually in May or June.
Take a taxi at night rather than walking, especially on unlit roads and beaches.
Paying for sex is illegal in Madagascar, and offences involving minors are strictly prosecuted.
Fascene Airport, in the north-east of the island, has flights from Antananarivo, as well as international flights from Johannesburg, Addis Ababa, Réunion and seasonal flights from Europe. Change money before checking in when you leave, as there's no exchange counter airside.
From the mainland, speedboats run from Ankify to Hell-Ville in about 45 minutes, for about MGA 20,000. Car ferries are slower. Ankify is about an hour from Ambanja by taxi, on the road to Antsiranana (Diego Suarez).
The UK advises taking local advice or using an experienced operator around Ankify Port and Ambanja, as violent robberies have occurred.
On the island, taxis are the easiest way to get around; agree the fare before you set off. Tuk-tuks and scooters are available to rent, and shared taxi-brousses run between villages from about MGA 2,000.
Boat trips to the islands leave from Ambatoloaka, Hell-Ville and other beaches.
Nosy Be is more expensive than mainland Madagascar, and accommodation outside Hell-Ville can cost up to twice mainland prices. Hostelworld has no listings on the island right now, but simple guesthouses in Ambatoloaka start from about €25 for a double room.
Hotely meals cost a couple of euros, and beach restaurants around €8 to €15.
Boat trips to Nosy Komba and Nosy Tanikely are often combined, and Nosy Iranja is a full day. Prices depend on the operator and group size, so compare a few and check what's included.
Taxis are the main extra cost; shared taxi-brousses are much cheaper.
Cards are accepted in some hotels and restaurants, sometimes with a surcharge. ATMs are in Hell-Ville.
On a budget, allow around €35 to €55 a day, before boat trips.
Nosy Be is generally safe, but the UK says violent robberies and assaults have occurred, even in daytime, at isolated beaches on Nosy Be, and around Ankify Port and Ambanja on the mainland. Take local advice before visiting quiet beaches, don't walk alone on deserted stretches and keep valuables hidden.
At night, take taxis rather than walking, especially on unlit roads.
On boat trips, use reputable operators with life jackets, and check the weather.
Don't touch turtles or coral when snorkelling, and don't feed the lemurs on Nosy Komba.
Paying for sex is illegal in Madagascar, with prison sentences up to 10 years, and sexual offences involving minors are strictly prosecuted.
Malaria is present, so use repellent and a net. The cyclone season runs from November to April.
The islands around Nosy Be are the reason to come, and most are reached on day boat trips.
Black lemurs, a craft village and beaches.
Marine reserve with turtles and coral.
Two islands linked by a long sandbar.
Rainforest with black lemurs and chameleons.
Nosy Be's calendar includes the Donia music festival and the whale shark season.
Music festival with artists from Madagascar and the Indian Ocean islands.
Public holiday with parades.
Whale sharks are often seen offshore.
Nosy Be is hot all year, with highs of 29°C to 31°C and warm sea. May to November is the dry season and the best time to visit, with whale sharks often seen from about October. December to April is very wet, with cyclone risk.
Average daily highs from weather2travel's Nossi-be climate data. Crowd levels are our rough guide.
Pick a style and a number of nights for a rough total, per person, in euros.
Estimates in euros, converted from ariary. Sleeping is based on guesthouse prices, since Hostelworld has no listings on the island; doing includes a boat trip spread over a few days.
Prices and timetables change. Check before you travel.
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