Kota, shisa nyama and market Saturdays
Joburg eats meat, and the classic way to do it is shisa nyama. You choose your raw meat at a butchery counter, it's grilled over coals, and it comes with pap (stiff maize porridge) and chakalaka, a spicy vegetable relish. Chaf Pozi, at the foot of the Orlando Towers in Soweto, is the well-known place for it. Weekends get busy and loud, which is half the point.
The kota is the township's street food: a quarter loaf of white bread hollowed out and stuffed with chips, polony, atchar, cheese and often a sausage or an egg. It's cheap, enormous and sold from takeaways across Soweto and the inner city. On Vilakazi Street, Sakhumzi is the best-known sit-down spot for local dishes, and it's used to tour groups, so it's an easy first taste.
Markets are where the city's food scene shows off. Braamfontein's Saturday market brings together street food, coffee and craft beer in a crowd of students and young professionals, and Victoria Yards and the Rosebank Sunday market have food stalls too. If you're cooking at the hostel, Checkers, Pick n Pay and Woolworths supermarkets are everywhere, and a braai with your dorm mates is a very South African evening.
Joburg's mix of communities shows up on the plate. Fordsburg, around the Oriental Plaza, is the place for Indian food, curries and samoosas. Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene is the city's Chinatown; go by day and by Uber. For a calmer evening, 4th Avenue in Parkhurst is lined with restaurants and pavement tables, and the coffee in Maboneng and Braamfontein holds its own with any European city.
Eating out is cheap by European standards, especially if you stick to local food. Wine is good value, and South African craft beer is worth trying.