Lakeside
First-timersWalking distance to the temple, the lake and the market.

The last royal capital, in the hills around a lake, with the Temple of the Tooth, one of Buddhism's holiest sites, and the start of the most beautiful train ride in Asia.
Kandy was the capital of the last Sinhalese kingdom, which held out against European rule until 1815. Its Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, beside the lake, holds a tooth of the Buddha, and the whole sacred city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kandy sits in green hills at about five hundred metres, cooler than the coast.
It is also where the hill country train begins its climb to Nuwara Eliya and Ella. Two days is right.
Stay close to the lake and the temple for the sights, or in the guesthouses on the hills above it, along Rajapihilla Mawatha, for views and quiet. Peradeniya, by the botanic gardens, is greener and cheaper but needs a bus or tuk-tuk into town.
Walking distance to the temple, the lake and the market.
Guesthouses along Rajapihilla Mawatha, quiet with views over the town.
Green and cheaper, by the botanic gardens, a short bus ride from town.
Orange labels are neighbourhoods, dots are the 12 top-rated hostels. Map data from OpenStreetMap contributors.
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, beside the lake, is the reason to come. Go for one of the daily pujas, the ceremonies of drumming and offerings when the doors of the relic chamber open: at dawn, mid-morning and, most atmospheric, in the evening around half past six. The tooth itself is kept inside nested caskets and never shown. Foreigners pay LKR 2,000 (about €5.50). Wear white or modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees; shoes are left at the entrance.
Walk the three-kilometre loop around Kandy Lake, built by the last king in 1807, and watch a Kandyan dance performance: shows with drummers, dancers and fire-walking run every evening at around five in halls near the lake.
The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya, twenty minutes away, cover 60 hectares, with an avenue of royal palms, an orchid house and giant fig trees. The Ceylon Tea Museum, in an old factory in the hills, explains the island's tea before you see the estates.
The Knuckles range, a UNESCO-listed cloud-forest massif, is the best hiking near Kandy; go with a guide. Once the line reopens, the train to Ella through the tea country is one of Asia's great journeys.
The walk around Kandy Lake is free and best in the early morning, when monitor lizards and herons are out.
The central market, a two-storey covered hall of fruit, spices and fish, costs nothing to wander. The Kandy View Point above the town, sometimes called Arthur's Seat, gives the classic view over the lake and temple roofs for free.
The streets of the old town, with colonial shopfronts around the clock tower, are worth an hour, and you can watch worshippers bringing lotus flowers to the temple from outside without a ticket.
Kandy eats simply and cheaply. Lunch is rice and curry, often a self-service spread in workers' restaurants around the clock tower, for €2 to €3. In the afternoon, bakeries and short-eat counters sell rolls, patties and vadai, and many places serve hoppers in the evening.
Kottu is everywhere after dark. The town is a good place to try a proper cup of Ceylon tea, and the hill country's fruit, including mangosteen and rambutan in season, is sold at the market.
A meal is €2 to €6.
Kandy goes to bed early. Evenings start with a Kandyan dance show at five and the temple puja at half past six, and by ten the town is quiet.
There are a few hotel bars and some guesthouse rooftops with views over the lake, and that is about it. Kandy is the place to rest before the hill country, not to go out.
A beer is €2.50 to €4. Every full-moon day is a Poya holiday, when alcohol sales are banned and most bars close or serve only quietly; check the calendar before planning a night out.
Kandy is compact enough to walk between the lake, the temple, the market and the clock tower. Tuk-tuks cover the hills; agree the fare first or use PickMe.
Cyclone Ditwah badly damaged the railway around Kandy in late 2025. Trains to Colombo are due to return from October 2026, and the hill country line towards Nanu Oya and Ella is expected back by the end of 2026. Until then, buses and cars are the way: Colombo is three to four hours, Nuwara Eliya about three, Ella five to six. When the trains run again, reserved seats sell out, so book ahead.
Buses leave from the Goods Shed and clock tower bus stands for Dambulla and Sigiriya, about two and a half hours.
Kandy is cheap. Dorms start around €7 and a careful day is €18 to €28.
The Temple of the Tooth is LKR 2,000 (about €5.50) for foreigners, a dance show a few euros, and Peradeniya has a separate foreigner's ticket. A rice-and-curry lunch is €2 to €3 and a tuk-tuk across town €1 to €2.
The currency is the Sri Lankan rupee (LKR); prices here are euro equivalents. There are ATMs in the centre; carry cash for guesthouses and tuk-tuks.
Kandy is safe. Touts around the lake and the temple offer guiding or a lift to a spice garden or gem shop; a firm no is enough.
At the temple, cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes and hats, and never pose with your back to a Buddha statue, which is considered deeply disrespectful. Tattoos of the Buddha have led to visitors being refused entry, and in some cases deported, in Sri Lanka; keep them covered.
Monkeys around the lake and the botanic gardens grab food and bags. The lakeside path is quiet late at night.
Emergency: 119 police, 1990 ambulance (Suwa Seriya, free). Tourist Police: 1912.
Royal palms, tea history, cloud forest and the rock fortress, all within a few hours.

Cloud forest and ridge walks in a UNESCO-listed massif.

The rock fortress, best as a stop on the way north.
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